The Ford Barn

Dal's Dream Car · 06-30-2012, 06:43 AM

After spending some time here in the barn, it seems that electrical problems are pretty common so here is mine. Its a '29 Tudor.

Can't get the lights or the horn to work. With the engine running, removing the lighting switch from the column and touching the body of the switch to ground, the horn will sound. It also sounds just while backing the switch out of its seated position. I can jumper from the BAT terminal on the switch to the light terminals and the light will work but still nothing with the switch back in place.

Thought maybe the paint on the switch housing was keeping me from ground so I cleaned that up. No luck.

Do these switches go bad? With an ohm meter and my son up top moving the switch, it seems to be opening and closing.

Can't drive in the parade without lights and a horn!

Ray in La Mesa · 06-30-2012, 10:06 AM

The center spring contact on your plastic contact plate of the wiring harness is the horn connection, sometimes it will not be straight and rub against the brass rotating ring in the upper 1/2 of the switch. Put a short piece of shrink tubing around the spring and contact cup to insulate it from the brass ring. Be careful not to cover the face of the contact. Some of the repro switches have a smaller hole in the brass ring so watch for that also.

Tom Wesenberg · 06-30-2012, 10:09 AM

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The light switch body needs NO ground, Do you ave the correct switch for the contact plate. 1928-early 29 with fluted headlamps use different switch and contact plates than the later headlamps with high/low beam.

You should have 6 volts on the horn contact in the center of the switch, and when you ground it the horn should blow. Let us know what you find.

06-30-2012, 06:43 AM	#1
Dal's Dream Car Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Alton Bay, NH Posts: 58	Need some AAAHOOGA! After spending some time here in the barn, it seems that electrical problems are pretty common so here is mine. Its a '29 Tudor. Can't get the lights or the horn to work. With the engine running, removing the lighting switch from the column and touching the body of the switch to ground, the horn will sound. It also sounds just while backing the switch out of its seated position. I can jumper from the BAT terminal on the switch to the light terminals and the light will work but still nothing with the switch back in place. Thought maybe the paint on the switch housing was keeping me from ground so I cleaned that up. No luck. Do these switches go bad? With an ohm meter and my son up top moving the switch, it seems to be opening and closing. Can't drive in the parade without lights and a horn!

06-30-2012, 10:06 AM	#2
Ray in La Mesa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: La Mesa Ca Posts: 1,166	Re: Need some AAAHOOGA! The center spring contact on your plastic contact plate of the wiring harness is the horn connection, sometimes it will not be straight and rub against the brass rotating ring in the upper 1/2 of the switch. Put a short piece of shrink tubing around the spring and contact cup to insulate it from the brass ring. Be careful not to cover the face of the contact. Some of the repro switches have a smaller hole in the brass ring so watch for that also.

06-30-2012, 10:09 AM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Need some AAAHOOGA! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The light switch body needs NO ground, Do you ave the correct switch for the contact plate. 1928-early 29 with fluted headlamps use different switch and contact plates than the later headlamps with high/low beam. You should have 6 volts on the horn contact in the center of the switch, and when you ground it the horn should blow. Let us know what you find.