New engine does GREAT, but

[Christoph]

Short update

Put car on stands and listened from under the car.
Sadly noise is somewhat "off" once turning wheels by hand (to slow).

No i wont run wheels by engine while being under the car

For sure no wheel-bearing prob.

Noise seems to be out of gearborx and/or U-joint area
(slightly to be heard from both housings via Stethoscope/Screwdriver)

Cant really feel the noise
Even not once driving without floor-wood out and holding
hand to gearbox and U-joint (while driving).

Re-opened gearbox (was long time-open while changing engines)
Tried some fishing in thick oil (NO FUN !!!)
Didnt find things/unnormal things
Didnt find abnormal movement in the gearbox-spindles/axles

Will have to investigate regarding U-joint and upper bearing
of driveshaft...

If the special thick washer and U-joint may have become loose
(as mentioned by Tom) do i have to lower the rear axle to find out about???.

Well i guess i should lower rear end anyway as this is only way to
inspect the driveshaft bearing too ...

Will update
Christoph

[QGolden]

Seems like you have narrowed it down to the U-Joint/tailshaft area....

Can you lift it with the jacks, crib it up on some wood timbers under the Axles, and run it through the gears to listen, NOT under it, but in it?

[Christoph]

Thank you for your help

Tried to run it while sitting in the car and still was
in fear it might jump and accelerate....

Found out, that it took me just one hour (today after work)
to loosen all bolts brakes, rear spring and stuff.
Car is still sitting o own wheels, waiting for a Snyders
package to arrive tomorrow...

Will tell you about outcome.
Thank you
Christoph

[Benson]

Maybe "Float A Motor" bolts on Rubber dough nuts are too tight or too loose or part of the FAM is contacting something?

Car looks like a '28 ... does it have the small piece attached to the rear of the U joint "clam shell" that is maybe contacting the cross member if the rear of the engine too low.

Way to check engine angle is to remove carb and put an carburetor choke angle gauge with a "Bubble level" on the carb flange. Should be about 3.5 degrees from horizontal.

If angle is way off sometimes the U Joint might be noisy.

I carried 600 pounds of tools in the trunk of the My '79 Chevy. The rear bushing in the tail shaft of THM 350 wore out quickly Oblong shaped top to bottom.

Tranny guy said it was caused by all the stuff in the trunk causing the drive line angle to be wrong.

There is a magnet to hold gauge to carb flange.

[Christoph]

Thank you for your ideas Benson

All rubber-holding-bolts are tightened somewhat
No bad contacts to find.

Car is 1929
Good point regarding clam-shell but no - used to grind that "away".

Angle is about 3 degrees...

Regarding "junk in the trunk"...
Ja i got a trunk and ja i use that just for parts and tools
(including trunk its about 70pounds).
BUT
If the rear of the car goes down, the drivetrain will be more straight !!
Which means that load on the U-joint and the driveshaft-bearing should be low.

[Christoph]

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Got to update and got to thank you again.

Your ideas help me as I feel that im not alone and somebody cares
No one to ask around here, so I got to rely on friends in the net!

Good thing is - Vendors package arrived yesterday

70 items delivered

1 item missing

1 item is ……

…the new U-joint i ordered.

It was pretty clear in advance, that i couldnt change parts , but
i took out rear end anyway.

Checked driveshaft bearing .
No bigger bearing clearance
(just as much as i imagined to be there)
…nice and ok
BUT
No sufficient amount of grease around.

Checked U-joint
No bearing clearance at all.
9/16 bolt perfect and tight
all good
More Grease around but might not have been sufficient.

I remember that we put in a high adhesive grease onto parts when we
installed things and I used my grease gun later on for “a while”.
(Allways the point where i put most grease while on start-of-season-grease-session)

I know that it has to be a huge amount of grease till its sufficient for the
driveshaft bearing and I now put in grease as well as this modern
flow-away-type-of-grease (you call that corn-grease?)

Well - i packed enough grease last year - why did things go wrong this year?

Ironically i changed the grease-fitting of the U-Joint to a new one (with a ball inside)
when we had the gearbox out (to change engine).

Resistance of this ball type might have been to high
for my old rotten grease gun

I used the grease-gun after repairs and i remember that i felt the internal
compression, but i dont have a glue, where the grease went to.

For sure i will get me a new grease gun for my next birthday.

Just got the axle back into the car yesterday late in the night
(which made me able to push the car into the garage again)
Wasnt able to tighten nuts and bolts anymore.

Will do that on weekend, drive arround and tell you if it just
was the lack of grease which caused my probs.

Thank you again
Christoph

I learned that im to old to go to work all day and do
car-repairs in evening-hours (once im tired allready)
Should ask for some early-retirement soon

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Christoff, Too bad you're FAR away, Gregg won a new grease gun at club raffle & gave it to me, I don't have the talent to use 2 grease guns at the same time. Dog doesn't do lube duty!! Gregg's a good kid, (50 year kid?) he even gave me a feeler gauge he won, it's this l---------l thick, must have 77 blades, LIFE IS GOOD!!! bILL w.

[Christoph]

Thank you
I would have been proud to hold it

No big difference from your dog to me
- Buster T refuses to do lube duty at all
- i dont do them right....

[kwisor]

hello
a way to tell if getting enough greese in u joint housing is to take a bolt out of the odem gear housing on the drive shaft. when you see greese comming from there it should be full. when i put my eng back in my frame it seamed i was putting a lot but did not know where it was going. came on this site and that what was suggested i went pulled a bolt and greese statred comming out the bolt hole
kevin
1930 model a
1923 model t roadster p/u