A or B Cam recommendation

[Plainsman30]

We are in the process of rebuilding an engine for our Model A. The engine will be inserted, counterweighted, and flywheel lightened some to compensate for the counterweights. The only performance modification is a 5.5 head. The carb, exhaust, valve size, and ignition are all stock as we like the stock look. The car is used for some touring and for short evening drives. I like the low RPM pull of the "A" engine. We don't plan to drive much over 50 or 55 as my wife protest if I go faster, but would like it to do 65 if needed. I have read the B cam has more power on the road, but I suppose it would lose some on the bottom end. I see reground cams can be purchased at Snyder’s for under $100. Would and A or B cam be recommended?

[PC/SR]

I would say go with the B cam. It will breath a little better. I doubt you would notice any change at low speed between the A and B cam.

[afuncar]

I used a stipe ib 330 cam works great low and high speed.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you want to tour at 50 and faster, I'd put in a high speed ring and pinion, or an overdrive.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Mike,

Opinions may vary; but, since you asked, with your set up and your particular specified above intentions, I would suggest looking into going with a new Stipe IB330 cam.

Go to Mr. Vince Falter's Ford Garage and read his concise description and specifications for the new Bill Stipe IB330 made with hard billet steel.

Mr. Marco also has lots of scientific and engineering information on Model A and B cams that he shared in describing advantages of "new" vs. "regrind" cams, especially involving your mentioned desired torque and power.

Drivers testing cams by holding a wet finger out of the window during acceleration to observe increased wind pressure is one way to test different cams; however, try Mr. Ron Kelley at (972) 771-1911, (MARC Advertiser), who has tested Model A and B cams on calibrated dynamometers; or try calling someone else familiar with similar dynamometer Model A reports.

I have an IB330 Stipe cam with standard SS valves, a police head, rebuilt B distributor and rebuilt B carburetor on a 1930 Town Sedan with a new 3:27 rear end where everything appears in tune with todays traffic, pick up, and highways even in hill country.

I carry a spare rebuilt A Zenith carburetor and a rebuilt A distributor that can be changed out in a few minutes.

Just hope this helps you to decide.

[CarlG]

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Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

... I would suggest looking into going with a new Stipe IB330 cam...

I will second that motion

[James Rogers]

The Stipe IB330 cam is the best on the market. It is pretty pricy but will perform better than any reground cam. The Snyder reground cam is a good cam for the money and performs nicely but is an original cam reground to Model B specs making it what they call a "touring" cam. The difference is 425$ (Stipe) to 95$ (Snyder) both plus shipping.
I have used both and the biggest difference is in most owners wallet.

[Synchro909]

X2 what Tom says. Higher diff ratio or O/D

[Pete]

Nothing wrong with a regrind if you can find a core with good journals.

[Plainsman30]

Thanks all for the help. We found a B cam locally but was too rusted to use. Decided to go with a Snyder's regrind touring cam.

[M2M]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Drivers testing cams by holding a wet finger out of the window during acceleration to observe increased wind pressure is one way to test different cams...

Well said! I'd say 50% of opinions expressed here are based on such "testing".