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11-25-2020, 02:58 PM | #1 |
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Repair of Soft Wood
My husband and I have a 1929 Briggs Leatherback Fordor. We are getting a new top installed soon. The car is in good shape but the left back corner has a few spots of soft wood. I have seen a post that mentioned something you could put on it to firm it up. Can someone tell me if they have done this and if so is it going to work to hold the staples for the new top? Also there is a corner spot that is missing a piece of the wood about the size of a 1” triangle. Wondering if I could use wood filler on that? Thanks for your expertise. You’ll are the best.
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11-25-2020, 03:53 PM | #2 | |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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11-25-2020, 05:38 PM | #3 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
I 'repaired' the wood in my Townsedan where the drip rails attach with Git Rot. Then I used a marine epoxy to fill in the larger holes and give the nails something to bite. I also know that this is a temp fix because these cars twist a lot and vibrate.
Brent is right in that fact that if the interior portion is out of the car in that spot it is best to just replace the wood. If the soft part of the wood is on the top then the epoxies today should work at keeping things down. Sealed-that is another question. My two cents worth. Mike
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11-25-2020, 09:17 PM | #4 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
Well I have to agree with Brent and Mike. Something that you may want to consider is cyanoacrylate glue ("super glue") Many woodworkers have had great results. As long as you are at this point you might just as well replace the wood. At least try the cyanoacrylate is a section or two and see if it works.
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11-25-2020, 09:35 PM | #5 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
I have a fair bit of experience with epoxy and wood in a marine environment. Keep in mind that if your oak or ash has gone soft what you have is not "soft wood" what you have is rot. It no longer has structural strength. I agree that epoxy tends to be brittle, and likely won't hold nails well.
If there are gaps or voids, consider an additive that adds strength. The WEST system has a whole series of additives that either increase finishing sandability, add strength, add viscosity, etc. You can use it in a consistency from maple syrup to mayonnaise to putty. It depends what you add. DO NOT mix in large quantities, and be careful above 80 degrees ambient, it cures with heat, and it creates its own heat. You can get a runaway in a big potful, and that's exciting, not in a good way. If you use an epoxy, consider small self tapping screws with a pre-drilled hole, it will hold far better. You could also use the epoxy as a filler/glue, and scarf in more real wood in the more damaged areas. That gets you real wood where the rot is without replacing the entire piece. Not likely in this application, but be aware that epoxy can degrade in UV, this is very true for WEST epoxy. It needs to be shielded from sunlight or at least painted. Hard to say without photos, but there are options. *Edit: Keep in mind when you repair rot, it almost always goes further than you thought. Last edited by Mister Moose; 11-25-2020 at 09:44 PM. |
11-25-2020, 09:43 PM | #6 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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11-26-2020, 05:09 AM | #7 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
completely agree with Brent. there are no two ways around it. you might be able
scalp out some of the old wood and "layer" some new wood in, but in the end, prob as much work as just replacing. I have a 41 woody in which I am going to "piece" in wood, but that is because that is the affect I am going for, not wanting a show car, but a patchwork quilt. |
11-26-2020, 08:02 AM | #8 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
If you decide to “fix”, rather than replace the wood, I would use epoxy to make the wood as solid as possible. Next I would wrap a layer or two of fiberglass matt around the weak area and extend it a ways over the solid area. Use a brush and soak the mat with fiberglass resin. This may get you by and should make a fairly solid repair.
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11-26-2020, 11:15 AM | #9 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
I have “scabbed” wood before. That is mainly where an outer edge has gotten dry or wet soft particularly on sills. That entails being able to get behind metal, cut out the bad and glue/screw/biscuit viable replacement wood. I have saved floor sills that way but still a bunch of work
Making bad wood viable again ain’t gonna work System 3 makes a product; I have it but never tried it. Bought it for home repair not auto |
11-26-2020, 04:58 PM | #10 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
The product is still around, -just not the re-packaged/re-branded name. The epoxy was a methylmethaccrylate that is used in the repair of horse hooves.
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11-27-2020, 07:09 AM | #11 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
I used the Liquid Wood & Wood Epox products on the B Pillar wood on my 30 coupe. Not structural wood but it was riddled with tack and staple holes making it near impossible to attach new windlace and interior panels. Worked very well.
https://www.abatron.com/product-cate...n-maintenance/ |
11-27-2020, 09:41 AM | #12 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
I remember reading all the wood spar repair details that were published by Parson's for their wood main rotor blades back in the day. While removing bad sections and gluing in good replacement wood patches was successful, it was also a lot of work too. There was a good reason to repair the expensive blades. When considering replacement of smaller wood pieces that are basically support for the roof and body structural rigidity, a person has to weigh the benefits of such work against the benefits of replacement of the member depending on which is more practical. A person can just replace the damaged members. With wood, there is a lot of flexibility in repair and replacement methods since a well fit and glued joint is every bit as strong as one with no repairs or splices if the job is done correctly.
