The Ford Barn

'59Edsel · 07-06-2011, 01:43 AM

Hello everyone,

I've got a 1959 Edsel Ranger with a 292 engine and a Ford two barrel 2100 carburetor. Just last week I had my carburetor rebuilt by a professional who specializes in for 2100 carbs. But my baby still won't run right! I'm young and inexperienced, so can all of you look at the video I shot of me trying to get this engine going and tell me what you think the next step would be in getting this thing purring like a kitten? I'm not sure what to look at next. Maybe some trained ears and eyes can tell me someone mine can't.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZW5RE7ADrc

Thanks everyone!

54mainlinetim · 07-06-2011, 04:03 AM

not for sure but might not be getting constant fuel ,after you get it running have you tryed gunning the gas? if it dies out quick id say fuel problem ,i would replace your fuel pump and fuel filter to see if it helps plus you will have a piece of mind that you have replaced those parts.

and is your gas still turning pink from gas tank?if so that might be a problem

'59Edsel · 07-06-2011, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 54mainlinetim

not for sure but might not be getting constant fuel ,after you get it running have you tryed gunning the gas? if it dies out quick id say fuel problem ,i would replace your fuel pump and fuel filter to see if it helps plus you will have a piece of mind that you have replaced those parts.

and is your gas still turning pink from gas tank?if so that might be a problem

Thanks for the input, and no. The gas isn't pink anymore. I had that problem dealt with.

frank long island · 07-06-2011, 04:39 PM

possibly when the tank was resealed the fuel outlet was downsized by sealer this is whats great about old cars

darrell · 07-06-2011, 05:41 PM

have you taken the engine for a good run.have you adjusted the idle screws.

46yblock · 07-06-2011, 05:58 PM

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I looked at a compilation of Holley carburetors, and it shows in '59 that an Edsel with 292 was supplied with a Holley 2300 2V. Which 2100 do you have? ID is one of three ways: Metal tag with numbers, numbers stamped on side of front foot (forget which side), and the number inside a circle cast into the outside of the float bowl chamber signifying the venturi size. 2100s with a 1.02 or 1.08 venturi would fit your application.

Is there a vacuum leak? Checking for a leak at the base gasket can be done with carb cleaner sprayed at carb base, engine running. If engine picks up speed you found a leak. Has the engine run well with this carb previously? Good tuneup? Is the automatic hot air choke connected properly (if not a vacuum leak can result)? Vacuum line connected to the dist. vacuum advance? Is the dist. vacuum advance working? To check remove hose from carb, suck on end of hose while looking at dist. with cap off. Points should rotate with the vaccuum. While still sucking crimp hose tightly, and points shouldnt move until the hose is uncrimped. Idle needles are set at 1 1/2 turns out initially, and then adjusted.

My speakers are out of order so couldnt listen to the video. Take off the air cleaner and while looking down into carb throat, see if there are two equal streams of gas shooting out when you manually give it throttle (engine off). This lets you know if the accelerator pump is working. Start engine with AC still off and look for overflowing gas out the tops of the overflow tubes. There shouldnt be any. If there is it is a stuck float needle valve, probably from debris (hope you put on a new gas filter). Examine the sides and beneath the carb for signs of gas, again shouldnt be any.

Here is a pic of a 2100 showing the three IDs mentioned. The tag, the circle showing just above the accelerator pump link, and barely seen is the stamped number on foot in front of throttle lever stop.

'59Edsel · 07-06-2011, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 46yblock

I looked at a compilation of Holley carburetors, and it shows in '59 that an Edsel with 292 was supplied with a Holley 2300 2V. Which 2100 do you have? ID is one of three ways: Metal tag with numbers, numbers stamped on side of front foot (forget which side), and the number inside a circle cast into the outside of the float bowl chamber signifying the venturi size. 2100s with a 1.02 or 1.08 venturi would fit your application.

Is there a vacuum leak? Checking for a leak at the base gasket can be done with carb cleaner sprayed at carb base, engine running. If engine picks up speed you found a leak. Has the engine run well with this carb previously? Good tuneup? Is the automatic hot air choke connected properly (if not a vacuum leak can result)? Vacuum line connected to the dist. vacuum advance? Is the dist. vacuum advance working? To check remove hose from carb, suck on end of hose while looking at dist. with cap off. Points should rotate with the vaccuum. While still sucking crimp hose tightly, and points shouldnt move until the hose is uncrimped. Idle needles are set at 1 1/2 turns out initially, and then adjusted.

