40 Ford Coup Hood Alignment

[Scott De Shields]

The time has finally come to start installing the front sheet metal on my coupe. From everything I have read this will probably be a long tedious right of passage to owning a 40 Ford. Will document the work as I go and would appreciate any tips.

[Scott De Shields]

By the way, the front sheet metal has never been correctly aligned for as long as I can remember.

[Ken/Alabama]

The first thing I do is to make the hood fit the cowl ,then adjust the fenders and grill to fit the hood. If the hood seems to have a wide gap across the top of the cowl the hinges needs to be loosened and slide them UP this will allow the arms to swing further back before the hood comes to rest . Another thing I have done is slot the rear hinge hole in the body with a round file to give more adjustment . I do all this without the spring arms attached, just use a broom handle as a prop. I do this so I will know if the hood is not aligning its in the hinge and not the spring arms holding it off.

[Billgmitchell]

Scott, Mike Kubarth who I believe is the foremost authority on all matters related to 40 Fords posted this response to a similar question I had:

Anyone that's restored a '40 Ford knows the trials and tribulations of installing and properly aligning the front sheetmetal.

We all know that the factory alignment was usually quite poor. It's true there is (was) little room for adjustment when these vehicles were new.
Please understand I remain in a constant learning process and am certain there are various ways of properly aligning the sheet metal. However, the way I'll describe has worked for me on numerous occasions with wonderful results.

I start the front sheet metal alignment only when I am completely satisfied with the door alignment. If you're restoring a convertible, it's a MUST that the top be completely installed (in the up position) and functioning as well.
Running boards are not on the vehicle at this time. It is FAR easier to install them later and adjust the rear fenders to the boards.
It is in my opinion, imperative that the hood be installed and aligned to the cowl prior to any fender(s) / grille work is installed. Take your time at this step. It is important that you have good hinges and springs. There should be no wear at any of the pivot points. If there is, the adjustments will be (more) difficult at best and the alignment will not last.
Be careful that the gap is even from side to side both along the top (between the hood and top of the cowl) and each hood side. Be certain the same amount of gap exists between the hood and the cowl. The height of the hood should be even with the cowl. Remember that a persons eye will be drawn naturally to the side of the vehicle and especially to the straightness of the trim and body line. It is imperative that these lines are straight! Bottom line -- the hood MUST BE CORRECTLY aligned. Take your time and get it RIGHT! Before moving on tighten all attaching points. There should be no need readjust the hood later.


Prior to installing the fenders I elongate and enlarge the four clearance holes that will be used to bolt the fender to the lower cowl.* Also at this time I enlarge the four holes in the front of the fender that the grille will later bolt through.*
The grille should be a complete assembly PRIOR to installation. This is important as there is no allowance for adjustment within the grille assembly. Originally the stainless strips at each side of the grille (Deluxe only) were stapled to the sheet metal louvers. Doing this makes the installation a bit neater and positively easier. On concourse vehicles be certain to use round wire staples. Flat staples were not used in 1940.

Now it's time to install the inner fender panel to the respective fender. Prior to this installation enlarge the clearance hole at the bottom (near center) of the inner fender panel.* This hole will be used later to bolt the inner fender to the frame directly next to the brake hose bracket. Be certain to enlarge the correct hole. Of the two holes in this area one will contain a grommet while the other is intended as a clearance hole for the fastener. There is a caged nut on the inner frame to accept this bolt/washer assembly. Bolt the inner panel to the fender at the top using the special flat carriage bolts. Tighten all securely. On concourse vehicles a thin webbing material is required between the fender and inner panel.


Now's the fun part!
WITH HELP, install a fender / inner panel assembly. Loosely install the nut/bolt assembly through the 'Y' brace to the inner panel. Install (snug -- not tight) the four bolt / washer assemblies at the lower bottom of the fender to the caged nuts within the cowl. Now install the other fender.
Again, WITH HELP, using the eight nut / bolt / washer assemblies install the grille assembly between the two fenders. Again, snug -- not tight.
Now's the (not) fun part!
There is no easy way to do the remaining aligning. However, patience is an absolute must! Do not be surprised if this takes two, even three evenings. I tend to 'walk away' when I become frustrated.
Slowly and methodically push / pull / tug on the fenders and grille assembly until you are somewhat satisfied with the alignment. Keep a careful eye at the horizontal gap between the hood and the grille (top) as well as the vertical alignment of the hood to grille.
Tighten the bolts at the grille / fenders just a bit more at this time. Recheck all the gaps. If you remain satisfied move on to the four bolts at the lower fender edge / cowl. Tighten these a bit more too. Do the other fender.
Continue to recheck all the gaps after tightening each area.**
Tighten the bolt / nut assemblies at the 'Y' brace. Again, check all of the gaps to be certain nothing has moved.
If you remain satisfied with the entire alignment it's time to tighten all fasteners securely. If you are not satisfied you should be able to push / pull at the fenders as thus far the attachment points are only snug. Remember, "snug -- not tight"? This allows the sheet metal to be moved a bit into place and hold it there prior to firmly securing the fasteners.
If this tightening causes the fenders to pull in too much it is practical to install a thin washer between the fender panel(s) and brace. On reproduction panels I've found it necessary to enlarge this hole (inner panel) just a bit.
Lastly, install the lower radiator air deflector. It may be necessary to enlarge a hole or two in this pan. Not to worry -- all are covered by the proper fasteners.


