Can I salvage these axle threads on 47 sedan

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by BoxCar Tom

Just curious, what year axles are interchangeable?

42-48 all use the same 21A 4235 axle according to the green bible.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Just curious, how in the hell did that happen?

I sure wish I knew. All I can come up with is plain old metal fatigue like the other axle that broke off a few months ago.

[Old Henry]

I bought a 9/16" die and tried to get it started on the old stripped 5/8" shaft and couldn't. Found an NOS axle on eBay that I bought to put on. Not looking forward to the job but it is, without doubt, the better way.

Thanks for all of your help and comments.

[Tim Ayers]

I think this is the best solution. Get yourself an NOS or good used nut too.

[Planojc]

This should be a testimony on the importance of proper axle nut torque.

[Charlie Stephens]

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Since your life depends on it I would replace the axle. Whatever you decide you should add "safety hubs" or "safety clips".

Charlie Stephens

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I think this is the best solution. Get yourself an NOS or good used nut too.

I planned on doing that too.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Since your life depends on it I would replace the axle. Whatever you decide you should add "safety hubs" or "safety clips".

Charlie Stephens

What are safety hubs/safety clips?

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

What are safety hubs/safety clips?

If a rear axle breaks on an early Ford the wheel will come off. Very exciting if you are on the freeway. Safety hubs were developed for and required for early racing. Safety clips are a more recent solution where a clip retains the brake drum. Good antique parts houses should have them.

Charlie Stephens

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

The tire, rim, and brake drum all took the hike.
The nut, washer and cotter pin were loose in the hub cap. Cotter pin was in pieces.
Fortunately, this was not the left side axle I replaced a few months ago. I did that replacement. It was a horrible task. That's why I really REALLY didn't want to do it again.

Thanks for clearing this up.
Please be certain to torque that nut down to 200 ft/lbs.

[FlatheadTed]

Adjustable dye nut could be spreed out fitted and screwed off cleaning up the thread ,I used a nut on a Model A cut through one side on a angle,screwed it on then closed up the cut with wise grips then screwed it off as a thread cleaner ,I then cut another 5/8 unf nut across fitted it then squeezed it and ran a weld across it ,it closed up farther as it cooled backed it up with one of my Brake Jame nuts worked real good . temporary your choice . ( made my first Go cart in Dads black smith shop at about 11,great learning great teacher ,) .

[Jack E/NJ]

Clips seem simple enough to install.

[FlatheadTed]

Also you could could puts some dabs of Blue lock tight on it (axle that is ) you may need heat if you ever want to take it off , Good luck Henry.

[bo8109b]

Have a good right axel out of a '48 if you want it. Carl

[bo8109b]

Have a good right axel and nut out of a "48 if you're interested. Carl

[ford38v8]

Professor, as you had replaced the left axle previously, you know that both axles and ring gear must come out the left side to do the job. That makes the current incident more personal to you as that nut had been reinstalled by you. Being a first timer at that task, it was likely a simple error in that installation that caused this mishap. You stated that it was a horrible job then, but it won’t be horrible this time as you’re a veteran now and will have learned from past mistakes!

[Pete]

Find a good original axle to replace it. Steer clear of off shore made axles.

OEM axles can be TIG welded and re-threaded but I would guess that there are only about 3 people left that can do it right.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

As that nut had been reinstalled by you, it was likely a simple error in that installation that caused this mishap.

What was my error that caused this mishap? Please let me know so I don't do it again. Thanks.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Also you could could puts some dabs of Blue lock tight on it (axle that is ) you may need heat if you ever want to take it off , Good luck Henry.

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[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

What was my error that caused this mishap? Please let me know so I don't do it again. Thanks.

It's hard to know the exact error after the fact, but it boils down to the axle taper not having been firmly secured within the hub, which allowed a wheel wobble and direct pressure on the axle nut. You may confirm this by the condition of the key when you get it out. Of the several causes, the most common would be not getting a good torque on the nut, maybe backing it off to access the cotter key hole, or another easy mistake to make would be a key installed backwards, upside down, or longer than usable. One could lay out a dozen possibilities to avoid and still another may have caused the failure.

Perhaps the best preventative measure would be to have a full understanding of how a Morse Taper works. Look it up on the web, and then consider the folly of incorporating a key and keyway into the Ford axle system. Could it be that Old Henry held a shallow trust of the Morse Taper himself? Certainly the additional cost of the key/keyway was significant.