My speakers are out of order so couldnt listen to the video. Take off the air cleaner and while looking down into carb throat, see if there are two equal streams of gas shooting out when you manually give it throttle (engine off). This lets you know if the accelerator pump is working. Start engine with AC still off and look for overflowing gas out the tops of the overflow tubes. There shouldnt be any. If there is it is a stuck float needle valve, probably from debris (hope you put on a new gas filter). Examine the sides and beneath the carb for signs of gas, again shouldnt be any.

Here is a pic of a 2100 showing the three IDs mentioned:

Wow thanks for all the good information. I will go through these steps thoroughly! My carb is a Ford Autolite 5752307.

When I first got the car, it hadn't run in four years. I Cleaned up everything I could and replaced a few components here and there. The carb wasn't rebuilt, and the car ran fine. It would run for hours and hours without a problem. All of a sudden one day, it stopped running correctly. Doing what it's doing now.

46yblock · 07-06-2011, 07:35 PM

Your autolite was used on 58-59 Fairlanes, and very well may have come as original equipment on the Edsel. It has the 1.02 venturi which was standard for 292s, though a little undersized. Best of luck.

parklane · 07-06-2011, 09:34 PM

If the car suddenly ran crappy, and rebuilding the carb didn't change anything, me thinks that the problem is elsewhere. JMHO

54mainlinetim · 07-06-2011, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parklane

If the car suddenly ran crappy, and rebuilding the carb didn't change anything, me thinks that the problem is elsewhere. JMHO

x2 what he said ^^^

by watching video sounds like carb is running out of fuel then it dies then bowl fills back up and then you can restart and it runs till the carb runs out again ....a easy way to check the fuel pump is to take fuel line off the carb and have someone turn the motor over and see if it has good flow as the pump works make sure you have the fuel line in a gas can ...

Fordestes · 07-06-2011, 10:19 PM

set the choke on , and at high idle see if it will stay running , open choke have an assistant try to keep idle just high enough to stay running (if possible) get a spray can of wd 40,ray around base of carb and intake manifold if eng. starts to level out the problem is vacuum leak, check and block all vacuum hoses see if anything changes, check point setting and check timing , put vacuume gauge on manifold , see what vacuum reads, had an old y block jump time once,it ran like crap.

'59Edsel · 07-06-2011, 10:22 PM

Thanks for the help guys, I think I'll check for vacuum leaks first.

Bill Steiner · 07-07-2011, 02:33 PM

If it is what I call a two barrel Ford. The brass tubes can fall out of the secondary venture. Take out the acell . nozzle and it should have two small ones inside two large ones. Bill

'59Edsel · 07-07-2011, 05:46 PM

Does anyone have any good tips on plugging up vacuum ports that aren't being used?

parklane · 07-07-2011, 08:35 PM

You can go to the salvage yard and take some off egines, or maybe try parts store ie: NAPA, Parts quest etc. Did you find a unused port that isn't plugged??

'59Edsel · 07-08-2011, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parklane

Did you find a unused port that isn't plugged??

Well, my choke tube that came out of the manifold has broken off, so I need to get that fixed...and there is another hole on the other side of the manifold that wasn't plugged when I first got it running ,but I might as well...

tdlmomowers · 07-08-2011, 08:51 AM

I had a broken choke tube on an older Ford FE series engine. I drilled the manifold and tapped it for 1/8 Pipe threads. I then could thread in a compression adapter to use with a piece of steel line up to the choke thermostatic spring. Check at NAPA, they sell rubber hose caps that can be used to cap off unused vacumn ports. The pack of caps that I bought, had several different sizes included.

07-06-2011, 01:43 AM	#1
'59Edsel Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Los Angeles County Posts: 124	Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! Hello everyone, I've got a 1959 Edsel Ranger with a 292 engine and a Ford two barrel 2100 carburetor. Just last week I had my carburetor rebuilt by a professional who specializes in for 2100 carbs. But my baby still won't run right! I'm young and inexperienced, so can all of you look at the video I shot of me trying to get this engine going and tell me what you think the next step would be in getting this thing purring like a kitten? I'm not sure what to look at next. Maybe some trained ears and eyes can tell me someone mine can't. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZW5RE7ADrc Thanks everyone!

07-06-2011, 04:03 AM	#2
54mainlinetim Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 49	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! not for sure but might not be getting constant fuel ,after you get it running have you tryed gunning the gas? if it dies out quick id say fuel problem ,i would replace your fuel pump and fuel filter to see if it helps plus you will have a piece of mind that you have replaced those parts. and is your gas still turning pink from gas tank?if so that might be a problem Last edited by 54mainlinetim; 07-06-2011 at 07:02 AM.

07-06-2011, 04:39 PM	#4
frank long island Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: westbury ny Posts: 854	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! possibly when the tank was resealed the fuel outlet was downsized by sealer this is whats great about old cars

07-06-2011, 05:41 PM	#5
darrell Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: p.e.i. Posts: 1,060	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! have you taken the engine for a good run.have you adjusted the idle screws.

