Spring removal and Columbia installation

[Kube]

Originally Posted by dean333

Kube, I’m sure you meant removing the RIGHT axle housing.

I don’t know what you consider “easy”, especially if it’s up on jack stands. Adjusting the gear mesh pattern is an all day job….taking it apart at least three times to get the proper shim thickness. I can’t imagine doing that on your back as well as everything else. Everyone I’ve talked to says it’s an eight hour process.

I did misstate. Actually, both housings must be removed. Thanks for the catch. I didn't mean to add confusion to this thread.
Eight hours? I can imagine that if a guy is doing this for the first time.
I'd installed so many of these, it's a fairly easy process for me. Getting up and down not so much anymore

[SoCalCoupe]

I am unbelievably slow but making progress. Bought an additional pair of jack stands last month then went on vacation. Borrowed a spring spreader from a fellow EFV8 club member.


Spent the morning in the garage and detached the spring, removed the other hub and both backing plates. Was concerned about making a mess with brake fluid but didn't. Just put a paper towel under the brake line as I was disconnecting it and caught the couple of drops that leaked out.


Had to stop because I couldn't remember how to disassemble the axle. Looks like I need to drain the oil then remove the LH housing and RH housing. Then the axles come out after I remove the housings.


The differential drain and fill plugs are badly rounded out. I'll buy some new ones. I'll wrap my 3/8" drive in shim stock to wrench out the existing ones so I don't strip them out completely. Looks like I'll also have to buy some lock-wire for reassembly of the internals.

[deuce lover]

The axles are all connected with the carriier along with the ring gear. It all comes out the left side after removing the left axle housing . Then remove the right axle housing.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by dean333

Kube, I’m sure you meant removing the RIGHT axle housing.

I don’t know what you consider “easy”, especially if it’s up on jack stands. Adjusting the gear mesh pattern is an all day job….taking it apart at least three times to get the proper shim thickness. I can’t imagine doing that on your back as well as everything else. Everyone I’ve talked to says it’s an eight hour process.

Agree that this is the worst part. I did mine on a workbench and wouldn't want to do it under the car. Parts get heavier as I get older :-)

[Bored&Stroked]

Getting the backlash and gear mesh correctly set is really important for the overall noise and life of the gears. Preload on the pinion is important as well - though you're probably not taking the pinion out of the banjo, so you might get away with leaving it alone.

I can't imagine doing it on the floor of my garage and actually believe it would not be easy to know you had it correctly set. I'd take the whole unit out of the car and work on it where you can really see what the heck you're doing.

I make a wooden "box" out of 2" x 6" boards and stand 1/2 of the unit on it (no axles in it) - vertically (with backing plate on). Now that it is supported and about waist high, I can work on the setup of the gears and differential (side gaskets) to get the gear mesh where it needs to be. Once this is all correctly setup, then I put the whole unit together with the axles.

I also made a plate that picks up the banjo bolt-circle - so I can work on the unit on an engine stand. This makes a lot of the work a bit easier as well. The only bad part is my stands are not tall enough to completely rotate the unit . . . Oh well!

IMG_7500 copy.jpg

IMG_7732.jpg

IMG_7747 copy.jpg

[motordr]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Oh boy Dale, that Chuck key.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Getting the backlash and gear mesh correctly set is really important for the overall noise and life of the gears. Preload on the pinion is important as well - though you're probably not taking the pinion out of the banjo, so you might get away with leaving it alone.

I can't imagine doing it on the floor of my garage and actually believe it would not be easy to know you had it correctly set. I'd take the whole unit out of the car and work on it where you can really see what the heck you're doing.

I make a wooden "box" out of 2" x 6" boards and stand 1/2 of the unit on it (no axles in it) - vertically (with backing plate on). Now that it is supported and about waist high, I can work on the setup of the gears and differential (side gaskets) to get the gear mesh where it needs to be. Once this is all correctly setup, then I put the whole unit together with the axles.

I also made a plate that picks up the banjo bolt-circle - so I can work on the unit on an engine stand. This makes a lot of the work a bit easier as well. The only bad part is my stands are not tall enough to completely rotate the unit . . . Oh well!

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by motordr

Oh boy Dale, that Chuck key.

I usually never leave it in the lathe . . . but I guess I did on this particular day! LOL

[motordr]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I usually never leave it in the lathe . . . but I guess I did on this particular day! LOL

I’m sure that it wasn’t you, must have been your helper. lol.