Radiator Paint

[Patrick brophy]

Just got my radiator back from the shop.I had it cleaned and pressure tested etc, getting it ready to put back in the Baby Bird when the paint job is complete.
I was wondering what type of paint was used on the radiators when the car was assembled.
Is there a certain type of paint that was used that was better as in reference to the heat,or is the gloss black rattle can paint OK to use?

[CSPIDY]

Eastwood sells a radiator paint in a spray can that works pretty well

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

Just got my radiator back from the shop.I had it cleaned and pressure tested etc, getting it ready to put back in the Baby Bird when the paint job is complete.
I was wondering what type of paint was used on the radiators when the car was assembled.
Is there a certain type of paint that was used that was better as in reference to the heat,or is the gloss black rattle can paint OK to use?

What paint does the shop that did the radiator use? Yes, Eastwood makes a radiator paint but with shipping it gets pricey. IMO

[50fordcoupeman]

I have used gloss and flat black rattle can paint with no issues.

[Alaska Jim]

I think that krylon makes a black paint that is designed for radiators. It is kind of thin, and is sort of a satin/flat black. I used to have some out in the shop, I will look tomorrow and double check the name brand of the paint

[51504bat]

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Originally Posted by Alaska Jim

I think that krylon makes a black paint that is designed for radiators. It is kind of thin, and is sort of a satin/flat black. I used to have some out in the shop, I will look tomorrow and double check the name brand of the paint

Krylon makes what they refer to as a high heat radiator/wood stove/barbecue paint but its for household heating radiators not automotive ones. Don't know if that be an issue or not. Or maybe they make one for automotive applications that Mr. Google didn't tell me about. Be nice to know since I have an aluminum one in my '54 Ranch Wagon that needs paint.

[Patrick brophy]

I am aware that there is issues with the 55-56-57 Thunderbirds overheating with the stock radiators. That is why I am not looking to create a problem when I paint the Radiator.
If there is something I should stay away from, I would like to know it now, as I really would not want to have to pull it out later to correct any mistake.

[KULTULZ]

Here You Go - https://itstillruns.com/paint-car-radiator-6472182.html

The shop should have painted it once it was repaired. You may have to ask that it be painted before/when repaired.

This is for copper only.

The actual overheating of the BIRD is usually not caused by the radiator unless it cannot hold pressure.

[KULTULZ]

- https://www.eastwood.com/ew-radiator...in-finish.html

Radiator Black Gloss Paint is just the right viscosity to spray-paint your radiator without damaging it Standard engine paints are too thick for use on a radiator because they can interfere with heat transfer, and block air flow between the cooling fins. But Radiator Black Gloss is specifically formulated for your radiator, heater core and air conditioning condenser. Won't block air flow between cooling fins Won't interfere with heat transfer Acrylic enamel (85% gloss) Withstands 300 degreesF

[rotorwrench]

When I was a lot younger and there were several local radiator shops around, most folks recommended a thin enamel paint. Lacquer was a no-no. Things have changed a lot since then. Most all "enamels" are acrylic based now days instead of alkyd like they used to be. As long as the coat is well thinned and not too much film build then an acrylic enamel will be fine. Too much film build equals too much insulation against heat transfer. Eastwood uses acrylic enamel in a can and calls it radiator paint. Just make sure to get the best quality rattle can you can find or purchase acrylic enamel from TCP Global and thin it well but not so well that it runs all over the place. A thin coat or maybe two if you can see through the first coat.

This link is to the HAMB. One fellow on there made the mistake of "following instructions". I think he should have just coated it well and stopped. Some of the acrylics take a long time to completely solidify. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-paint.787613/

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

... getting it ready to put back in the Baby Bird when the paint job is complete. ...

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

... Too much film build equals too much insulation against heat transfer. ...

I somehow ended up with an extra new aluminum radiator for a Baby Bird.
Don't care for the shiny bare aluminum color so it will eventually get a light coat of black,
but only on the parts outside of the radiator shroud that are easily seen.

