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Old 06-30-2015, 09:46 AM   #1
whizzernick
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Default 1951 - rod & main clearance

I have an original 1951 ford eng. I plan to use it but thought as it is on eng stand why not check rod and main clearance's. I have .003 on both(plasticgage) std bearings. should I install new std bearings or is .003 OK ?
I have run this eng ---ran good -- good oil pressure when above idle rpm---little or no smoke.
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:15 AM   #2
WestCoast
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

Ford calls for ,001 to .002 clearances, is the copper showing thru the babbit in the bearings, if so I would at least replace the bearings with new ones, that should tighten things up a thousand or so, been awhile since I built a flathead, been taking cancer infusions treatments, but they used to make 1 to 2 thousand under bearings, if you can find them buy .002 under, using them will give you exceptable clearance, but at the least I would install new bearings

Last edited by WestCoast; 06-30-2015 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:25 AM   #3
Ronnie
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

What color of plasti gauge did you use?

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Old 06-30-2015, 02:10 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

green
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:28 PM   #5
Ross F-1
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

Plastigage doesn't tell you if the bearings are egg-shaped. Miking the journals would be better.

How do you plan to use the engine? Long trips, local duty, etc.? Mine had similar clearances and ran fine, no noise, decent pressure, but I wanted it to last a long time so I had the crank turned.

Does your engine have hardened valve seats, or the rotator-type valves? If you are going to push it at all, I'd get hardened seats put in.
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:38 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

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You could confirm with red.As .003" is the upper end of green. But .003 is too much.

Specs for colors

Green
: 0.001" to 0.003",
Red: 0.002" to 0.006",
Blue: 0.004" to 0.009"

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Old 06-30-2015, 07:05 PM   #7
Ol' Ron
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

I'd like to bring up the subject of oil viscosity here. With .001-.002" Rod and main bearing clearance, do you still feel running 15-40 oil is a good idea?
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:23 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

As much as I used to love high oil pressure, I've changed my way of thinking. If you are running your pump over relief, seems it is overworking your pump and creating excess heat. Didn't Ford specify 30 wt summer and 20wt winter? Certainly they were considering close tolerances here. I'm leaning toward a viscosity that would produce just under 50# warm at cruising speed.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:32 PM   #9
Ross F-1
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

I've had no problems with plain old 10w30.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:44 PM   #10
Walt Dupont--Me.
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

If your just try to get by with an engine with a lot of miles, here is a trick we use to do when we didn't have money to buy bearings. Take a piece of aluminum foil, that's usually .001 thick, cut it the width of the main bearing and put it in the main bearing cap under the bearing, that will take up some clearance and won't hurt a thing. Walt
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:08 AM   #11
DD931
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

Make sure you make holes where they need to be!!
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:16 AM   #12
rotorwrench
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

Walt
That reminds me of stories about combat boot leather tongues being cut to fit Model A rod caps. My last boss remembered a guy doing that every weekend that he got leave from the army. Can you imagine pulling the pan just to make a trip home for the week end. Folks did a lot worse back in the day.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:29 AM   #13
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

This is sort of "on the subject". Coating of bearings (and other parts as well) is very standard today. There are companies that coat bearings OR you can coat them yourself with the right equipment. The typical moly coating on a bearing is .0005" thick for each bearing shell or .001" for both halves. Where is this used? On just about every Nascar engine every week!

When I built my flathead 276" I also coated the pistons and combustion chambers-----helps to keep a little more heat in the combustion chamber. You can also moly coat the sides of the pistons----helps to reduce "piston slap".
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:19 AM   #14
Ronnie
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

Quote:
Originally Posted by DD931 View Post
Make sure you make holes where they need to be!!
There are no required holes in the main cap bearings.

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Old 07-01-2015, 11:16 AM   #15
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

You don't mention anything about your oil pump, but the Melling M-19 will "cover" the .003"/.003" clearances. Those numbers are somwhat loose but should not be an overall issue! We have built many with .003" (mains) and .0025" (rods).

You can't do much with the main clearance but you could "shrink" the rod clearance at home (or in a shop) with some slight labor! You just need to be very careful. The plastigage would make this procedure somewhat more difficult.

(Add) The only coatings (Teflon) we use now are on our cam brgs, it helps "tighten" the room very slightly in that area.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We don't place much reliability in using plastigage for measuring, believing it isn't really accurate enough?? This is my own take on it.

Last edited by GOSFAST; 07-01-2015 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Add info
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:23 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1951 - rod & main clearance

Thanks for all the replys
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