46 ford starting problem

[mbjones]

have a 46 coupe , flathead v8 and still 6 volt , have a starting problem that has me stumped , starts well when using it daily or weekly ,
if i leave the car sitting for 2 weeks or more , it will not start of the key ,
tried engine start , tried jump starting with 12 volt , will not fire .
if i clutch or bump start it . it will fire straight into life and sit there at an idle ,
run the car for a few minutes and then turn off . it will then start of the key like it should . but a week or so later , will not start .
this has me stumped , .
have checked timing . points look fine . have cleaned them .
replaced the cap and rotor. checked battery voltage . is at 6.4 volts
any ideas on what to look for next .
flathead engines are new to me . any help is appreciated

[FortyNiner]

Can you post a picture of the engine bay?

[Ggmac]

When you say ‘ will not start with key ‘ , does it crank over ? Is fuel visible in the fuel bowl ?
Have you checked voltage at coil with key on ?

[mbjones]

yes , has fuel , have an electric pump .
cranks over fine , just will not fire .
have not checked voltage at coil , but will do tomorrow night .
once running will start straight away

[Automotive Stud]

Sounds like the carburetor is drying out.

[Ggmac]

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Check ignition switch contacts . Easy to do .

[Bill OH]

I would prime carb with the electric fuel pump. Carb is dry and once it has run, then it will start readily next time.

[FlatheadTed]

(voltage drop ) Clean all your conections ,resiter under dash ,ING switch ,coil comections ,Run a wire direct from the Bat Neg termnial to the coil as a test , for a short test ,hook the jumper leads to the starter side of the solinoide then one to a head stud /exhaused .
if it fires up you have voltage drop somewere ,

[drolston]

When cranking but not starting, take a plug wire loose and see if it will jump 1/2" with a nice blue spark. If no = ignition problem. check for 4.5+ volts at coil. replace condenser. try a different coil.



If good spark, shoot some engine starting fluid (ether) into the carb and see if it fires up. That would point to a fuel delivery problem.

[ford38v8]

The following is a tip from our good friend Supereal, posted here in the year 2008. The tip is still a good one, and may be incorporated into any old car, and in fact was made standard equipment by many car manufacturers in the mid fifties.



From reading of your starting problems, I believe this may help:



If all of these good tips still don't help with the hot starts, I'd install a "hot start" circuit. It is a wire between the starter motor side of the solenoid and the coil input terminal. In the middle of the wire, place a diode. Get one at Radio Shack. Use as strong a diode as they have. To see if the diode is properly oriented, put your voltmeter between the end of the wire and ground before you attach the wire to the coil, then crank the engine. If you see voltage, it is OK. If not, reverse the diode. This circuit places full battery voltage on the coil when the starter is run to compensate for the drop caused by the starter, and drops out when the solenoid is released. We have put many of these on old cars, and it nearly always lessens or eliminates hot start problems. Before electronic ignitions, this circuit was built into most modern cars.

[paul2748]

May be good advice for a "hot start" problem, but this is not what the question is about. Has trouble when "cold"


QUOTE=ford38v8;2145693]The following is a tip from our good friend Supereal, posted here in the year 2008. The tip is still a good one, and may be incorporated into any old car, and in fact was made standard equipment by many car manufacturers in the mid fifties.



From reading of your starting problems, I believe this may help:



If all of these good tips still don't help with the hot starts, I'd install a "hot start" circuit. It is a wire between the starter motor side of the solenoid and the coil input terminal. In the middle of the wire, place a diode. Get one at Radio Shack. Use as strong a diode as they have. To see if the diode is properly oriented, put your voltmeter between the end of the wire and ground before you attach the wire to the coil, then crank the engine. If you see voltage, it is OK. If not, reverse the diode. This circuit places full battery voltage on the coil when the starter is run to compensate for the drop caused by the starter, and drops out when the solenoid is released. We have put many of these on old cars, and it nearly always lessens or eliminates hot start problems. Before electronic ignitions, this circuit was built into most modern cars.[/QUOTE]

[mbjones]

is not fuel , and have tried starting fluid , still does not fire .
checked voltage at coil with ignition on , 6.2 volts .
have run a hotwire from battery to coil ,
still no start .
if i push out of the garage and bump start , car will crank into life and run just like it should ,
electrical is not my strong point , but trying to sort it myself , as most electrical shops here have no idea when working on old cars . they just want to fit replacement parts until problem solved .
thanks for all the help and ideas so far

[corvette8n]

Did you clean your points?, also send your distributor to CharlieNY for a rebuild, my car was running really bad, bushings were very worn.

[drolston]

Originally Posted by mbjones

is not fuel , and have tried starting fluid , still does not fire .
checked voltage at coil with ignition on , 6.2 volts .
have run a hotwire from battery to coil ,
still no start .
if i push out of the garage and bump start , car will crank into life and run just like it should ,
electrical is not my strong point , but trying to sort it myself , as most electrical shops here have no idea when working on old cars . they just want to fit replacement parts until problem solved .
thanks for all the help and ideas so far

Bump start but not crank start; what is the difference? With a bump start the starter is not cranking and dragging the battery voltage down.



First check all of your battery cables for gauge suitable for 6 volts; like super heavy. Then check all cable connections at the battery, to solenoid and to ground and to engine. It could be burned contacts on the solenoid; try jumping across the solenoid (from the battery connection to the starter connection) to see if it will fire. Could be as simple as a bad battery with a lot of internal resistance. Have it load checked at your local parts store.

[FlatheadTed]

AS well as the above .Jump 12 volt direct ,hook the jumper leads to the starter side of the solinoid then one to a head stud /or ex manifold .

[Mac VP]

Stock Ford ignition switch? Key operated toggle switch to turn ignition on and the push button to energize the starter? Or has someone changed things over to a more recent style key switch that does both?

[Terry,OH]

Have you checked CCA of the battery? Have it charged up and take it to one of the many auto parts stores. Don't just check voltage.

[mbjones]

took Drolston's advice re the starter motor , jumped it direct from the battery , still no start .
checked earth , cleaned up the leads , run a separate earth lead direct to the starter .
success , now starts first time every time .
thanks very much guy's .