Starts with hand crank only

[Gold Digger]

Had this problem 8 years ago and replaced the Distibutor and all was well. This time its another model A and I can't pull the distibutor out with out probably breaking it off in the head. I've checked all of the wiring and the ground, replaced with new coil, points and condenser. Want start with the starter but will start with quarter turn by hand. The only thing I haven't done is change the pig tail wire on the lower plate. Got one ordered but hasn't came in yet. Am I missing something or am I on the right track? Any help would be appreciated.

[alexiskai]

Before folks jump in, review the previous thread on this issue from August:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...6986&showall=1

[Ramman]

Logic tells me you have a weak or dead cell in your battery. It will crank the engine over but not enough power left for ignition. Turn the key on and there's enough power for ignition if you crank it by hand.

[redmodelt]

New battery or need the starter serviced because it is pulling too many amps so not enough to fire the coil.
If it is a different car, how could this issue be related to the other car?

[alexiskai]

In the previous thread, you stated it was an Optima battery that tested good at the store. If that's true, it's unlikely that the starter would really be challenging the Optima – they're rated for 1000 cranking amps and a normal starter pulls ~150.

[redmodelt]

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Are you working on the same car as your last post or is this a different car, it reads like it is a different car.

[Big hammer]

Electrical connection’s on the power side from the battery to the distributor need to be tight and bright !

[Gold Digger]

It is a different car that the problem occurred a few years ago.

[Brokenvette]

Be sure and check all the grounds. Corrosion will do it.

[redmodelt]

Sorry but you are mixing together and dealing with two separate issues, removing the distributor and not starting when using the starter.
Sure, maybe the points and condenser needed replacing anyway but not firing when using the starter has nothing to do with the distributor/coil esp if it fires when hand cranking. Being able to crank start does not sound like there would be an issue with the pigtail.
That is a battery/starter issue.
How old is the battery or is it the same Optima you were having issues with before?

[Gold Digger]

Just put in a new lead acid battery and still the same trouble. Only thing left is rebuilding the starter but it whorls the engine like it was 12 volts. Still waiting on new pig tail, points and condenser to arrive.

[Ramman]

One thought would be if "it whorls the engine like it was 12 volts."It could well be something in the starter is drawing excessive current. You obviously know what a Model A should sound like cranking. Did yours always sound like that? Got any local friend/club members that might have a spare starter to loan you for a test?

[nkaminar]

A voltmeter is your friend. You can use it to measure the voltage at the coil when cranking with the starter and then at the battery under the same conditions to see if there is excessive resistance somewhere. You can also measure the voltage drop at each connection and many other things. It is a good device for finding what is at fault.

[AL in NY]

If you have the starter mounted fuse unstalled, you may want to check to see if the fuse is held tightly in the fuse holder. I had a similar problem 6 years ago when my car wouldn't start using the starter motor, but would start by pushing it. CHECK THE FUSE HOLDER!!!!!!

[eagle]

Check the voltage on the power side of the coil when running the starter, then turn over slowly with the hand crank and check with a voltmeter on BOTH sides of the coil. Power side of the coil should stay VERY close to battery, point side should drop very close to ground when points close. Use the battery + as ground reference. Poor engine grounding can cause strange issues too.