Preparing to install Glove Box Radio

[FrankWest]

I have a restored Ford Glove box radio and I am getting ready to install it. in my 1933 model B fordor.
I have the service bulletins that provide the technical information of this install but I am wondering if anyone out there in FordBarnLand had installed a glove box radio. Usually hands on information and experience is the difference between starting off on the right foot. Any information would be greatly appreciated in preparing the install. I know how to take the glove box door off, the inside of the glove book seems to be lined with Cardboard? I think it is original and has not been messed with. I guess for openers can you used existing holes of does it requiring drilling?
Thanks

[Karl]

Frank I'm about to do the same thing in my 1934 - Do you have the brackets to install it? Kevin Koates has kindly sent me pictures of the brackets required and I am currently fabricating the same -Karl

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Karl

Frank I'm about to do the same thing in my 1934 - Do you have the brackets to install it? Kevin Koates has kindly sent me pictures of the brackets required and I am currently fabricating the same -Karl

No..I guess I should study the service bulletins..
I expect too much...That it could just be bolted to the glove box frame..
But, I should have known..The radio is very heavy and must need beefed up support brackets.
I am glad that I found someone else doing this ..maybe we can work together and help each other especially if we encounter problem areas.

I assume that these brackets are not available on the market and need to be custom fabricated.

Maybe we will be the only guys out there with Vacuum tube radios!

[Karl]

Unfortunately there is little written about installing the Glovebox radio most of it relates to the Ashtray model. Tonight when I'm on my home computer I will post pictures of the bracket and mounting instructions -Karl

[Terry,OH]

These are not my photos but were posted previously here on fordbarn. I believe the rear brace attaches to one of the firewall insulation bolts.

[koates]

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The rear radio bracket does not attach to any existing firewall insulation bolts but does require a new mounting hole to be drilled through the insulation and the horizontal panel of the firewall. Also the radio requires the original facia panel to be fitted in front of the radio which takes the place of the glove box door. These seem to be missing from most radios which come up for sale and are quite hard to find today. A reproduction facia panel used to be available but did not fit very well and required some reworking to be any good. Karl will be a good boy I expect and send you the photos and drawing with bracket dimensions I sent him last week. Your car should still have the chicken wire antenna in the roof with the lead in cable coming down the front pillar and coiled up behind the top of the kick panel.

[koates]

Frank , also I presume your car is left hand drive, Therefore the antenna cable will be down the right side front pillar or passenger side. You also need the special power supply plug which plugs into the back of the radio, it only has one wire with the metal in line fuseholder in it even though there are four pins on the plug. Make sure you test that the radio works before fitting it to the car. You don't want to have to pull it out again. Lots to learn here before you even attempt to fit your radio. Also suppressors will have to be fitted to each spark plug lead end on each of the four cylinders (in your case) to eliminate and RF interference from the ignition system, and maybe a condenser on the generator and ignition coil power terminal as well. Regards, Kevin.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by koates

Frank , also I presume your car is left hand drive, Therefore the antenna cable will be down the right side front pillar or passenger side. You also need the special power supply plug which plugs into the back of the radio, it only has one wire with the metal in line fuseholder in it even though there are four pins on the plug. Make sure you test that the radio works before fitting it to the car. You don't want to have to pull it out again. Lots to learn here before you even attempt to fit your radio. Also suppressors will have to be fitted to each spark plug lead end on each of the four cylinders (in your case) to eliminate and RF interference from the ignition system, and maybe a condenser on the generator and ignition coil power terminal as well. Regards, Kevin.

Yes, typical USA left hand steering wheel.
I have the face plate..an original I was happy to find.. I have already repainted it the same color as the glovebox door.
Great suggestions already......It seems like a long project. Just the thing I will work on during the winter months.
Thanks so much for your expertise... You are the greatest !