07-06-2011, 05:58 PM	#6
46yblock Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: S. Oregon Posts: 304	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I looked at a compilation of Holley carburetors, and it shows in '59 that an Edsel with 292 was supplied with a Holley 2300 2V. Which 2100 do you have? ID is one of three ways: Metal tag with numbers, numbers stamped on side of front foot (forget which side), and the number inside a circle cast into the outside of the float bowl chamber signifying the venturi size. 2100s with a 1.02 or 1.08 venturi would fit your application. Is there a vacuum leak? Checking for a leak at the base gasket can be done with carb cleaner sprayed at carb base, engine running. If engine picks up speed you found a leak. Has the engine run well with this carb previously? Good tuneup? Is the automatic hot air choke connected properly (if not a vacuum leak can result)? Vacuum line connected to the dist. vacuum advance? Is the dist. vacuum advance working? To check remove hose from carb, suck on end of hose while looking at dist. with cap off. Points should rotate with the vaccuum. While still sucking crimp hose tightly, and points shouldnt move until the hose is uncrimped. Idle needles are set at 1 1/2 turns out initially, and then adjusted. My speakers are out of order so couldnt listen to the video. Take off the air cleaner and while looking down into carb throat, see if there are two equal streams of gas shooting out when you manually give it throttle (engine off). This lets you know if the accelerator pump is working. Start engine with AC still off and look for overflowing gas out the tops of the overflow tubes. There shouldnt be any. If there is it is a stuck float needle valve, probably from debris (hope you put on a new gas filter). Examine the sides and beneath the carb for signs of gas, again shouldnt be any. Here is a pic of a 2100 showing the three IDs mentioned. The tag, the circle showing just above the accelerator pump link, and barely seen is the stamped number on foot in front of throttle lever stop. __________________ Mike, S. Oregon 46 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Merc Meteor S33, '54 Ford 600 tractor, '64 Falcon Futura, 1960 Thunderbird Last edited by 46yblock; 07-06-2011 at 06:43 PM. Reason: adding pic

07-06-2011, 07:35 PM	#8
46yblock Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: S. Oregon Posts: 304	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! Your autolite was used on 58-59 Fairlanes, and very well may have come as original equipment on the Edsel. It has the 1.02 venturi which was standard for 292s, though a little undersized. Best of luck. __________________ Mike, S. Oregon 46 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Merc Meteor S33, '54 Ford 600 tractor, '64 Falcon Futura, 1960 Thunderbird

07-06-2011, 09:34 PM	#9
parklane Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St.Thomas, ON Canada Posts: 598	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! If the car suddenly ran crappy, and rebuilding the carb didn't change anything, me thinks that the problem is elsewhere. JMHO __________________ If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly

07-06-2011, 10:19 PM	#11
Fordestes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 886	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! set the choke on , and at high idle see if it will stay running , open choke have an assistant try to keep idle just high enough to stay running (if possible) get a spray can of wd 40,ray around base of carb and intake manifold if eng. starts to level out the problem is vacuum leak, check and block all vacuum hoses see if anything changes, check point setting and check timing , put vacuume gauge on manifold , see what vacuum reads, had an old y block jump time once,it ran like crap.

07-06-2011, 10:22 PM	#12
'59Edsel Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Los Angeles County Posts: 124	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! Thanks for the help guys, I think I'll check for vacuum leaks first. Last edited by '59Edsel; 07-07-2011 at 02:31 AM.

07-07-2011, 02:33 PM	#13
Bill Steiner Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 263	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! If it is what I call a two barrel Ford. The brass tubes can fall out of the secondary venture. Take out the acell . nozzle and it should have two small ones inside two large ones. Bill

07-07-2011, 05:46 PM	#14
'59Edsel Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Los Angeles County Posts: 124	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! Does anyone have any good tips on plugging up vacuum ports that aren't being used?

07-07-2011, 08:35 PM	#15
parklane Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St.Thomas, ON Canada Posts: 598	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! You can go to the salvage yard and take some off egines, or maybe try parts store ie: NAPA, Parts quest etc. Did you find a unused port that isn't plugged?? __________________ If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly

07-08-2011, 08:51 AM	#17
tdlmomowers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mansfield, Ohio Posts: 409	Re: Engine Experts, I Need Your Help! I had a broken choke tube on an older Ford FE series engine. I drilled the manifold and tapped it for 1/8 Pipe threads. I then could thread in a compression adapter to use with a piece of steel line up to the choke thermostatic spring. Check at NAPA, they sell rubber hose caps that can be used to cap off unused vacumn ports. The pack of caps that I bought, had several different sizes included.