Water Pump Removal

[29Blue]

Searched for answer with no luck. About to remove water pump which has the replacement bolts instead of original studs. Will pump come out without moving radiator forward. 29 tudor. Thanks

[Russ/40]

I cant imagine that. Removing the stud/bolts will not totally eliminate the need to tilt the radiator forward, as the impeller needs to clear the head.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

I cant imagine that. Removing the stud/bolts will not totally eliminate the need to tilt the radiator forward, as the impeller needs to clear the head.

I have done many, countless pumps and in my opinion after doing several hundred and more the newfake bolts really don’t effect if the head clears or not as the pump needs to come out to clear the impeller even on the pivot the pump itself has already cleared the studs for that to happen. Some A’s have more clearance between radiator and fan than others . I agree that the hood should be removed of you need to pull the radiator forward .

If it has a4 blade that is a riveted I have posted this before but it is much less evasive to the car (electrical wiring and more) so I use a sawzall to cut the pump in half. A towel and air compressor blow gun can be used for quick cleanup.
Trust me, it works well, and my customers appreciate my charging less for doing it so quickly. You would be replacing the pump with a new one and new 2 blade fan so no big deal.

Larry Shepard

[29Blue]

Thanks Russ/40 that's what I thought but a post I read said nothing had to be loosened. I have never done this before so I will move rad forward.

[johnbuckley]

if it's a 4 blade fan "No ( unless you can unbolt the blades from the hub) " .If it's a 2 blade fan then there's a good chance that you will not need to remove the rad. But sometimes it is necessary just to tilt it a little ...Put some cardboard on the fins to protect them, be prepared to undo the rods and top hose and just tilt the rad a smidgin .

[Brentwood Bob]

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The cardboard also will protect your knuckles. The radiator fins are knife edge sharp.

[29Blue]

Thanks for replies , it's a original type 2 blade which I am changing to a 2 blade aluminum.

[jack99]

Invest in Les Andrews repair manual. It contains such great step by step information.

[29Blue]

Agree great book. I use mine whenever a repair or maintenance is necessary.

[hudson32700]

I just replaced my original 2 blade fan with a cast aluminum one. It cleared the radiator easily with cardboard in place to protect the fins. Mine has the fake studs so the pump removal was no problem. (1931 Tudor)

[chrs1961815]

I would take the hood off and take off the support rods which will allow you to tip the radiator. You don't have to take hood off if you are very careful btw.

[Bill G]

I recently changed to a HC head and had the hood, the hood rods and the upper radiator hose off. I took the water pump off and back on, both times with the head on the engine. In both cases, I did have to tip the radiator forward and also had to take the rock guard off to get the clearance. PS: I also used cardboard.

[Synchro909]

Over the years and several Model As, I have had water pumps in and out many times. I have not once had to move the radiator forward with a 2 blade fan or one of those plastic 5 blade jobs. The first thing I did was to replace the studs with bolts (decades ago).

[Bruce of MN]

I have one of these https://www.brattons.com/hood-prop-kit.html and it hold the hood up while I tilt the radiator forward to gain clearance.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I have one of these https://www.brattons.com/hood-prop-kit.html and it hold the hood up while I tilt the radiator forward to gain clearance.

You have to disengage the hood prop rods to tilt the radiator forward. You trust that situation to hold the hood while tillting the radiator forward?

I just dont understand how people can claim to not move the radiator and still take the pump out. I have 5/8" max, between the pump shaft and the radiator, the pump has to move forward 2 1/2" to clear the head. I realize you get some angle help, but not 2 1/2".

[Bruce of MN]

I unscrewed the adjuster nuts to the maximum, so the rods were always supported at both ends. That was enough to get the pump in and out.

[Ray64]

I just put a leak less pump on mine last week. Got the fake bolts on there and the whole thing came out with no problem. Going back on was another story, Had to take a very minimal amount off of impellers to put it back in .Some times people take a little off anyway to slow the water down to prevent over flow in the rad. Just my take on it and what worked for me. RAY

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Ray64

I just put a leak less pump on mine last week. Got the fake bolts on there and the whole thing came out with no problem. RAY

So, does your leak less water pump leak less than the one you that was leaking? That is kinda of a oximoron, isn't it? Even a leakless one sounds like it would still leak.

Sorry, self isolation is getting to me.

[Fred K OR]

It also may depend on the type of radiator you have. My radiator is a heavy duty one and the water pump nut up front if 1/8 inch from the radiator. But never had it overheat!

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Fred K OR

It also may depend on the type of radiator you have. My radiator is a heavy duty one and the water pump nut up front if 1/8 inch from the radiator. But never had it overheat!

Excellent point, I didn't think about how thick your core is. My Berg core is as big as would fit, not a lot extra room left. That explains a lot of differing experiences.