I greatly appreciate your assistance. I chose the glove box radio because it was proper for 1933.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by koates

Frank , also I presume your car is left hand drive, Therefore the antenna cable will be down the right side front pillar or passenger side. You also need the special power supply plug which plugs into the back of the radio, it only has one wire with the metal in line fuseholder in it even though there are four pins on the plug. Make sure you test that the radio works before fitting it to the car. You don't want to have to pull it out again. Lots to learn here before you even attempt to fit your radio. Also suppressors will have to be fitted to each spark plug lead end on each of the four cylinders (in your case) to eliminate and RF interference from the ignition system, and maybe a condenser on the generator and ignition coil power terminal as well. Regards, Kevin.

I bought special model A antique replica spark plugs that boast electronic noise suppression...But I will have to see if that is true..And then I will be happy to fit plug noise suppressors on each plug. I also purchase a suppressor for the generator...Not sure how the electronic noise suppression gear I have will pan out but will be happy when I get to that point. Thanks again!!!

[Karl]

Frank Sorry computer problem last night -The stuff will be coming to you tonight -Karl

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Karl

Frank Sorry computer problem last night -The stuff will be coming to you tonight -Karl

Thanks for your help...no hurry, I am just assembling all the info and planning my next step.

[Marvin/TN]

I have one but never installed it, maybe that was because I do not have a 33 or 34, you think. There is a plate that takes the place of the glove box with holes for the dial and knobs. I think the face plate bolts where the holes are around the glove box opening. I also think there is a place for a hook on the back of the radio to go somewhere under the dash. It's been awhile since I even looked at this radio so memory about all of this may not be exactly right. But you are right they are very heavy.

[hotrodcbx]

I am currently installing a glove box radio in my '33 roadster. This is what I have learned so far.

1/ There is a "S" shaped bracket that attaches to the bracket mounted on the radio. This bracket attaches to the flat (horizontal) section of the firewall. I do not have one but will fabricate one. The biggest problem is supporting the radio to do accurate measurements.

2/ I have an original radio face plate which attaches to the radio face with all appropriate holes for the dial and 2 knobs. There are two screws which are on the radio face at about the 2 and 7 o'clock positions. I believe these screws go through the faceplate to firmly attach the radio and faceplate. I do no understand why my original faceplate did not have these holes, possibly done at the dealer.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by hotrodcbx

I am currently installing a glove box radio in my '33 roadster. This is what I have learned so far.

1/ There is a "S" shaped bracket that attaches to the bracket mounted on the radio. This bracket attaches to the flat (horizontal) section of the firewall. I do not have one but will fabricate one. The biggest problem is supporting the radio to do accurate measurements.

2/ I have an original radio face plate which attaches to the radio face with all appropriate holes for the dial and 2 knobs. There are two screws which are on the radio face at about the 2 and 7 o'clock positions. I believe these screws go through the faceplate to firmly attach the radio and faceplate. I do no understand why my original faceplate did not have these holes, possibly done at the dealer.

Strange! I have an original faceplate too and it lacks the screw holes that are on the radio itself. There are 4 brackets on the face plate that seem to attach back into the radio or the glove box itself? They are subatantial brackets...Maybe the faceplace should not be drilled?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by koates

Also suppressors will have to be fitted to each spark plug lead end on each of the four cylinders (in your case) to eliminate and RF interference from the ignition system, and maybe a condenser on the generator and ignition coil power terminal as well. Regards, Kevin.

To my amazement, the original tube type radio in my '34 no longer requires any special noise suppressors. I had it repaired several years ago and its original vibrator was replaced with solid state vibrator and several capacitors were replaced. The tubes checked out fine at that time and were not replaced. I have no suppressors at the spark plugs or the generator nor anywhere else. Mine is the ashtray radio and is hooked up to the original antenna lead from the roof mesh. It plays static free with the engine running....

