21 stud flathead

[slug]

How do I tell what year it might be? Thanks

[deuce lover]

Post a pic

[frnkeore]

If it has block off plates, in the front of the block, it would be very late '36, '37 or '38.

If it have LB stamped on the right front of the the intake surface, it will be '36 and have insert bearings but, not all are stamped and some are fraudulently stamped.

Are the heads aluminum and what are the marking on the them?

Where are the water pumps, block or heads?

Earlier that that, others will have to chime in.

If you supply a picture, make sure you get as much of the front of the engine, as possible.

[Tinker]

Easy way to site a motor on first glance is, three bolts down the center is a 21 bolt. 2 down the middle, 24 bolt

[frnkeore]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Easy way to site a motor on first glance is, three bolts down the center is a 24 bolt. 2 down the middle, 21 bolt

Another way is if it has 5 bottom bolts on the head, it's a 21 stud, if 8, it's 24.

[Tinker]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Other then that...

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by frnkeore

If it has 5 bottom blots, it's a 21 stud, if 8, it's 24.

Yep

[frnkeore]

Even better, here is a picture of a 21 stud head. It can also have a center water outlet and be 21 stud.

Look for those 5 bolts, The 24 stud, has 8, unevenly spaced (vertically) bolts.

[Mart]

You've gone off topic, guys. The OP already know it's a 21 studder.

Re the year, There are sites that spell it out what to look for. Someone will post a link.

I can't find the page I was thinking about but there is some info here https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114477

Mart.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by slug

How do I tell what year it might be? Thanks

Please put up some pictures that show engine/block in front, sides, heads, and back bell area. If you can't post them send them to someone here who can. I am a volunteer who can post your pics here. You can send to my Fordbarn email addy

[Willit Stop]

Here's a link to an old thread. My thanks to the original poster.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...5301&showall=1

[Kurt in NJ]

The earliest ones had nuts in the valley for the mains, no crankcase vent tube, then studs for mains, no vent tube, 35 started the vent tube, these were all Babbitt mains, then more or less in 36 some started to have insert mains, 37 the water pumps were moved to the block, some of the original parts books have pictures to show the difference

[lotsagas4u]

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...cs-85early.htm

[petehoovie]

Ford 1933 V8 Engine Shown (pumps in heads) 21 Stud





1946-48 (59A style) pictured above 24 Stud

[slug]

I think I have a 33 as the pet cocks are at an angle so not a 32 and there is no vent on the pan. The only thing are the heads have dates of 3-25-48 on the left one with also a casting or part number of 88-6050 R. The right one is 6-11-47 and 68-6049B. I was told when I bought it that it was a 33 but want to make sure when I list it I am being honest. The car is 47000 mile 32. It must be a factory type rebuilt in the late 40's or early 50's. Comments? Thanks for all the replies. John

[deuce_roadster]

33 and 34 blocks viewed from the front are different from the 35 and 36s because of the vent to the pan. The cavity on the passenger side of the block is more shallow due to the vent coming down to the pan. 33,34 equal depth.

[frnkeore]

Originally Posted by slug

I think I have a 33 as the pet cocks are at an angle so not a 32 and there is no vent on the pan. The only thing are the heads have dates of 3-25-48 on the left one with also a casting or part number of 88-6050 R. The right one is 6-11-47 and 68-6049B. I was told when I bought it that it was a 33 but want to make sure when I list it I am being honest. The car is 47000 mile 32. It must be a factory type rebuilt in the late 40's or early 50's. Comments? Thanks for all the replies. John

I think, if the 88 head has a 3 bolt flange, in the front of it and you look closer, the 88 will be a 68, like the other side.

My '37 block (block off plates) was a rebuild and had (I took them off) late casting date, 68 heads. The 68 heads are made for domed pistons. I had .040 over domes in mine so, if you can easily take the head off, make sure it has domed pistons or, the compression ratio, will be very low.

[DavidG]

Obviously the heads are post-production service parts and therefore aren't helpful in identifying the model year of the block except to suggest that when it was rebuilt it was equipped with domed-top pistons. With drain cock location you mention plus it being un
vented, all that is left is to distinguish it between a '33 and a '34, but depending on the extent of the rebuild, that may be almost impossible. I am assuming that it has cavities in the front face of the block book-ending the timing gear cover. If there are no cavities, in concert with the drain cock location you can rest assured that it is an early '33 block. Beyond that, the rebuilding process likely equipped the block with the '34+ valve guides, springs, and spring retainers and hardened exhaust valve seats were added to the block. If that's the likely situation and it has the cavities on the front face of the block, it can no longer be narrowed down between a other-than-early-'33 and a '34 block. As your stated intention is to sell it, just list it as a '33-'34 block with later heads and pistons. For 99.9% of the prospective buyers, those distinctions will be far more important than the disappearance of the means to distinguish it specifically as one or the other.