TURN SIGNAL United Pacific 5007R

[jerrytocci]

I know my way around DC voltage but this has me stumped. The body is grounded . I can't get the indicator light to blink . Do I need all four bulbs for this to work correctly ? Do I run the fuse to battery neg ?

Thanks

[arnhemmer]

I don't thonk it's the bulbs

[arnhemmer]

Could be the flashing unit. I had one that did not operate the indicater so I got another one same part number different manufacturer and that one worked. Both arer three pronged.

[Bill Cilker]

For many years my turn signal indicator light did not work. Then I ran a ground wire to the unit and now it works. Your signal unit may not be grounded.

[jerrytocci]

Why does the diagram show a red wire going to the brake switch ?? my turn lights are independent

[Big hammer]

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You have turn signal for tail lights as turn signal, the wire going to the stop light switch is so the stop light doesn't cancel the turn signal. If you go to Synders they have instructions on the different type turn signals with wiring diagrams.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

Why does the diagram show a red wire going to the brake switch ?? my turn lights are independent

Because the brake and turn light/bulb filament are usually one and the same. You appear to be changing that.

[40-A Twins]

I installed separate lights front and rear for turn signals and did not hook up the red wire to the brake slight switch. Brake lights and running lights are wired up using original design wire harness and stock tail lights.

[CarlG]

I have the Signal Stat 900 turn signal controller. Fronts are in the cowl lights, dual filament LEDs. Rear are the United Pacific tail-stop-turn. Added to that is a set of <- -> lights that are turn only.

[Patrick L.]

I like the Signal-Stat switches and usually have a couple hanging around.

There is a huge difference in thermal flashers today. Especially the ones made of chinezium. Thats why I prefer a NOS 535 from a time long ago.

[jerrytocci]

I might have burned out the flasher . Is there a way to test it ?

[jerrytocci]

I had burned out the flasher . A new flasher fixed it

[Patrick L.]

Good.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

I had burned out the flasher . A new flasher fixed it

Is/was it an electronic flasher?
I have had nothing but problems with electronic flashers. I thought I had the problem fixed with a FL-3 electronic flasher but it burned out the other day after ~ 5 months. I finally bit the bullet and installed a thermal flasher and incandescent bulbs in the front.

[duke36]

Did the same as Y-Block due to same issue. The Stat lever assembly needs to be grounded to the steering col. housing. Also, you may have to remove the lever left side cover and check the small indicator bulb isn't loaded with grease form the factory. Some of the internal parts can fall out so check the sequence while removing the cap.

[Patrick L.]

This seems to be a big topic and has been discussed many times over the years.

The Signal-Stat units do need to be grounded and are usually full of grease which needs to be removed for the unit indicator lights work, as mentioned.

When converting to LED, the rears works great, nice and bright. To me, installing brighter higher candle power incandescent bulbs in the front, either the parks, cowls or both works the best. Since I've not found an electronic 6v flasher that actually works as it should, I use a good quality 535 thermal flasher. These flashers need the resistance provided by the front bulbs to fire/work properly and the higher CP front bulbs does make the lights quite bright. I've wasted quite a bit of money and time screwing around with electronic flashers only to end up tossing them in the corner.

[AL in NY]

Here is a electronic turn signal flasher that I've been using for a couple of years with no problems.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Here is a electronic turn signal flasher that I've been using for a couple of years with no problems.

Must be they've since perfected it.