Late 31 Pickup metal work needed- Do they not make subframe parts?

[cjs]

I have a late A wide body steel roof pickup. Much of its good including the cowl and rear body mounting points but the subframe (subrails, cross members, rear cross member , seat riser and pans) is completely missing and the body is apart. I called MAC's and they don't sell the complete floor assembly except for earlier open cars and said they don't sell the late 31 separate pieces like the subrails so I can make my own. I plan to restore to stock but it will be a driver so I'm willing to improvise on the parts. Any ideas for what I can do- are there stock reproduction pieces I can just assemble? Are there pieces I can buy and modify- if so what modifications would I need to do?
Any ideas on the differences between a regular 30/31 and late 31, solutions to the problem, or pictures of a late floor assembly would be helpful. Thanks for your help!

[Bob C]

Brattons, and I think most of the vendors, have some of the parts.
Bratton's numbers 35530, 36160, and 36480.

Bob

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Ahooga Parts makes the closest sills (subrails) for what you need.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Ahooga Parts makes the closest sills (subrails) for what you need.

I saw them at French Lick, and what they made looked very nice.
I think they are in Ohio, if I remember correctly.

[Keith True]

I didn't know anybody was making the subrails for the pickups.Then again,I haven't looked in years either.I had to buy rails for the Tudor and cut the back half off.That worked fine,as there is always somebody that would love to get their hands on just the rear halves for their Tudor.I have one more cab I plan to put together,and maybe 10-12 years ago I bought a new pair of Tudor rails to do it with.I guess I'd better look around and see what is available now that there wasn't then.Seems to me that the steel-top cab rails were different,but I can't remember just how.

[Oldbluoval]

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The steel top PU has a wider(width) subrail at the door opening. Very much akin to the late coupe but the door opening is the same as a sedan. The cross sill at the front of the riser is wide like the late coupe.

BU

[1ton]

Hey CJS, excellent post. Saves me a lot of typing. I too have a late 31 steel top indented firewall Pickup cab that needs lower patch panels, subrails and cross members. Since there are mere remnants left and nothing to go by, I am flying blind. Any and all pictures, drawings, measurements of the sub structure will be welcomed. Is the rear cross channel under or up inside the lower cab back? Help me save this truck. I will do a detailed thread on this rebuild once I get it all figured out.

[1ton]

BTW In my searches I did check the Ahooga subrails. Yes, they are very nice. Problem is that they are, as you said "close to what I need". If I can get some real dimensions, Maybe I will make some repro's and offer them to the guys that want something that fits. C'mon gents. I need some info.

[1ton]

factory drawings would be awesome

[Bob C]

Here's some pictures I saved for when I do mine, don't know who
posted them.

[1ton]

Thanks Bob C. The pics are excellent. And we found where you lost that screwdriver im pic 4. Seems that you were in the same place that I am now. How did you fasten the back of cab to subfloor?

[Bob C]

This is not my truck, I saved the pictures posted by someone else as I have a cab that I need to repair also.


Bob

[1ton]

Sorry Bob. I get it. I did notice that the cab in the pics is not a steel top Budd cab. That's ok, the pics give us a good idea of what its supposed to look like. Oldbluoval said that the subrails and cross sills are wider then the standard cab. I know the seat riser is unique to Budd cabs. Brattons sells them and I bought one. Anybody got dimensions for the rails and sills? Are regular cab corners correct or just close?

[1930 coupe]

I have heard that the floors in the bud cabs are the same as the standard cabs except the seat riser is different, and I have also heard that the subrails are different. Lets try to figure out if the subrails are the same or different.
This subrail is from a late 31 steel top Bud cab, the measurement is from the rear floorboard mounting screw. Can someone measure from a soft top 30-31 cab at the same location, to see if they are the same width.

[john charlton]

I have a Budd cab and a standard 30/31 soft top with ribs .I have measured both fore and aft subrails and they appear the same the top pressing is about 2" . The Budd seat riser is about 2" shorter front to back . The Budd cross rails are slightly wider . The floor pressing with the "C" embossing seems the same so you can use this as a jig when you build the floor assembly .Buy the tudor subrails and cut to length in the tudor the rear end of the subrail typically rots so you can easy sell the offcuts .All the floor sheet metal is available and you can choose which riser you use . Getting in and out in the Budd cab is easier . I will see if my computer son will post pics .

John in lovely high pressure sunny evening Suffolk County England .

[1ton]

I have to assume that the similarity with the tudor subrails is the fact that they share the same door. But it has been said that it's close and not correct. Length ok but not the width.

[1ton]

Hey 1930 coupe. That measurement would be in the door opening, forward of the seat riser, correct?

[1930 coupe]

Originally Posted by 1ton

Hey 1930 coupe. That measurement would be in the door opening, forward of the seat riser, correct?

Correct
top of picture is front of cab
bottom is by seat
you can see the floorboard wood

[Juggler]

Originally Posted by john charlton

I will see if my computer son will post pics .

.

Here you go Dad

P1190510

P1190511

P1190512

P1190515

P1190513

P1190516

[1ton]

Hey Juggler, those pics are exactly what we are looking for. What would you quess is the height of the cross rails? The wood floor is what? 3/4" maybe? So the step in the sheetmetal is 3/4" to 7/8" where it sets?