Question on disasemblying w/s frame

[crock]

I finely found a 28/29 w/s frame thanks to the info from "wrndin". I have soaked the ends in evap-o-rust. Do i have to apply heat to remove the 4 screws or beat them to death?
This does not look like an easy task or fun, and i do not need to go looking for another frame if i screw up!!!!!!!!!!

[stainless steve]

I would soak them down for a couple days ...another trick is to heat them with a propane torch and while hot spray them with more ; be carefull it may flare up; they dont need to be cherry red just hot enough to help break the rust I wouldnt beat on them at all ,it will distort the frame. patience goes along way here. good luck

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by crock

I finely found a 28/29 w/s frame thanks to the info from "wrndin". I have soaked the ends in evap-o-rust. Do i have to apply heat to remove the 4 screws or beat them to death?
This does not look like an easy task or fun, and i do not need to go looking for another frame if i screw up!!!!!!!!!!

Take your time...be patient...a little heat is OK in the right areas...heat and cool, heat and cool (use COLD water) so you get expansion and contraction of the assembled parts...but not a red hot heat...not enough to melt the assembly.

Depending on just how rusted the assembly is, you should be OK.

Pluck

[Tom Wesenberg]

Soak, wait, heat a time or two, and for sure use a quality screwdriver with a good flat tip.
Screwdrivers that have been used as paint and gasket scrapers are sure to ruin screw slots.

[wrndln]

All the tips to remove the screws above are good. I have found that heat is usually the best way on really stuck fasteners - screws and bolts. I had to use heat on the 6 screws on the last windshield frame I took apart. Sometimes it takes several cycles to break the 80+ year only rust bond. Good luck with the screws.
Rusty Nelson

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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I like 700 RPM's (Ray Horton) line he typed, "WORK SLOWLY FOR A HARMONIOUS OUTCOME"! Great for a large shop poster! Bill W.

[crock]

Tks for the info. I have a lot of patience in the beginning, but it usually wears off quickly. Will let you know how i make out.

[Benson]

Additional ideas:


1. An Attack driver with a blade that fits tight in the slot.

http://www.kokenusa.com/products/model/605

When you strike tool a force is applied that torques the screw/ bolt depending upon if you set tool to tighten or loosen.

You can use this tool to slightly tighten then loosen as mentioned below.

Then use screwdriver in between attack driver uses to attempt movement in each direction.

2. This helps with any rusted screws/bolts: Use penetrating oil.

Tighten first slightly, then try to loosen and repeat.

Usually you get very small movement in each direction at first, then movement increases.

If when turning and a squeaking noise is heard ... stop and try opposite direction.

Note: Power drills/ tools will usually break the screw or bolt. And the noise masks the squeaking sound, which is your warning that the screw is about to break off.

[Mitch//pa]

A good quality Impact driver works well on all stuck model A screws