1930 chassis w/39 trans, clutch problems

[31Abone]

I bot a chassis with with rebuilt motor, 39 trans and columbia rear....Question, clutch pressure is very strong and clutch engages to quick, I always heard a 39 trans is supposed to be easy to operate,this setup shifts kind of hard and foot pressure is a lot more than stock model A ..also the clutch has to be let out very slowly or it jump ...any ideas from you pros out there ?? wish I had the stock model setup .. SC

[Tom Wesenberg]

A longer arm on the clutch release shaft would slow the engagement and easy the foot pressure.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 31Abone

I bot a chassis with with rebuilt motor, 39 trans and columbia rear....Question, clutch pressure is very strong and clutch engages to quick, I always heard a 39 trans is supposed to be easy to operate,this setup shifts kind of hard and foot pressure is a lot more than stock model A ..also the clutch has to be let out very slowly or it jump ...any ideas from you pros out there ?? wish I had the stock model setup .. SC

I'm not sure what you mean by easier to operate, it does have syncros for better shifting.

As these have been used by those that modify their cars who knows exactly what could have been done to it over the years.

[31Abone]

Yes, thanks a longer clutch arm would help.....trany is kind of hard to shift but will get better with use..been setting 15 years and it does not grate the gears witch is good..Thanks

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 31Abone

Yes, thanks a longer clutch arm would help.....trany is kind of hard to shift but will get better with use..been setting 15 years and it does not grate the gears witch is good..Thanks

Hey 31Abone,
Something is definitely wrong....OR maybe different than you were told/lead to believe ! I have '39 trans and V8 pressure plate/disc in my '30 roadster and have had for over ten years. Leg 'pressure' / strength to push the clutch pedal is much LESS than that reguired to depress the stock Model A clutch. Part of the reason for this, is that if the proper/best V8 pressure plate is used...the one with the counter weights on the outer end of the arms...these counter weights work with centrifugal force in you favor to lighten the load/pressure needed. Now check to see if you have the farm tractor type of pressure plate...without the counter weights ! If you have the tractor type, you will NOT have much, if any , advantage over the stock pressure plate. Hope this makes sense to you, if not PM to me.

BTW...'harder to use and gets better with use'....Drain and check the trans fluid. Sounds like someone has put TOO HEAVY weight in trans. When drained, check for metal chips also to detect internal cond of trans also. Yellow/gold looking chips...equals synchro wear, whereas silver color chips indicate gear wear/grinding. I use 140 weight trans fluid and rear end.

[Patrick L.]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Do you know what clutch this monster has ? Take a quick in the bell housing.

[1931 flamingo]

Is this one of Cling's conversion kits or something "cobbled" together. Which disc and pressure plate AND clutch release linkage comes into play here for adjustment purposes. Also, how much free play is there in the pedal?? If it's been sitting that long I would try driving the pxxs out of it for a while. JMO
Paul in CT

[31Abone]

I have been driving the old gal fast by the way..it has a lot of pep ,never had driven a Model A like this rig ,I will take the inspec plate off and look inside..work was done by supposed pro ..,columbia installed 40s ford brakes in back,32 or33 in front, all rod and cable..steering is not very good either..thanks for help..I hate take it all apart but maybe will have to..sc

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 31Abone

I have been driving the old gal fast by the way..it has a lot of pep ,never had driven a Model A like this rig ,I will take the inspec plate off and look inside..work was done by supposed pro ..,columbia installed 40s ford brakes in back,32 or33 in front, all rod and cable..steering is not very good either..thanks for help..I hate take it all apart but maybe will have to..sc

'all rod and cable'...huh? '40 brakes NEVER had rod/cable Can you post some pics of what you are speaking ?

[31Abone]

The front are 32 or there abouts backing plates and hubs with holes in them.. brake rod connected same as Model A in front..back brakes have 40s or 50s backing plate and use emergency cable only and connected to brake cross shaft..emergency brake is hooked to foot brake cross shaft.. hope this helps I can get pics tomorrow ..sc

[31Abone]

here are pics of clutch area and rear brake drums using cable only and the front brake drums..front brake drums are the open type shown in photo..brakes work good but steering is not the best..main complaint is the clutch pressure and jumping when clutch is let out ...thanks

[1931 flamingo]

Interesting...............
Paul

[Bob C]

The rear look like 37-38 cable operated mechanical brakes.

Bob

[ron103140]

I plan on putting a Clings conversion between my 30 engine and my 39 transmission. Is this my best option or are there other better options? Ron

[1931 flamingo]

Bert's (in Denver) also offers a kit for the conversion.
Paul in CT

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by ron103140

I plan on putting a Clings conversion between my 30 engine and my 39 transmission. Is this my best option or are there other better options? Ron

Who's adapter is in there now?

Bob