Isky 404A cam - Harley Davidson grind?

[rotorwrench]

The flatheads and sportsters were the only Harleys to use separate cams till the twin cam came out so that must be the pattern they used on that. Nearly all HDs use roller tappets. That type cam would create a lot of side pressure on the tappet no matter what type it is. A person likely would end up sleeving the tappet bores after running that cam for a while.

[Jason in TX]

You can still get the clips from Isky (I think). Call them: (310) 217-9232
http://www.iskycams.com/contact-us.html

There is a special tool to install them that I don't think you can get from isky anymore, but if your block is already drilled for the keepers, you don't need the special tool. You just hold the "staples" in there and bend the ends over.

Isky 404A was considered a full race cam. Usually used in dragsters. Some people say not streetable. Others have told me I'll be fine if I don't have too much spring pressure pushing on the lifters.

Originally Posted by shansen43

My boss has a flathead they just torn down and it has a set of lifters just like in this picture. He wants to know where a person could get a set of the pins/retainers for the lifters as well as other valve train parts.

Also on the cam it has Iskandarian Rack then 404 A. On the shaft there is a CWC but nothing else - where could I get information about the cam etc.

Thank you

[shansen43]

Thanks Jason.

I did call ISKY yesterday and was told to talk to Ron. This was 1960's stuff and the tech didn't know if they had any of that stuff anymore. He said I needed to talk to Ron Inskandarian so that is the next step.

Originally Posted by Jason in TX

You can still get the clips from Isky (I think). Call them: (310) 217-9232
http://www.iskycams.com/contact-us.html

There is a special tool to install them that I don't think you can get from isky anymore, but if your block is already drilled for the keepers, you don't need the special tool. You just hold the "staples" in there and bend the ends over.

Isky 404A was considered a full race cam. Usually used in dragsters. Some people say not streetable. Others have told me I'll be fine if I don't have too much spring pressure pushing on the lifters.

[Jason in TX]

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Jason in TX

So Isky had this or you found the jig?

[Jason in TX]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I found the jig

[KiWinUS]

I have 2 of these cams an 8BA with lifters brand new , A real nice 59AB cam with a set of well used lifters from another404, also have a 404JR thats real nice for a v8/60 & well used 60 lifters from a different cam all in my cam "collection".
I to need the pins & were just going to make some as I have 2 new ones to measure what size wire. I also have the tools brand new that a friend made me copying them from a friends, they are as nice as originals or even better.
I would love a copy of those original instructions!
Have Flatty Fun!!
Cheers
Tony

[Ol' Ron]

T one time the lifter bores were broached with a slot, and the lifters had a pin that road in the slot to prevent rotation. I had one of the blocks, but it used the present staples. Interesting stories about the value of this cam. I ran one at Danbury, however, it was damaged when one of the lifters failed. This was an owner supplied engine and I replaced the cam with the 400jr. Over the years several engine builders tried this cam, but the performance, didn't justify the cost.

[Jason in TX]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

the performance, didn't justify the cost.

I would tend to agree Ron. I don't know that I would build this engine myself due to cost.

I acquired this engine already built this way from a man who recreated his engine that won him a 1958 World Series of Drag Racing record of 138 mph 10:28 for flathead roadsters.

He built the engine using some of the same parts from that original engine, but passed away before firing the engine. I hope to run the engine in my car and continue to tell his story.

[bruce lee]

Amazing. Good job on keeping his legacy going.

[Ol' Ron]

I agree with you here, I have only one suggestion, don't use the compound springs.

[Jason in TX]

I've heard a few people say ditch the compound springs. I know that Pete said to go with about 80 lbs on the seat.

I thought I read that these compound springs can be over 100 lbs.

However, the paperwork that came with the springs says they should be around 70 lbs on the seat.

[Jason in TX]

I completely agree that I want the least amount of spring pressure possible on these lifters and cam because I'll just be driving this engine, not racing it.

I also do have the Italmeccanica blower for this engine so I also don't want to float my valves.

I'll have to check the springs for sure.

[8CM]

Hi if you are still grinding i have a 8cm cam what can you do with that?? 1007b or potvin 3/8 its going in a 49 f100 .060 merc w. 350 holley 2 bbl... suggestions?? ive noticed the 8cm cam does pull prety good.... Rick

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by 8CM

Hi if you are still grinding i have a 8cm cam what can you do with that?? 1007b or potvin 3/8 its going in a 49 f100 .060 merc w. 350 holley 2 bbl... suggestions?? ive noticed the 8cm cam does pull prety good.... Rick

Not sure who this post is too . . . maybe Pete1? If so, contact Pete - you'll see him posting on this thread up above. I would recommend the 1007B - the 3/8 isn't needed for a smaller displacement engine like yours. You'll like the 1007B - great grind.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I agree with you here, I have only one suggestion, don't use the compound springs.

The double springs actually don't gain you anything - and they're a pain in the butt to install. Buy the single Isky 185G springs and install them with about 75 - 80 lbs on the seat. If you're not going to rev it high (like race it) and keep the RPM below 5000, you can probably get away with 70 lbs. That blower won't make a lot of boost anyway - probably 6 - 8 lbs at best.

[Bored&Stroked]

Also, the blower should be gone through, may need new bearings, probably needs seals for sure, etc.. You should contact Ron SanGiovanni (Ronnie Roadster) - he is on this site, he might be able to do it for you (if he has time - as he's really busy building a Bonneville car at the moment).

[Ol' Ron]

B&S Has the right anser here. For street, keep the revs below 5k and your golden. Those Scot blowers might need ritior seals, and that gets expensive.

[Jason in TX]

When the group says the double springs are a pain in the butt to install, I think "mine are already installed. It's going to be a pain in the butt to uninstall them. haha

I will most likely fire it just like it is on the test stand with the HC magneto and Evans 4x2 to make the dream of what he was building but never got to see happen.

Then I can pull the heads and do the 185G spring swap and maybe put some rarer heads on it before it goes in the 34 Three window.

I've already purchased all the bearings, seals, new exact reproduction rear grease caps and even metric gears for inside if needed. Had to source most of it from eirope as this is metric. Different than the new H&H stuff. I already have all the parts. I'll be sure to go through it first.

[bruce lee]

On a side note: do those blowers have a oil feed from motor? Or do they have a grease jerk? How do they stay lubed up? Sorry just want to learn something new today. As gene says everyday is a school day.