Flaring Stainless tubing

[HCO41]

I purchased a length of 1/4" stainless tubing from Inline Tube to use for engine compartment lines. I started with the supply line to the oil filter and found the stainless very hard to get a double lap flare on. I have three flaring tools that have worked on steel, copper, and copper nickel tubing but not on the stainless. Tubing was cut with cutoff wheel (to prevent work hardening with dull tubing cutter), and ID and OD was beveled as recommended. My flaring tools are probably worn some and the stainless looks to be slipping in the jaws. I have looked into replacing all of my flaring tools with a hydraulic unit from Mastercool. The set I'm considering is PN 71300.
Has anyone got any experience with the Mastercool tool, especially used to flare stainless?

[TJ]

Stainless is too hard for a double flare.

[gmc1941]

You could try taking the annealing out. Not sure it will work, but

[Shoebox]

x2 .......What TJ said.

[37 truck]

I bought 3/16 stainless from Inland Tube, and a deluxe flair tool from Speedway. Used a cut off wheel and beveled the ends. Every flare was perfect! My old flare tool couldn't begin to flare the stainless.

[HCO41]

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TJ and Shoebox, It appears that, in fact, stainless tubing CAN be double lap flared. ALL the suppliers of custom fit stainless replacement lines prepare them with double lap flares. See Inline Tube product catalog.
GMC1941, I have never heard of "taking the annealing out". I hope you mean to anneal (soften) the material which is a criteria for some of the tools when using with stainless.

[woodiewagon46]

Not to start a s--t storm but I have always been under the impression that stainless steel tubing could not be double flared. I plumbed both my cars with SS tube and A-N fittings and had zero problems. I was always told by several suppliers that steel tube was for double flare and SS used A-N fittings.

[scooder]

Always used to was single 37% flare on stainless. Maybe they've changed the spec now?
Martin.

[cmbrucew]

I believe we had to buy better tooling to double flare SS tube.
OTC I think, then we still messed up some tube.

Bruce

[Mart]

Why bother with stainless? You're not going to rust out an oil supply line.

Get some kunifer or cupro nickel tube. It was mentioned on a recent thread here (or it might have been the hamb). You can get it in the USA.

Mart.

[HCO41]

Seems to be a lot of opinions on double lap flaring SS. All I can say is, look at the Inline Tube catalog and, believe what you see or not. They DO sell double lap flared SS lines for hundreds of fuel and brake applications both modern and vintage vehicles.
The 37 degree flare is used with AN, (Army/Navy), fittings, the flare seat being at the end of male threaded fittings. Parker was an early producer of this type. It appears most 37 degree flares need only be single lap because there is a support sleeve that strain reliefs the tube. I have found none of these type on my Fords.
All flared fittings on my Fords are SAE 45 degrees with the seat at the base of female threads. My original thread was an effort to get input regarding double lap flaring of SS tubing and what tool(s) have worked to get the job done.
Mart, my reason for using stainless wasn't up for discussion. I'm familiar with the alternatives! I promise I won't question any decisions you make regarding what you do on your cars!
Howard

[Mart]

Lol!

Ok, fair enough.

That's me told!

Mart.

[BILL WZOREK]

Originally Posted by HCO41

I'm familiar with the alternatives! I promise I won't question any decisions you make regarding what you do on your cars !
Howard

Howard I dont think Mart was attacking what you were doing with your Stainless tubing or your car, I read it as he was letting you know that there was other products out there if the DOUBLE FLARING of the tube was the most important thing that you wanted to do.

[HCO41]

Bill, this could go on forever. If you and Mart had read my original thread, you would see that I mentioned my previous use of alternative tubing when referencing the use of the flaring tools I currently have. As I said, my choice to use SS was never in question, just looking for others experience using it.
Thank you cmbrucew for the lead to the OTC tool. This is the input I was looking for. I'll check it out.
Howard

[Ol' Ron]

Howard
I tried double flaring some SS tubing back a while and couldn't do it with the tooling I had. Settled for a single flair.

[john in illinois]

I have an eastwood flaring tool and it is the best I have used. I have only done steel lines,but it is listed for double flair stainless.Plus it looks like it is on sale.

LINK http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

John

[HCO41]

Hey Ron, good to hear from you. I had the same problem with the KD and Armstrong flaring tools I have. I was able to get one double lap by tapping on the clamp after snugging it up, taking up the slack and tapping it again until I got the first step done. I then removed the double lap pin and was able to tighten the clamp to finish up, good flare but PITA process.
JohninIllinois, I will check out the Eastwood tool. I've had good luck with their products in the past.
Howard

[rotorwrench]

We never double flare SS tubing in the aircraft industry. It is relatively thick walled and the stuff will eventually crack there. The turbine engines have SS tube for fuel, pneumatic, and lubrication transfer and none are double flared. On one of the engines I work on regularly, we have to remove and inspect one particular line every 100-hours to insure it isn't cracked and it doesn't have a double flare on either end for good reason.

On the airframe side we seldom use SS but more often 5052 aluminum tube. We don't double flare those either.

Automotive brake systems are the most common use for double flare with 45 degree fittings. If they manufacture SS tubing with a thin enough wall it can be successfully double flared without cracking, at least not until fatigue sets in. The fittings for brake lines don't protect the flared ends all that well. I would hesitate to use it myself. The stuff is a pain to work with. Coated steel is very easy to work with by comparison.

[HCO41]

Now we're cookin'. Thanks rotowrench! I wanted to replace the rusted lines in the engine compartment, input and output to oil filter and fuel pump to carbureter and auto choke (Rochester 2GC, Merc. IT) heat tube.
Is the main concern the tendency for the stainless to crack??
I've been looking at all the suggested quality tools and have decided to order one of the Mastercool flaring tools. I selected the Mastercool because of its portability over those that required vise mounting.
I'll follow up with how it works.
Howard

[woodiewagon46]

Stainless steel is only prone to cracking if you "work harden" the piece. When I plumbed my cars with SS, I thought I was smart and purchased a brand new wheel for my tubing cutter. The first two 37 degree flares cracked. I called Godman High Performance and told them what was happening and they said by rolling the tubing cutter around the tube I was "work Hardening" it. I switched to a fine hacksaw and de-burred the inside and none split after his advice. Give them a call for SS tube and any type fitting you can imagine.