* I enlarge the holes to 1/2" and elongate approximately 1/8" on either side of each hole. The elongation should follow the curve of the fender. Remember that all these holes will be completely covered by the correct body washers.
**If any gap should change after a specific area has been secured you know with certainty which area caused the effect. You may need to elongate a hole or two in that area a bit more. There should be NO binding at any attachment points.

[Scott De Shields]

Thanks for the feed back Bill. Your information will help me when its time to install the front clip after the hood is dialed in (everything seems to revolve around the hood placement). Ken the broomstick prop with the spring/hinge sounds like a good idea. Would you use it to keep the hood open or to establish a stop for the hood when it is closed?

[1931 flamingo]

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I believe 6 or 7 yrs ago, don't quote me as I have CRS , there was an article in Street Rodder mag by Frank Oddo on aligning the front of a 40. Maybe someone else will chime in with the date.

Paul in CT

[Scott De Shields]

Well I got closer to the elusive hood alignment when a rivet broke on the spring hinge and cut the back of my hand (not too bad). I hate rivets, thinking of cutting them out and replacing with shoulder bolts.

[Scott De Shields]

Got rid of the rivets and upgraded to shoulder bolts. Here are a few pictures of my first day

[john worden]

Thanks for all the info here. I will have a 40 to do soon. My last experience was on a 41. If you've noticed the most visible alignment problem seems to be that the hoods don't sit down far enough at the cowl to allow the hood side stainless to line up with the cowl stainless. Any tips for moving the hood DOWN AT THE COWL? john

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Scott De Shields

Thanks for the feed back Bill. Your information will help me when its time to install the front clip after the hood is dialed in (everything seems to revolve around the hood placement). Ken the broomstick prop with the spring/hinge sounds like a good idea. Would you use it to keep the hood open or to establish a stop for the hood when it is closed?

Just to prop the hood open till everything fits.

[01aford]

I agree will Bill: "It is important that you have good hinges and springs. There should be no wear at any of the pivot points. If there is, the adjustments will be (more) difficult at best and the alignment will not last."

The repop hinges are not good. The bends are a bit different. I bought 2 new hinges and both did not work. I got a pair of NOS and they worked great.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

I believe 6 or 7 yrs ago, don't quote me as I have CRS , there was an article in Street Rodder mag by Frank Oddo on aligning the front of a 40. Maybe someone else will chime in with the date.

Paul in CT

There were two articles. HANGIN' THE '40 FRONT END , Feb 1996 Street Rodder Mag and Conquering Grill Gaposis by Frank Odo in Street Rodder Mag, June 1998. I can email them to you if you desire. Just send me a PM with your email address.

[1931 flamingo]

19Fordy: Thanks!! I knew I'd seen that.

Paul in CT

[19Fordy]

I assembled my front hood and sheet metal all by my little old self back in 1988 before such helpful info. was published. It's not a perfect fit, but I'm still using the original hood hinges in spite of the 1964 accident. To make the front hood latch "catch" I had to cut the two top rubber bumpers in the photo. The hood fit between the cowl and the back edge of the hood is about 3/8 ' and 1/4" on the side cowl fender/hood area. If I ever have to do it again I would follow the suggestions in the articles. Be sure an install the little rubber bumpers where they belong.

[1940 Gal]

Dear 19Fordy, We are just finishing the exterior of our 1940 5-Window Deluxe Ford Coupe and are having a time getting the hood to line up. Is your offer to send the two articles "Grille Gaposis" and "Hanging the '40 Front end still open. If so, it would be appreciated. Please tell me how I could get these articles. 1940 Gal

[296 V8]

40 gal
You should click his name send a message .... this thread is a year old

[joel]

Looks good to me!

[joel]

Got me too, I gotta learn to watch the dates. Good info!

[white64]

are the bolts on the hood hinges where they attach to the hood at the six places, all shouldered bolts?

I have what are said to be the hinge bolts, 1/4 bolts with safety wire head, and spring washers, these bolts are w/o shoulders, are these the right ones?

[19Fordy]

I can't recall for sure, but I think that the little bolt (upper left in first photo) is a shoulder bolt and must be just the exact correct length. I do remember it's 28 threads per inch. If too long, it will put a bump (reverse dimple) on the exterior hood sheet metal. The other 2 bolts may also be shoulder bolts, but not sure. I used a Nylock style nut to prevent loosening. This is not to AACA standards. Others with more recent expertise hopefully,will respond. I don't remember if wave washers were also OEM like in later 50's cars. In any case, you don't want any of those bolts to "unscrew" or "wear through" and your hood comes crashing down into your cowl. Lube is your friend.