[Daves55Sedan]

I used the same high temperature gloss black spray enamel that I used on the engine rocker arm covers to do the radiator. Comes in spray rattle cans. Has held up well for many decades now. Sorry, don't remember what brand it was.

[Alaska Jim]

Well, I searched all over the garage today, looking for the radiator paint. I must have used it all , as I can't find it anywhere. So now I am not sure what brand it was. If you have a Good radiator shop near you ask them what they use, they should know what works best. I will check around the garage again tomorrow and see if I can turn up that can of paint. I sure don't remember using it all

[Bill Playfoot]

We use SEM Trim Black paint for painting all radiator cores whether they be for a Ferrari or Duesenberg at RM Auto Restorations and have never had a overheating problem or colour fade.

We use single stage paint on the radiator tanks

[rotorwrench]

I've used the SEM trim paint and it goes on well. I don't know how long it will look good though. I used it on the helicopter instrument panels and it seemed to rub off in places where pilots like to put there fingers a lot. It does go on thin so make sure all parts are covered before you let it dry. It may be an acrylic urethane but information is hard to find on that product.

[JimNNN]

Two questions:
1- How would you typically prep a copper radiator to take a radiator paint (like the Eastwood.)


2- Would the overflow/expansion tank on an FE engine need a radiator paint like those mentioned? Or would a high temp engine enamel be better? I ask because I don't believe the expansion tank is steel, so I wonder how long term adhesion would be. Thanks.

[KULTULZ]

Did you read my referring URL above?

Step 5

Clean the radiator with mineral spirits and a shop rag until it is free of oil and residue. Apply a light coating of radiator spray paint. Radiator spray paint is specially formulated to block heat from the engine and is black in color. Let the paint dry for a few minutes, then apply three or four solid coats of paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least several hours (or overnight if possible) before reinstalling the radiator in the engine bay.

Same procedure for the expansion tank.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

I am aware that there is issues with the 55-56-57 Thunderbirds overheating with the stock radiators. ...

I've got a '55 Bird with what appears to be an original (date coded) radiator and it hasn't overheated in two summers of 100 degree temperatures. The only non-stock part in the cooling system is an oversized thermostat.

Has your T-Bird been running hot?
As the factory Temp sensor & gauge get older they can become less accurate. A hand-held infrared sensor from the hardware store reading the thermostat housing may help you out. (photo 4)

A common reason for running hot is rust debris buildup in the water jackets of the block. Cleaning compounds to flush the block can be used.

Another common reason, especially on the '55 & '56 with the original distributor, is non-functioning ignition timing advance.
https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

Here are a couple example parts that can help reduce engine heat.
https://www.classictbird.com/Thermos...uctinfo/8575C/

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-P...ctinfo/8501HO/

And this T-Bird specific improved hi-flow water pump spacer, on the right side of photo 5.
https://thunderbird.us/
.

[Patrick brophy]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

I've got a '55 Bird with what appears to be an original (date coded) radiator and it hasn't overheated in two summers of 100 degree temperatures. The only non-stock part in the cooling system is an oversized thermostat.

Has your T-Bird been running hot?
As the factory Temp sensor & gauge get older they can become less accurate. A hand-held infrared sensor from the hardware store reading the thermostat housing may help you out. (photo 4)

A common reason for running hot is rust debris buildup in the water jackets of the block. Cleaning compounds to flush the block can be used.

Another common reason, especially on the '55 & '56 with the original distributor, is non-functioning ignition timing advance.
https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

Here are a couple example parts that can help reduce engine heat.
https://www.classictbird.com/Thermos...uctinfo/8575C/

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-P...ctinfo/8501HO/

And this T-Bird specific improved hi-flow water pump spacer...
https://thunderbird.us/

.

