spring perches, castle nuts, and cotter keys

[rer_239]

anybody else have problems with these? got new of each, the problem is that the cotter key fits just fine on one side of the castle nut but it won't slide thru the slot on the other side of the nut. is it because the new ones are made off shore and there off just enough so its not straight? do i have to replace them or is there another way to secure the perches?

[jhowes]

If I understand your problem, I would very carefully file down the slot in the castle nut so that the pin will slide through. Jack

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

There was a whole bunch of spring perches that someone was selling from the northwest on social media and on eBay at a discounted price. Did yours come from that source by chance? We just installed a pair of new perches in an axle this morning that went right together.

[Werner]

Good evening,


I know that problem very well. Therfore I use "LocTite" and make a point with security paint on the conection between srewshaft end and nut.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by rer_239

anybody else have problems with these? got new of each, the problem is that the cotter key fits just fine on one side of the castle nut but it won't slide thru the slot on the other side of the nut. is it because the new ones are made off shore and there off just enough so its not straight? do i have to replace them or is there another way to secure the perches?

You could try an ORIGINAL nut...Bet it would fit then.

Pluck

[jw hash]

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I have run into the same problem, and I just run a drill bit through the hole and install the cotter key,

[rer_239]

Thanks for the ideas, I'll try drilling

[CarlG]

Drilling works for me.

[Roger V]

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

You could try an ORIGINAL nut...Bet it would fit then.

Pluck

The ones I've had that issue with was the hole was not drilled through the center of the perch
as often with U-bolts, not the castle nut slots being off-center.

[swo4rd]

Get original...cannot go wrong.
but it sounds like the hole is not completed through the bolt...
swoff

[katy]

If the hole is reasonably close to centre, drilling it out slightly oversize usually works.

[dmaxweb]

I bought a pair of repro spring perches from one of the vendors about 5 years ago. I'm just now putting them on. When installing them (while rotating king pin) the threaded shaft on the brake actuator arm will not go in the hole in the spring perch. The hole diameter is fine but looks like it's about 1/16" outboard from where it shoud be. Has anyone experienced this?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by dmaxweb

I bought a pair of repro spring perches from one of the vendors about 5 years ago. I'm just now putting them on. When installing them (while rotating king pin) the threaded shaft on the brake actuator arm will not go in the hole in the spring perch. The hole diameter is fine but looks like it's about 1/16" outboard from where it shoud be. Has anyone experienced this?

Yes, look at post #3 above. Those were absolute junk. They did not fit the front radius rod correctly and as Roger said above, the holes were not drilled correctly. I think most vendors sent them back and that is how the guy in the northeast got them.

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Yes, look at post #3 above. Those were absolute junk. They did not fit the front radius rod correctly and as Roger said above, the holes were not drilled correctly. I think most vendors sent them back and that is how the guy in the northeast got them.

Do the current repros fit correctly?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by dmaxweb

Do the current repros fit correctly?

I bought one late last year from Snyder's and it fit fine.

While we are in this area, watch out for the off shore shackles also. I bought the USA made ones from Snyder's, don't look original but they won't break either. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/brokenshackles.htm

[dmaxweb]

Are good originals hard to find?

I have a pair but they are not in good shape. The shackle holes look to be built up by brazing but worn egg shaped. The shock link ball is pretty much square. I assume the balls could be welded up and filed back to round. Can more brazing be added to the holes or should the brazing be removed and built up with weld and then be bored to size? The problem is that restoring these is above my ability.

On the positive side, the holes for the brake actuator bolt fit well. This would seem to indicate the repros I have are not correct.