Ford tie rod end boots

[46woodie]

I recently had to remove tie rod ends to adjust toe in on my 46, they were siezed up on tie rod. In doing so the rubber boots or dust covers were damaged. Where can I purchase JUST the boots? Anyone know the size of the boot I need? Thanks

[Clem Clement]

Dunno. Can you use as patch of innertube and a hose clamp? That is what is on my model A.

[46woodie]

The possibilities are endless. Just thought someone may have bought these before. Thanks

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 46woodie

I recently had to remove tie rod ends to adjust toe in on my 46, they were siezed up on tie rod. In doing so the rubber boots or dust covers were damaged. Where can I purchase JUST the boots? Anyone know the size of the boot I need? Thanks

There weren't rubber "boots" on Ford tie rod ends.
I've attached two photos that should help clarify what belongs on the end. A small cupped metal washer and a piece of string enforced rubber. The rubber isn't much more than a piece of reinforced heater hose. Nacewicz used to sell a kit. Perhaps Driskell continues to sell them. I'd check with him.

[tubman]

Thanks for posting this, "Kube". I never knew this. It looks better than a couple of floppy pieces of rubber. Indeed, "Ford has a better idea".

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by tubman

Thanks for posting this, "Kube". I never knew this. It looks better than a couple of floppy pieces of rubber. Indeed, "Ford has a better idea".

It will always be difficult for Ford to have a "Better Idea" than a TV ad they had for pick-ups 25 years or so ago. Toward the end of the ad, a 'gruff-sounding' guy makes the statement....."Ford trucks have larger fuel tanks so that you can go FARTHER for LESS". That might be a BETTER idea IF it made any practical sense. DD

[RalphG]

I find most new rubber parts nowadays are such poor quality that they rot away and fall off the tie rod ends I've replaced. Haven't checked the latest one I put on the Merc a couple of years ago. Hope its still good.

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by Kube

There weren't rubber "boots" on Ford tie rod ends.
I've attached two photos that should help clarify what belongs on the end. A small cupped metal washer and a piece of string enforced rubber. The rubber isn't much more than a piece of reinforced heater hose. Nacewicz used to sell a kit. Perhaps Driskell continues to sell them. I'd check with him.

Michael at 3rd Gen Automotive still offers a kit of these seals for tie rod ends. Thanks Kube for confirming how these are designed to be installed.

[46woodie]

Thank you everyone!! Knew someone must have em. Make some calls tomorow

[Kube]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

It will always be difficult for Ford to have a "Better Idea" than a TV ad they had for pick-ups 25 years or so ago. Toward the end of the ad, a 'gruff-sounding' guy makes the statement....."Ford trucks have larger fuel tanks so that you can go FARTHER for LESS". That might be a BETTER idea IF it made any practical sense. DD

There are many current commercials for diabetic drugs that state clearly
"most folks lost an average of up to 12#".

This too makes no sense. Average and "up to" contradict each other.

[rotorwrench]

Ford did start making all rubber seals for tie rod ends but it was likely for trucks and tractors in dirt or moisture laden environments and it's more of a cap than a seal. I'm not sure when they were implemented for cars but they were likely retrofitted like the 78-3332-A rubber cap. Some of the reproductions are not like the originals and don't fit. My old 850 tractor uses the 8M-3332 cap which also fits my Mercury cars so I keep those around for the tractor. It takes a lot more beating than the cars do. Most tractor parts sources can supply them.

They do better if there is something to keep the crud out.

[Ggmac]

Dennis carpenter and early ford have them also

[46woodie]

Already got em from 3rd gen. Thanks guys!

[46woodie]

If you tighten the castleated nut far enough to get your cotter pin in then the original style grease retainer is really squished and cupped washer sits on tie rod end,no space. Thats with original size cotter pins.
Like em alot but not sure if they should be this tight.

[rich b]

Originally Posted by 46woodie

If you tighten the castleated nut far enough to get your cotter pin in then the original style grease retainer is really squished and cupped washer sits on tie rod end,no space. Thats with original size cotter pins.
Like em alot but not sure if they should be this tight.

The rubber ring should be "squished" tensioning the cupped washer against the tie rod end.

I don't know about your cotter pin dilemma; but I do know that if you don't pull the stud fully into the tapered eye, you soon will have an egged out hole in the eye.

You can also get the rubber cup style boot in black urethane from Energy Suspension.

[46woodie]

Thats my situation. Cupped washer compressed to tie rod end. Only way to get cotter pins in. Just didnt expect the rubber to be that compressed.Buy my stuff from 3rd generation,great service,parts! Thanks

[Andy]

AutoZone offers several sizes of tie rod boots. They are sized to the diameter of the shank. I found them online.

[geoford41]

contact "Joes Antique Ford auto parts in Mass, he has them in stock I got 4 or 5 the last order I place, they were only a few bucks
508-278-3980

[19Fordy]

Looking at "Kube's" post, I bet you could use a garden hose rubber grommet in place of the little rubber ring. Or use a piece of 5/8 in. heater hose nicely cut and trimmed.

[alchemy]

Originally Posted by 46woodie

If you tighten the castleated nut far enough to get your cotter pin in then the original style grease retainer is really squished and cupped washer sits on tie rod end,no space. Thats with original size cotter pins.
Like em alot but not sure if they should be this tight.

The depth the rod end is pulled into the spindle should have nothing to do with the castle nut. It all depends on the ID of the tapered hole in the spindle, and the OD of the tie rod end. Tight is tight, and the amount of threads sticking out the top has nothing to do with it.

Sure you can pull it a little bit tighter, but I'd be really surprised if you could get one more thread worth out of it to make that cotter pin go in.

I've had times the tolerances were looser, and the stud pulled up really far and I had to put a washer under the nut to make the castle nut line up with the cotter hole properly.