Model B starter broken

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

And reconfigure the field windings for 12 volts! Also easy to do.

I agree,

DEFINAYELY re-configure the windings for 12 volts.

This will save a lot of problems down the road.

My experience,

Chris W.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by rbullockv8

Okay, I'm getting confused by the options.
1. It sounds like the armature is separate from the shaft and can be swapped with another shaft? I thought armature and shaft were sort of one unit, and that Frank Miller was suggesting replacing the shaft/armature with one from a Model A.

2. Synchro909: I'm not sure what you mean by "reconfigure" field coils. Is this a series/parallel wiring change? I understand swapping them out for 12v replacements, but not reconfigure.

3. And, Jim Brierley: As far as I know, this is the original starter on this roadster PU, and it's heavy steel. The steering column has the plug in place where the starter cable would go for a pull type switch, and I can remember back to the early 1950s that it always had a foot starter switch (my dad bought the truck in 1939). My frame/bell housing serial number puts its manufacture in the August 1932 range: B / BB 5144011--5146668 August 1932, and I thought I remembered Ford changing from the pull starter switch to the foot starter switch in June or July '32? Not sure. I didn't know about aluminum-body starters.

PM sent.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by rbullockv8

Well, my eyesight isn't what it used to be, but, yeah, I'm pretty sure the shaft is broken

Shaft looks crystalized on much of the interior, with only a couple of shiny metal break spots. Or I guess that could have happened when it broke and spun against the shaft ends for a second.

I checked the ring gear all around. It's new. No damaged teeth. The broken ends of the shaft go together pretty well, but I know I should check in the bottom of the bell housing for metal shavings and bits. Have to bet a flexible magnetic pickup.

Hm, never have seen a snapped starter shaft like this one you've pictured !

FWIW, I have an original model A starter ('30) , not rebuilt but cleaned/undercut mica/polished commutator segments. It has had the new barrel gear, as your does. It has run on 12volts for 15 years without a problem. I have always been informed that the 6V windings are heavier than 12V windings and will definitely work that way. Mine has. Make sure that the heavier 6V starter cables are used also.

In my opinion, if your starter was working loose and run loose very long, that is the only way that I can see where the shaft would take enough abuse to bend/snap. I also believe that it must have had a fracture/imperfection in the shaft when made.

Anyway, I have a rebuilt '32 starter that has been stored away for many years. If you cannot locate a source of another, pm me.

[Dollar Bill]

Originally Posted by rbullockv8

Shaft looks crystallized on much of the interior, with only a couple of shiny metal break spots.

Grain structure infers improper heat treatment. As already mentioned, took 80 years to fail.