Head Bolt continually weeping

[guy1unico]

Painted the heads, installed stainless bolts, torqued bolts to 60 and a few will not stop weeping. Any suggestions of how I may stop these annoying leaks?

[19Fordy]

Doesn't look like you have installed ss bolts as your photo shows studs.

You will probably have to remove the stud and reseal it.

I would be hesitant to use stainless bolts as they may not be able to withstand the torque required.

Here's a good thread.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ad+bolt+torque

[motordr]

Put some thread sealer, I like Loctite PST, on the fine threads, re-install the head nuts and retorque.

[Lawson Cox]

It will stop eventually but heed the advice given above.

[Jack E/NJ]

Don't seem like much of a leak. If it were mine, I'd leave it alone. I agree with Lawson. It might eventually stop all by itself. Jack E/NJ

[Russ/40]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I had that problem on a rebuild that sat on my run stand. Had coolant in the system that would weep between the stud and the nut. Continued weeping for many months. Got tired of it and blasted it with compressed air and immediately put super glue on it and let it wick into the threads. Never leaked again.

[mercman from oz]

Water continually weeping from one stud on 1935 Ford V8 engine.

[alanwoodieman]

leak is really coming from the threads on the stud, one a new stud installation I use permatex #2 non hardening on the studs. only way to seal the studs is from the water jacket side. on a problem like this I use the old style pellet stop leak from barrs, put it in run the engine until hot and then stop the engine and drain out all the coolant and barrs leak. save it for now, leave over night then fill up with water and run engine. I have had to run the solution thru a couple of times to make them stop. then drain and refill with your antifreeze

[Ken hash]

I have used alumaseal with success. I would try some kind of stop leak before retorking the heads.

[guy1unico]

When applying the silicone on the head bolt do I need to drain all antifreeze...you cant just silicone and put back into the greasy antifreeze filled whole or can you?

[Jack E/NJ]

guy1unico>>>When applying the silicone on the head bolt do I need to drain all antifreeze.>>>


Sorry, you can't apply anything to the head bolts in your situation. Jack E/NJ

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by guy1unico

When applying the silicone on the head bolt do I need to drain all antifreeze...you cant just silicone and put back into the greasy antifreeze filled whole or can you?

Maybe it is just terminology, but you keep saying bolts but the photo you posted shows studs with nuts. The only options you have without pulling the studs is a sealer in the coolant. Increasing the torque on the nuts does nothing at all as far as sealing the leaks goes. It is leaking through the threads on the studs in the block. You can pull the studs and seal them better or use a sealant.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Maybe it is just terminology, but you keep saying bolts but the photo you posted shows studs with nuts. The only options you have without pulling the studs is a sealer in the coolant. Increasing the torque on the nuts does nothing at all as far as sealing the leaks goes. It is leaking through the threads on the studs in the block. You can pull the studs and seal them better or use a sealant.

MUCH easier said than done, in most cases.

[Holeshot]

It most likely will stop weeping on its own, but you can put a little bars leak powder in the radiator if it bothers you.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by tubman

MUCH easier said than done, in most cases.

Agree, that's why I would use a sealant.

[alanwoodieman]

yeah, rust will eventually seal the threads

[Baggs]

Seems it may be a fresh engine, shouldn’t be tough to remove the studs. Are those studs SS? The nuts look like they are, but the studs have a dull iron look to them?

[rockfla]

First there are many on here more "versed" than me BUT the first "Red Flag" I read is the use of Stainless Steel Nuts........At 60ft/Lbs you are about 24Ft/lbs more than the "generally" accepted torque value for Stainless Steel. I have some SS cap nuts and were advised NOT to use those as a quoted "maximum" torque recommendation was 40ft/Lbs.....I myself would not use ANY Stainless Steel fastener for something critical like head studs and nuts!!!!! JMO


Based on what has been posted, did you heat cycle the heads and arrive at 60???? IF you haven't heat cycled and re checked your torque then you could have one that stretched and now is not at 60Ft/Lbs


can of worms now open

[marko39]

Had two studs leaking on my 39 engine, stopped all by itself.

[19Fordy]

rockfla is 100% correct about not using stainless nuts and bolts as they shear too easily using the torque required on head bolts. The threads will stretch, especially after repeated use.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

rockfla is 100% correct about not using stainless nuts and bolts as they shear too easily using the torque required on head bolts. The threads will stretch, especially after repeated use.

Industrial fasteners being my business......I have had long conversations with an associate who helped write both SAE and ASTM fastener specs and has forgotten 3X's as much I have known about Stainless Steel. He said "nuts" are not as critical as studs and bolts....They get a good amount of "work hardening" when they are made.......He has done many pulls on SS nuts to as much as 120,000psi .........BUT That is not normal and NOT the norm for Stainless fastener industry in general!!!!! Again, I would not trust any SS fastener for something as important as a head stud, bolt or nut!!!!! Since he has already pulled 60 and NOT stripped a bolt (or in this case a nut) certainly lends itself to "work hardened".........still I would not trust it!!!!




