1939 pickup new distributor

[Fech]

Hello all,
Does any one can please share pictures or videos how to install a speedway electronic distributor?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1932-...tor,11999.html


I tried first the coil conversion kit, but the engine makes explosion noises, I not sure what is the problem.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1937-...Kit,35795.html

Thanks in advance.

[JSeery]

Why would you be using the coil remote conversion kit with that distributor? Not sure what you are trying to do here. Reread your post and I am totally confused about what you are doing. What are you using for a coil? What voltage are your using, 6v or 12v? What year is the engine you are mounting this on?

[JSeery]

From the Q&A on Speedways site:

Q: I purchased this 1932-41 3 bolt distributor for my project car and im trying to get the other parts needed to install it. im a little confused with the install instructions supplied with the unit. Im converting my generator to 12 volts and an external voltage regulator has to be used as well. it says that if the flamethrower 1.5 ohm coil is used then a ballast resistor is not required but in the install instructions supplied with the distributor it shows a ballast resistor in figure #1 and it also shows a control box too. so im confused? should this unit be installed like in figure #2 but with the ballast resistor removed and the square coil shown changed to the flame thrower coil (part# 44745011).

A: Since you are using a coil with a built in resistor of 1.5 ohms you will not need to use an external ballast resistor. Simply connect the green wire to Coil -, the red wire to Coil +, and the black wire to ground. This distributor does not require an ignition box but you can use an ignition box if desired. The wiring diagram is provided to show the proper wiring with an ignition box.


From me: This is a 12v negative ground distributor. It requires resistance spark plug wires, solid core wires will not work and will damage the module in the distributor. The instruction sheet provided really has nothing to do with this distributor.

[tubman]

I hate to say this, but my opinion is to install it in the nearest garbage can, and get a stock unit setup by any one of several guys on here.

New is NOT better.

[fordwife]

times 2

[oldford2]

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My question is what prompted you to spend several hundred dollars for a new distributor. What was your problem with the original? Just asking
John

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by oldford2

My question is what prompted you to spend several hundred dollars for a new distributor. What was your problem with the original? Just asking
John

Nobody asked, but I'll speak up with my opinion anyway...
The guy is a Newbie, maybe his first collector car, so he can be forgiven for falling for the hype on replacing old parts with new stuff that is advertised as better. Perhaps he hadn't been mentored correctly before jumping in with his wallet in hand. This is our fault, not his. Let's hope he asks questions before he opens his wallet again!

[flatjack9]

I have just gone through several of these distributors that customers have sent me. They all need to be recurved as the advance curve and total advance are wrong for a flathead. There is a kit for recurving. Use the lightest springs and the largest advance stop.

[Talkwrench]

I have run that unit for about 8 years now almost daily [12 volt] , never an issue. The only thing I did do was make sure you loctite the screw that holds the 'button" on. Use the matching coil for it. I always thought the timing was really good on mine.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

I have run that unit for about 8 years now almost daily [12 volt] , never an issue. The only thing I did do was make sure you loctite the screw that holds the 'button" on. Use the matching coil for it. I always thought the timing was really good on mine.

Have you ever measured the advance curve?

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Have you ever measured the advance curve?

All in at 2200 rpm If I remember.

[flatjack9]

sounds good.

[Hoop]

"Nobody asked, but I'll speak up with my opinion anyway...
The guy is a Newbie, maybe his first collector car, so he can be forgiven for falling for the hype on replacing old parts with new stuff that is advertised as better. Perhaps he hadn't been mentored correctly before jumping in with his wallet in hand. This is our fault, not his. Let's hope he asks questions before he opens his wallet again!
__________________
Alan"

Alan, did you miss his earlier thread?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274976

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Hoop

Alan, did you miss his earlier thread?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274976

Yep, I missed it. It seems his reason for changing was lack of local availability of parts, but these days, 99% of us are in that same boat along with him.

[35fordtn]

Seems like a lot of electronic distributor posts on here recently.

I’ve used a speedway unit and about every electronic replacement as well. The speedways aren’t bad but replacement parts were a issue. Clearance can be a issue as they protrude out pretty far and they look very modern for a old car.Never understood the thought process that points are bad?

[Hoop]

"Never understood the thought process that points are bad?"

Aside from concerns about the quality of reproduction points, there is an overwhelming belief that the simplest timing procedure on an early distributor is impossible ... and that it must be done on a machine ... and you have to send your distributor off somewhere to get it done.

Whether that's true or not, guys are discouraged by much of the advice even here on Ford Barn.

And, a lot of that "advice" is from guys who are simply repeating stuff they read here on FB and not from firsthand experience.

Overall, early V8 distributors are not well understood and the misconceptions rule people's thinking.

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Hoop

"Never understood the thought process that points are bad?"

Aside from concerns about the quality of reproduction points, there is an overwhelming belief that the simplest timing procedure on an early distributor is impossible ... and that it must be done on a machine ... and you have to send your distributor off somewhere to get it done.

Whether that's true or not, guys are discouraged by much of the advice even here on Ford Barn.

And, a lot of that "advice" is from guys who are simply repeating stuff they read here on FB and not from firsthand experience.

Overall, early V8 distributors are not well understood and the misconceptions rule people's thinking.

Hoop, having a sun machine and KRW fixture is handy as between the two one can assure everything is perfect.. However I have driven my cars with the points set by a feller gauge when I was younger and never used any equipment and they ran perfect. So... It can be over rated, way over rated.

Just like rebuilt to some means sling in some point's adjust it and go.. To others rebuilt is way more in depth.


Back to the posters speedway distributor.. Be careful if using a alternator as those Speedway units are sensitive to voltage spikes..

[Hoop]

Michael, exactly. What if someone had kept telling you that you couldn't/shouldn't even try.

Anyhow, a lot of your success today can be attributed to those feeler gauges.

There is always going to be a need for quality distributor rebuilds. There are always going to be guys who have no interest in tinkering with their distributors.

As I've said before, did Henry Ford risk his entire company on a distributor that had to be shipped off to have the points changed and the timing set?

(i think I need to stay out of these discussions. )

[Fech]

Hi All,
Thank so much for your input. Yes. I have not experience with classic cars, and Unfortunately the pickup is abroad, and nobody there knows or want to " fix it".
So, calibration the old dizzy is an issue besides the lack of parts suppliers. The practical solution in this case is installing the speedway electronic distributor. Please provide pictures or videos how to install this new distributor. I purchased also, the recommended spark plugs cables and coil. The pickup was converted to 12v. (Not 6v batteries available or too expensive).
Thanks