Adjustable Drag Link

[bnchief]

I pm'd machine girl about her cnc machined set-up but have not heard anything guess she is not doing them now.

[dmaxweb]

This thread describes 2 designs for an adjustable drag link
(a) 18" tie rod stock (solid 11/16") with 2 tie rod ends
(b) Original drag link cut in half with 5/8" threaded adjusting sleeve in the middle.

With design (a) the springs on both ends are inboard of the balls. When the drag link is pushed forward by the pitman arm, the pressure between the balls is spring against spring. When the drag link is pulled back, the pressure is solid end cup against solid end cup. Design (b) maintains Fords original where there is aways one spring inboard and one spring outboard no matter if the drag link is pushed forward or pulled back by the pitman arm.

With a spare drag link or a couple of tie rod ends, the time and cost for making either is about the same and pretty small.

Any thoughts on (a) vs. (b) ?

[daren007]

If you have the two tooth steering box this will move the sector off center while driving straight ahead. You will now have play in the steering wheel.

[dmaxweb]

[QUOTE=daren007;1540366]If you have the two tooth steering box this will move the sector off center while driving straight ahead. You will now have play in the steering

Actually, an adjustable drag link is used to remove the play. Assuming the box is set up and adjusted correctly (no slop/no bind at dead center), a slight difference in the radius of a shortened pitman may result in the wheels not pointing straight ahead when the sector is centered on the worm. Adjusting the length of the drag link (it doesn't take much) will get the wheels lined up with the box and give you equal steering wheel left/right turns stop to stop.

[daren007]

I stand corrected.

[Tom Davis]

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Is this adjustable drag link still available? My email is bdavis@scattercreek.com

[katy]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

When I was young I decided to try and cut some left hand threads. After about a day and half I finally figured it out. I was so frustrated I was even working between the wall and lathe and my grandfather would walk by and start laughing. I know, its actually easy once you figure it out. But, until then,,,,,,

I had kind of a similar experience learning to weld. I don't need no stinking helmet !
Ever have a doctor peel your eyes like an onion ?

Learn by the mistakes of others, you'll never live long enough to make them all yourself. Anonymous

[31coupedx]

Originally Posted by machine girl

Attachment 221698 all new cnc machined $140.00 + shipping. inc guts.

Attachment 221699

Is this still available?

[Y-Blockhead]

Machine Girl has not advertised in ~7 years. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135427

[duke36]

Somewhere it was posted that the tie rod ends version can interfere with the steering arms, etc. Cutting and threading with rt. and left hand dies a used drag link and adding the center clamp may be better. The shortened pitman arm will not allow the steering gear and steering wheel to be at the center point for removing freeplay with wheels straight ahead as posted by others.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Machine Girl has not advertised in ~7 years. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135427

His wares are listed on eBay under the name "dav4564d". However, he doesn't have anything listed presently. As noted above he hasn't been on this site for a while, due being kicked off for who knows what reason.

I have one of his adjustable drag links, just waiting to install it when I get a round tuit.

[DBSHELTON]

OK, since I couldn't find an adjustable drag link to buy I measured my drag link at .629". So I ordered a 5/8"-18 left hand die nut (already had a right hand die). and a 5/8" adjusting sleeve. Was thinking about cutting out 1" or 1 1/2" and threading both ends. Anyone done this? Is this about right?

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by DBSHELTON

OK, since I couldn't find an adjustable drag link to buy I measured my drag link at .629". So I ordered a 5/8"-18 left hand die nut (already had a right hand die). and a 5/8" adjusting sleeve. Was thinking about cutting out 1" or 1 1/2" and threading both ends. Anyone done this? Is this about right?

That is exactly what did a number of years ago. I seem to recall I removed 2" out of the middle but I'm not sure. Use the length of the sleeve as a guide for the length of the rod and how much thread. With the steering box set up correctly, the drag length adjustment needed should be very small and I wanted to leave as much of the rod as possible.

Sleeve is a MOOG #ES2032S

[dmaxweb]

Delete duplicate post

[big job]

Here's one I machined for a 49 F8 truck left & right threads all done on my
WWII South Bend lathe ..

[DBSHELTON]

Thanks guys!

[duke36]

Originally Posted by DBSHELTON

OK, since I couldn't find an adjustable drag link to buy I measured my drag link at .629". So I ordered a 5/8"-18 left hand die nut (already had a right hand die). and a 5/8" adjusting sleeve. Was thinking about cutting out 1" or 1 1/2" and threading both ends. Anyone done this? Is this about right?

Have done the one using a Moog adjustable sleeve using the dies as posted on an old extra drag link. Cut enough threads but don't cut out too much of the drag to get the most support from the sleeve. Then fine tune trim the removed drag section as needed.

[wensum]

Originally Posted by machine girl

Attachment 221698 all new cnc machined $140.00 + shipping. inc guts.

Attachment 221699

I bought one off Machine Girl a few years ago when I was unable to get full lock on both sides after fitting a shortened pitman arm. It worked a treat and was an excellent product.