Also let me preface my comment to "commercially available" Stainless Steels which in my case would encompass 303, 304, 305, 307 OR more commonly the all previous mentioned into 18-8, 316, 316L B8 and B8M. There are a few who sell a "strain hardened" Stainless and IF that is what was used then my platitude is null & void.


Also, just at a quick glance those appear to be a "finished" pattern nut and NOT a "heavy pattern" nut as well, "IF" so.....Another NO NO. They were and NEED to be of the Heavy Pattern!!!!

[flatjack9]

Run clear water in the engine for a little while and they will quit leaking.

[Jack E/NJ]

Wonder if muddy water would work quicker? Jack E/NJ

[Jack E/NJ]

Another possible side effect of torqueing that much might be thread galling and filling stud threads with SS. Might be hard to back them off now. Jack E/NJ

[Tinker]

It'll stop at some point. If you want pull the offending stud and put some anti seize on the stud and reinstall. That'll work also.

[Mart]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Don't be tempted to go tighter. 60 lbs ft is already top whack for this application.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Tinker

It'll stop at some point. If you want pull the offending stud and put some anti seize on the stud and reinstall. That'll work also.

Very difficult to pull the studs without removing the head first. As I (and others) have stated, better to just wait it out or add a sealant to the cooling system.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Very difficult to pull the studs without removing the head first. As I (and others) have stated, better to just wait it out or add a sealant to the cooling system.

I didn't say you wouldn't have to remove the head to get to the stud.

[Tinker]

You could probably also just put some rtv sealant around the stud and put the nut back on. As I agreed above in my original post, I'd just leave it alone and it'll most likely seal it's self over time.

[Bored&Stroked]

The studs appear to be normal, the nuts appear to be stainless - so you'll need to replace them. You might look to McMaster-Carr - they have high quality Grade 8 nuts that are zinc-aluminum coated so they don't rust and will look correct on your engine. They cost about $8 a box of 25.

https://www.mcmaster.com/93827A241/

On the leaking studs: If you're willing to pull the heads, then you can use a stud sealer on the coarse threads. I use a teflon type product from ARP. I don't like to get water between the studs and the heads - causes rust, so I prefer to fix the problem at the source. .

Other than that method, you can try something like Moroso Ceramic Seal - really good product. Make sure you follow the instructions carefully - especially related to draining and flushing the system and filling with WATER before you put this stuff in.

https://www.moroso.com/ceramic-engine-seal35500/

[Automotive Stud]

In my experience, stuff that leaks doesn't generally stop leaking on it's own. I've had the same issue, I've taken the offending nut off, slopped on some permatex teflon thread sealant on the stud, then re-torque that nut and it worked great.

[JMFL36]

You really need to seal the threads on the block end of the studs. Otherwise the studs and nuts will corrode over time and make those pretty painted heads look bad.

It also looks like some of the studs are not fully seated. The nuts should be near flush to the top of the studs, like in this photo of my '34 motor.

nuts.jpg

[Bored&Stroked]

Upon closer viewing of the last picture, the nuts looks like Cadmium plated - so they may be just fine. Take a magnet to them if you're not sure - most stainless is non-magnetic.

[Jack E/NJ]

I don't think it's the same engine or nuts. Just an example of how the nuts should be nearly flush with the top of the studs. The nuts in the last picture look more like grade 5 galvanized to me. Jack E/NJ

[JMFL36]

What Jack E/NJ said :-)

The last photo is of my '34 engine, not the original poster.

[AnthonyG]

Not sure what thread seal you used but Permatex non hardening works well but that horse left the barn so Aluminum powder Alumaseal or copper powder sealer both work well in this situation. The leak doesn’t look too bad & either will do the trick by filling the area leaking, in your case probably not enough sealer on that one studs threads.

[Mart]

Just an observation but if I wanted to remove just one stud, providing it had been fitted relatively recently, I would use a variation on the double nut method.
Use a long connector type nut, and screw a bolt down the end to lock them together. Then, hopefully the stud may come out unharmed.

If you have a spare stud you could also weld the nut on the original and get it out like that.

Then apply sealer of your choice and reassemble up. It might be worth leaving it a little while before putting the coolant back in.

Mart.

[flathead 39]

Had some weeping between head & block. Changed 16# radiator cap to a 6# and 6 oz Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak. Leak stopped.

[tubman]

I think he fixed it. He hasn't been back to this thread since April 25. He was here yesterday when he was looking for some parts.

I always appreciate it when someone comes back ands let's us know how everything turned out.