Filler strip- above gas tank/below windshield

[Roger V]

I am restoring a late '30 Pickup. With the gas tank in the cowl, putting the filler strip in between the windshield posts and above the tank, it bows-up in the center. I tried another filler strip and the same thing. Has any one had this problem before? Usually, problems arise with repro parts. In my case everything is original. If I try to bolt the strip to the cross brace and gas tank, I'm sure I'll kink the filler strip, in other words it's not a slight gap. BTW, it's the same for the '30-31 Tudor and coupe.

Over the years I've restored all three but don't recall ever having this issue.

A side question: apparently there are two different filler strips of this style (not counting the different shaped slantwindow version). One has cage nuts and the other no sign of ever having cage nuts. Were there different applications or just two suppliers?

[james hitchcock]

I have a late 31 indented firewall pick up. My filler strip looks to be right on 44" in length.

[Brentwood Bob]

caged nuts came later.
Try going from the center of the tank out to each side just starting the bolts.
If the tabs are fatiqued at the ends and cracked I fabricated tabs to replace them and soldered the replacements in place.
Bob

[jw hash]

you need to bolt the filler strip to the tank with the welting in place with 4 of the bolts, one on each end and two kind of in the middle. if you look at the dash rail where the tank goes you will notice that there is two over size holes in the middle area. that allows the head of the bolt and lock washer to go through. you need to do this before you put the tank in. the slant widow filler strip is completely different.

[durlingt]

Recently had same issue with my 30 coupe filler strip, not sure but think mine might have heated and changed the curve when I was repairing a spot. I installed my tank then fastened one end of the filler strip and using a torch applied a little heat as I installed the bolts from the fastened side by the time I reached the other side it fit tight. I only heated it in three or four spots, center and about 1/2 way between center and the window post. I also upon heating the filler strip and installing the bolts in the area I cooled the metal with a wet cloth. Turned out great for me and I have the perfect curve. Hope this helps.

[Roger V]

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Originally Posted by james hitchcock

I have a late 31 indented firewall pick up. My filler strip looks to be right on 44" in length.

Both of mine are 44"

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

caged nuts came later.
Try going from the center of the tank out to each side just starting the bolts.
If the tabs are fatiqued at the ends and cracked I fabricated tabs to replace them and soldered the replacements in place.
Bob

My '31 coupe has caged so understand being later. Tabs are good. Could un-bolt tabs and work from center out.

Originally Posted by jw hash

you need to bolt the filler strip to the tank with the welting in place with 4 of the bolts, one on each end and two kind of in the middle. if you look at the dash rail where the tank goes you will notice that there is two over size holes in the middle area. that allows the head of the bolt and lock washer to go through. you need to do this before you put
the tank in. the slant widow filler strip is completely different.

I can't imagine bolting the strip to the tank with the welt and getting all of that installed. I know about the two large holes but you mentioned four bolts. I did mention the slantwindow filler being different in my original post. Maybe it's "nothing ventured, nothing gained".

Originally Posted by durlingt

Recently had same issue with my 30 coupe filler strip, not sure but think mine might have heated and changed the curve when I was repairing a spot. I installed my tank then fastened one end of the filler strip and using a torch applied a little heat as I installed the bolts from the fastened side by the time I reached the other side it fit tight. I only heated it in three or four spots, center and about 1/2 way between center and the window post. I also upon heating the filler strip and installing the bolts in the area I cooled the metal with a wet cloth. Turned out great for me and I have the perfect curve. Hope this helps.

So if your situation was like mine are you suggesting the heating then cooling helped your getting the contour right but also shrunk it to fit between the posts?

[Brentwood Bob]

The replacement tabs were slipped into the filler strip at each end. There is a crimp that I used on the underside. Clean the replacement clip to bare metal and the end of the strip to be repaired. Then solder.
In your case I see you have good tabs, However, others may have this cracked, or missing tab problem, so I elaborate.
Bob

[Roger V]

FWIW, below are a couple of pics. The passenger end is the same as the pictured driver's end, snug to the tank and its tab bolted (machine screw). The other pic shows the gap.

[Brentwood Bob]

So the fastners are not installed in the pictures?
The tabs, in my opinion, would be attached last, not first.
I don't have experience with this install, but that looks like an OEM filler strip and in good condition.
Have you tried any of the suggestions yet?

[Roger V]

I'm in the process of bolting and taking the machine screws out of the tabs. Had to stop as I'm running to an "A" meeting.