The Ford Barn

m.ralph · 07-29-2015, 12:43 AM

Joined: Nov 6, 2009
Posts: 229 Profile Page

m.ralph Member
from Houston,Texas

I'm building a 1932 Ford chassis with a 1937 Ford flathead, transmission , and rear end. I'm using American Stamping boxed frame, I installed a "X member(from Clarke Hot Rods - Florida) with brake & clutch pedals. I wanted to get some ideas on clutch linkage. I do not want to use a hydraulic slave cylinder. Prefer to use mechanical linkage. I will enclose photos tomorrow of the brake & clutch pedal installed on the X-member. I was thinking of using a cross shaft behind the master cylinder with a long shaft to push back with forward travel to push the clutch arm. But open to other ideas. Thanks for any help. Photos would be helpful. m.ralph

deuce_roadster · 07-29-2015, 09:41 AM

If you are using stock pedals, use stock linkage. If aftermarket, copy the stock linkage by welding an arm to the top of the pedal like the stock pedal, use a 32 arm on the transmission shaft.

Andy · 07-29-2015, 10:01 AM

I would use the 40-48 stock linkage. It is more easily adapted to fix alignment and ratio problems. It is also immune to clutch chatter. That is what I have in my 32. You can shorten or lengthen the cross shaft and the arm on the cross shaft can be redrilled if the ratio is off. Works perfect.

deuce_roadster · 07-29-2015, 10:07 AM

Andy, how is 40-48 linkage immune to clutch chatter? I'm curious.

Andy · 07-29-2015, 10:18 AM

It is like the linkage used on modern cars(57 Chevy). The engine can move fore and aft and not change the clutch position becaust the end of the cross shaft is fixed on the pedal end. The engine end can move all it wants as the rotation of the cross shaft does not change. If you have a bad clutch it will still chatter. This just fixes the likage problem.

deuce_roadster · 07-29-2015, 02:19 PM

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Thanks Andy, I guess I have never had a clutch chatter due to the linkage. (I have 2 32s, and a 33.

Andy · 07-29-2015, 02:40 PM

The steady rods keep the engine from moving around so the stock linkage works fine.

Kahuna · 07-29-2015, 03:13 PM

Hey Andy
I have an open driveline in my 32. Occasionally, I will get some clutch chatter in reverse. I am using the stock 32 pedals and linkage.
Would it help if I installed the steady rods?

Wish we could have chatted more at the LSRU, but you were busy selling all that good stuff.
Regards
Jim

m.ralph · 07-30-2015, 12:14 AM

Joined: Nov 6, 2009
Posts: 230 Profile Page

m.ralph Member
from Houston, Texas

Thanks to everyone that responded. Andy were you meaning to use a 1940/48 pedal assembly with the same linkage?

Andy · 07-30-2015, 12:25 PM

m.ralph, I used a complete set of 40-48 pedals and linkage in my 32 with a stock K member and a side shift. I knew I was going to have to start from scratch, so no need to modify 32 stuff. It works great. I made a bracket that moved the pedals over and extended it to hold the ball for the cross shaft. The cross shaft was shortened so the pedal would line up with the cross shaft arm. No mods to the K member. I used orig holes. I think the 40-48 stuff is a lot better and easier to use than than the 39 stuff,
-
Jim, the engine tends to shift from the clutch linkage pushing on it. The steady rods are worthwhile.
Yes, we did not get to visit enough. I wish you could have come by the house. Next time!

07-29-2015, 12:43 AM	#1
m.ralph Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 250	1932 Ford flathead Build Joined: Nov 6, 2009 Posts: 229 Profile Page m.ralph Member from Houston,Texas I'm building a 1932 Ford chassis with a 1937 Ford flathead, transmission , and rear end. I'm using American Stamping boxed frame, I installed a "X member(from Clarke Hot Rods - Florida) with brake & clutch pedals. I wanted to get some ideas on clutch linkage. I do not want to use a hydraulic slave cylinder. Prefer to use mechanical linkage. I will enclose photos tomorrow of the brake & clutch pedal installed on the X-member. I was thinking of using a cross shaft behind the master cylinder with a long shaft to push back with forward travel to push the clutch arm. But open to other ideas. Thanks for any help. Photos would be helpful. m.ralph

07-29-2015, 09:41 AM	#2
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build If you are using stock pedals, use stock linkage. If aftermarket, copy the stock linkage by welding an arm to the top of the pedal like the stock pedal, use a 32 arm on the transmission shaft.

07-29-2015, 10:01 AM	#3
Andy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kerrville, Tx Posts: 2,771	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build I would use the 40-48 stock linkage. It is more easily adapted to fix alignment and ratio problems. It is also immune to clutch chatter. That is what I have in my 32. You can shorten or lengthen the cross shaft and the arm on the cross shaft can be redrilled if the ratio is off. Works perfect.

07-29-2015, 10:07 AM	#4
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build Andy, how is 40-48 linkage immune to clutch chatter? I'm curious.

07-29-2015, 10:18 AM	#5
Andy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kerrville, Tx Posts: 2,771	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build It is like the linkage used on modern cars(57 Chevy). The engine can move fore and aft and not change the clutch position becaust the end of the cross shaft is fixed on the pedal end. The engine end can move all it wants as the rotation of the cross shaft does not change. If you have a bad clutch it will still chatter. This just fixes the likage problem.

07-29-2015, 02:19 PM	#6
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks Andy, I guess I have never had a clutch chatter due to the linkage. (I have 2 32s, and a 33.

07-29-2015, 02:40 PM	#7
Andy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kerrville, Tx Posts: 2,771	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build The steady rods keep the engine from moving around so the stock linkage works fine.

07-29-2015, 03:13 PM	#8
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build Hey Andy I have an open driveline in my 32. Occasionally, I will get some clutch chatter in reverse. I am using the stock 32 pedals and linkage. Would it help if I installed the steady rods? Wish we could have chatted more at the LSRU, but you were busy selling all that good stuff. Regards Jim

07-30-2015, 12:14 AM	#9
m.ralph Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 250	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build Joined: Nov 6, 2009 Posts: 230 Profile Page m.ralph Member from Houston, Texas Thanks to everyone that responded. Andy were you meaning to use a 1940/48 pedal assembly with the same linkage?

07-30-2015, 12:25 PM	#10
Andy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kerrville, Tx Posts: 2,771	Re: 1932 Ford flathead Build m.ralph, I used a complete set of 40-48 pedals and linkage in my 32 with a stock K member and a side shift. I knew I was going to have to start from scratch, so no need to modify 32 stuff. It works great. I made a bracket that moved the pedals over and extended it to hold the ball for the cross shaft. The cross shaft was shortened so the pedal would line up with the cross shaft arm. No mods to the K member. I used orig holes. I think the 40-48 stuff is a lot better and easier to use than than the 39 stuff, - Jim, the engine tends to shift from the clutch linkage pushing on it. The steady rods are worthwhile. Yes, we did not get to visit enough. I wish you could have come by the house. Next time!