[koates]

hotrodcbx, The 2 screws in the front of the glove box radio box around close to the dial perimeter DO NOT go through the front facia panel. The only holes in the front facia panel are the large dial hole and the two control knob holes. The two screws in the front of the radio box hold the front box panel and dial together. To fit the radio, mount it into the dash panel having first bolted in the facia plate with its four screws from the back which were originally used to mount the glove box liner. Sit the radio up into position with the two control knobs in place and prop the radio box up using a piece of wood with some padding between the bottom edge of the radio box and the cars floor. Along the bottom edge of the dash panel are two slotted holes which require two metal thread screws with flat washers to be screwed vertically upwards into the threaded holes in the radio box. Once this is all "sitting" in its correct position the rear "S" shaped support bracket on the back of the radio box can be bolted to the rear bracket on the radio and the place to bolt the "S" bracket vertical threaded stud can be marked out and drilled. This is all a little bit awkward to do if you are 76 years old and a bit overweight so you might need some help from a fit younger person to do all of this. A washer and nut is threaded onto that stud where it comes through the horizontal panel of the firewall from under the engine hood. Easy as pie, LOL. Take your time when doing this job because its quite fiddley that's for sure. Regards, Kevin.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

To my amazement, the original tube type radio in my '34 no longer requires any special noise suppressors. I had it repaired several years ago and its original vibrator was replaced with solid state vibrator and several capacitors were replaced. The tubes checked out fine at that time and were not replaced. I have no suppressors at the spark plugs or the generator nor anywhere else. Mine is the ashtray radio and is hooked up to the original antenna lead from the roof mesh. It plays static free with the engine running....

Attached is a link to the spark plugs with electronic noise suppression..
I have a 1933 model B 4 cylinder

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by koates

hotrodcbx, The 2 screws in the front of the glove box radio box around close to the dial perimeter DO NOT go through the front facia panel. The only holes in the front facia panel are the large dial hole and the two control knob holes. The two screws in the front of the radio box hold the front box panel and dial together. To fit the radio, mount it into the dash panel having first bolted in the facia plate with its four screws from the back which were originally used to mount the glove box liner. Sit the radio up into position with the two control knobs in place and prop the radio box up using a piece of wood with some padding between the bottom edge of the radio box and the cars floor. Along the bottom edge of the dash panel are two slotted holes which require two metal thread screws with flat washers to be screwed vertically upwards into the threaded holes in the radio box. Once this is all "sitting" in its correct position the rear "S" shaped support bracket on the back of the radio box can be bolted to the rear bracket on the radio and the place to bolt the "S" bracket vertical threaded stud can be marked out and drilled. This is all a little bit awkward to do if you are 76 years old and a bit overweight so you might need some help from a fit younger person to do all of this. A washer and nut is threaded onto that stud where it comes through the horizontal panel of the firewall from under the engine hood. Easy as pie, LOL. Take your time when doing this job because its quite fiddley that's for sure. Regards, Kevin.

Thanks a million Kevin!

[gearhead1952]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Maybe we will be the only guys out there with Vacuum tube radios!

I love the tube radios and have rebuilt several for the F1 trucks. Have a deluxe unit in my 52 pickup and one ready to go into my 52 panel. Also have a stash of the 33-34 radios to be gone through. My 33-34s will have one. We have really only one station on the am dial worth listening to and it is mid dial and an oldies station. All I need.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by koates

Frank , also I presume your car is left hand drive, Therefore the antenna cable will be down the right side front pillar or passenger side. You also need the special power supply plug which plugs into the back of the radio, it only has one wire with the metal in line fuseholder in it even though there are four pins on the plug. Make sure you test that the radio works before fitting it to the car. You don't want to have to pull it out again. Lots to learn here before you even attempt to fit your radio. Also suppressors will have to be fitted to each spark plug lead end on each of the four cylinders (in your case) to eliminate and RF interference from the ignition system, and maybe a condenser on the generator and ignition coil power terminal as well. Regards, Kevin.

It is a good suggestion to test the radio before going to the trouble to bolt it into the car. I plan to sit the radio directly beneath the glove box and wire it in the car...Power and antenna.
It will also give me an opportunity to see if the antenna wire is still good.
My 1933 model B has the factory circuit board with One fuse. Do I connect my power to this fuse board. According to the service bullion the Zenith radio should have a fuse in its power line? I have that at least. That is the thin black wire with lug connector at the end. I am not sure what the thicker wire is with strange connector. Chassis Ground Connection? I will have to open the radio up to see where it goes. Ans where is the antenna wire?
I guess I will be able to find that too when I open the radio up.
Thanks for all your help Kevin.