1933 Pickup worth

[PhoenixFear]

I'm not sure if I have asked this on here. I am trying to establish a price point for selling my 1933 pickup. I'm not in a hurry to sell and it doesn't cost me any money to keep it in the garage, but I don't think I will get to this project in the next 5 or 10+ more years. The last documented time it was really worked on was in 1967, it has sat in a garage since. It probably hasn't ran since the early 60s, rumored to have been in the family for 60+ years. However, it now is in non-op status from the CA DMV. It has historical plates. It has a clean title matching the frame numbers as a 1933 pickup.
Some quick points:
It was originally a 4-cylinder pickup but it has been converted to a V8 driveline. It has a 1933 V8 block and a 1939 transmission case used for setup. It needs complete restoration. It has boxing plates installed and it will need those addressed as well as the front horns fixed. The frame is just about rust free and straight otherwise. Stock wishbones, 1940 hydraulic brakes, Kelsey Hayes 17" wire rims. It is missing a radiator , front bumper and a seat as well. That is about all it is missing. I'm not sure if there is any other information needed for you guys to determine it. Thanks for your time.

[Mike B]

Which of the 3 pics is it's current condition?

[bobH]

I see that dual m/c on the firewall, and I'm instantly turned away. If it has good tin, I'd throw a wag of 3K, as that is what I was able to get for a similar 33 pu project. Not enough info for a real guess. JMO... and not a good one, at that.

[PhoenixFear]

I'll post more pictures this weekend, I thought I had more recent pictures. I'm in the process of putting the sheet metal back on. The pictures are out of order, the middle one is more close to recent. Here's a couple more photos:




I have the canopy top but took it down. I have the original pedal setup as well. If it doesn't end up being worth more than a couple thousand I'll just keep it in the garage for another 60 years.

[Mike B]

Originally Posted by PhoenixFear

I have the canopy top but took it down. I have the original pedal setup as well. If it doesn't end up being worth more than a couple thousand I'll just keep it in the garage for another 60 years.

Way more than 3K, get it together, note any rust issues you can, from "here" it looks solid.

[Charlie Stephens]

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Originally Posted by bobH

I see that dual m/c on the firewall, and I'm instantly turned away. If it has good tin, I'd throw a wag of 3K, as that is what I was able to get for a similar 33 pu project. Not enough info for a real guess. JMO... and not a good one, at that.

Is that a dual brake master cylinder or one master cylinder for the brakes and one for the clutch? If it is one for the clutch I envision all sorts of weird things going on.

Charlie Stephens

[55 dude]

that mc is for brake and clutch, original application is 1960 chevrolet truck !

[Flowmeister]

You will probably get a more realistic value by asking on the HAMB.
Too many on this forum will get hung up on the non originality of it and not see the good of what is there.
I see more than 3k for sure.

[my4dv8]

Come on guys , a few minor mods, and you say it's seriously devalued! I doubt the OP will sell it to you for cheap. A little effort on what appears a solid truck and you are ahead. This is assuming the drive train is still all Henry ford.though the boxing plates hint otherwise,a grinder could remove those 4k day and night.
We will be in San Diego in 6 or 7 weeks.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

If you were to get a seat, get a radiator, get a clean title, get it running and take care of all the little odds and ends just to make it a driveable roadworthy truck I would say $10k.
But you say you've had it forever and won't get around to it.
So if I were buying it I would want at least a $5k discount to do all that work...so $5k would be my guess.
There is one with a 4 banger on Chicago Craigslist for $5k.

[rockfla]

PhoenixFear, for my two cents.......as soon as I saw the first three pictures, I'd have lots of interest in it if I $5000 to $6000 to spend. I even have a friend in Jamul that could keep it till I could arrange to come get it!!!!

[hotrodA]

Wish that it was closer to me, we would be talking!
Mods are not an issue, relatively complete and solid are bonus points for me.
Looks like an early 60's mild rod effort.
Is that 8BA head laying in front off the engine that was in it?
Neat truck, what would it take to buy it?

[jimTN]

Take that firewall bending master cyl stuff off and correct it with proper clutch linkage and a pedal conversion kit for stock pedals to hyd brakes and you improve it a bunch. Depending on what ever other "mods" are there we cannot see, around 5K is tops for most f0lks. There are always those who have more money than sense and lust to butcher original stuff who will pay obscene amounts. Look at it like this, to put that truck on the road safely for a person that has no "stash" of parts already on hand would easily push 6K or more and then you have 11K stuck in it.

[jimTN]

Opps, forgot the radiator, that is another grand for a new one that will not overheat in traffic.

[Corn Fed]

If the sheetmetal is as good as it looks in the pictures, it's worth way more than $5K. Anyone who tells you less is either tring to buy it on the cheap for themselves or hasn't priced 32-34 PU rear fenders, boxes or doors lately. The modifications (except for the frame boxing) don't hurt the value. Like it or not, any new owner is most likely to modify it anyway so the newer parts might actually make it more appealing.

[Chris]

I have bought a few of these, my 33 is a lot like it. Anything less then 10K is a good buy

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Chris

I have bought a few of these, my 33 is a lot like it. Anything less then 10K is a good buy

I agree with Chris. The sheetmetal alone (if straight and no rust out) is worth $7000-8000.

[PhoenixFear]

I'm glad I asked here, I had thought about this for a while but was afraid of getting the "it's worth 50 bucks, take it or leave it". I have had a lot of lookie-loos stopping in front of my driveway to do that. Most of the reason why I left the front end off is so that people from the street cannot figure out what that pile of parts is.
I know this isn't a previous show queen and the firewall makes it look like a bondo buggy. The swinging pedals were installed but couldn't possibly have been hooked up due to the way it was mounted, a person would need clown shoes to reach the pedals.
I have an idea what the parts are worth individually from asking prices on here, Craigslist and the HAMB, most likely debatable but it is close to $10k all things considered. It is all steel, I understand the steel rear fenders are quite hard to find. That does not mean the whole truck could be worth that though.
I had the boxing plates installed to rectify a '60s garage build. I had to replace the front crossmember because the motor mounts had been cut out. At the time since there were no motor mounts boxing plates seemed like the right idea. They can easily be ground out, I did not have them welded near the frame numbers. It now has a stock crossmember back in it.
I'll get more pictures today and tomorrow, thank you all for your honest replies.

[Vanspeed]

In Michigan that truck would probably bring 8-10k. If people are buying those, in that condition, for 3k then the seller had no idea what it was or it's value.

[34pickup]

That looks like an excellent truck. Most of them are beat up. I think you would have no problem getting about 6k for it as it sits. I paid 3500 for a rusted out pos 15 years ago and wish I had held out and bought a much nicer one like yours. Just your doors are worth a thousand.