My engine is still sitting in the chassis,and the body is still on the rotisserie in the final stages of pre-paint.
I hope to have the under- carriage painted this week. I have been trying to stay out in front of what I am going to need when the paint is complete, which is why I took the radiator to have it serviced. Now that I have it back in the unpainted form , I had the questions.
When I did the engine I had it boiled out. I am at this point attempting to remove any issues that can be prevented.
That might seem overly cautious, but I do not want to sit alongside the highway and have to answer questions from my supervisor, while awaiting AAA.

[JimNNN]

Thanks for the link and instructions, KULTULZ.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

My engine is still sitting in the chassis,and the body is still on the rotisserie in the final stages of pre-paint.
I hope to have the under- carriage painted this week. I have been trying to stay out in front of what I am going to need when the paint is complete, which is why I took the radiator to have it serviced. Now that I have it back in the unpainted form , I had the questions.
When I did the engine I had it boiled out. I am at this point attempting to remove any issues that can be prevented.
That might seem overly cautious, but I do not want to sit alongside the highway and have to answer questions from my supervisor, while awaiting AAA.

Same story here, the block for my '55 was also thoroughly cleaned out before it was rebuilt and installed. In my opinion it's the most important thing to do.

They didn't overheat when new so there isn't a good reason for them to overheat now if you're already cleaning & repairing all the original parts.
https://www.ctci.org/1955-56-57-thun...d-overheating/

My '55 does seem to get a bit too warm in slow traffic and at stoplights but hasn't overheated.
I've also got a '57 project that will have a large throat thermostat and the better water pump spacer on it when the rebuilt engine is installed. I'll probably get a large vane/hi output water pump too.
.

[zuburg]

Did you have to prep your aluminum radiator in any way before you painted it?

I was just looking at some replacement aluminum radiators and it appeared several of them had the upper hose pipe slanting down at a pretty good angle instead of being straight? Did yours have that? If so, was there any issue with attaching the upper shroud? Did the bottom have something to attach the support bracket for the lower shroud?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by zuburg

Did you have to prep your aluminum radiator in any way before you painted it?

These people can answer your questions. ALUM usually requires an etching primer or it may included in the fizzie bomb -

CLICK HERE - https://www.eastwood.com/ew-radiator...in-finish.html

Give radiators a factory-quality finish without affecting performance by choosing Eastwood Radiator Paint in Satin Black. Normal engine paints are too thick for radiators; using them will interfere with heat transfer and block airflow over the cooling fins. Also, standard paint tends to flake off metal radiator tanks.

Eastwood Radiator Black aerosol spray is how to paint your car radiator quickly and effectively. This aluminum radiator paint is specially formulated to solve these problems and is heat resistant to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The durable enamel formula also resists under-hood chemicals and chips. Meanwhile, the satin finish offers a lower sheen than regular gloss that is more similar to the factory paints used on modern plastic tank radiators.

Visit the Eastwood Garage to learn more about why you should choose Eastwood heat-resistant radiator paint over standard spray paint, and how to paint a car radiator. One can covers six square feet; note that most radiators require two cans (which you can order at a discount). We offer lifetime technical support with DIY experts who can answer all your questions.

[Alaska Jim]

I know this tread is old and the original poster has probably found a paint solution, but I finally came across the can of radiator paint I was looking for. some how it ended up in an outside storage shed, instead of the shop. Anyway, I said that if I found it I would post it. The paint is by Krylon. the paint is called Hight Heat & Radiator. The # of the paint on the sticker with the bar code on the can is 1614 High Heat Black . I hope this will help someone in the future. sorry it took so long to find it. I need to remember to put things in there proper place I guess.

[51504bat]

My guess is that it refers to a household radiator not an automotive one. As such clogging the fins with paint isn't an issue as it is with an automotive radiator.

[Alaska Jim]

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51504bat-- you may be correct, as there is a picture of a wood stove and an old style heat/steam radiator on the can.