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11-27-2020, 10:36 AM | #13 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
Agree and disagree with Brent. Agree that a filler is not the way to go. Disagree that its ok to use such a product on a house. Then again I have made a decent living out of repairing rot on buildings, so keep on using the stuff! LOL.
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11-27-2020, 10:53 AM | #14 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
WELL ONE CAN DEBATE DOES AND DONTS, BUT PREP IS KEY AND IF YOU DONT HAVE DECENT WOOD TO ADHERE TO- YES IT WONT LAST.
THAT SAID- all depends on the project you are working with. sorry bout the caps....... |
11-27-2020, 11:16 AM | #15 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
its a shame got the michigan 90 year old hard wood on the coupe
Last edited by Jack Shaft; 11-27-2020 at 07:54 PM. |
11-27-2020, 12:07 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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FWIW, the best way I have found to deal with old tack and staple holes is to buy a box of pointed toothpicks and dip the ends into wood glue, -then insert the pointed end into the holes in the wood and allow to dry (...think porcupine! ). Once dried, use a sharp wood chisel to shear the toothpick off at the base of the pillar wood. What I have found is most wood putties and/or fillers are intended to cover up the hole to make it aesthetically pleasing. If the wood has become hard (i.e.: lost its' elasticity), then when a new staple or tack is inserted into the wood, the wood fibers do not compress around the staple/tack enough to grip it firmly. Most epoxies I am familiar with do not allow for elasticity either. I would recommend against using any type of epoxy on the wood as a repair. |
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11-27-2020, 12:13 PM | #17 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
Find a new girlfriend,the best cure for soft wood there is...
only if she's attractive. |
11-27-2020, 12:49 PM | #18 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
original wood is so hard you can shape it with a grinder..
Last edited by Jack Shaft; 11-27-2020 at 07:55 PM. |
11-27-2020, 01:05 PM | #19 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
Thanks for all the great info, there are a couple of pieces we are going to replace. I like the toothpick idea. Did that for screw holes on door hinges that had been stripped out. Most of the wood is fine. Just a back corner that must hav head a leak.
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11-27-2020, 06:31 PM | #20 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
I was interested in Tacoma Bob's comment about using cyanoacrylate glue ("super glue"). I built dozens of model airplanes out of balsa wood. To strengthen the bond I would use a water thin cyanoacrylate adhesive that is available from hobby supply places. It soaks into the balsa wood and makes it hard and dense.
I have not tired this on rotten wood so I have no idea if it would work in that application.
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11-28-2020, 10:48 AM | #21 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
Up until the modern era, casein glues were common for wood. Polyvinyl acetate or PVA glues (Elmer's for one) took over the basic joining of wood and is still common but there is a caveat to use of PVA. It and casein adhesives don't take to moisture all that well over time. The FAA still lists resorcinol adhesive as the only product to be safely used in aircraft structure. The FAA and its predicessor, the CAA made these decisions due to the resorcinol-formandehyde adhesive being able to take moisture well beyond polyvinyl or milk protein based glues.
The caveat of epoxy is also found in FAA literature. They leave the use of epoxy based glues open in the advisory circular AC43.13-1B chapter 1 due to the fact that technology changes and some epoxy resins are capable of being used for aircraft structure but they have to be chosen for the capability to take both moisture and heat. If you look at all the stuff available from Jamestown Distributors and other boat supply companies, you will see all sorts of products for restoration of old wood spars, bulkheads, and transoms. Some may be worth looking into and some may be crap. It's best to ask boat repair shops that deal with this stuff to find out what may be good and what may not. Cyanoacrylate adhesive is not yet listed in FAA publications. I do know that it has heat limitations but the long term strength capability isn't documented yet. Most ester based adhesives like Loktite need the access to oxygen to be limited for them to set up. Heat is used to get them to release their bond. Expansion and contraction rates may also be a problem with cyanoacrylates. If a person will be keeping the car in a dry environment, the PVA glues would likely work OK for the most part. Just don't leave the car out in the rain a lot. Very hot and humid regions are hell on old wood structures. Last edited by rotorwrench; 11-28-2020 at 11:09 AM. |
11-28-2020, 12:50 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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I have added a few pictures of a couple cars like yours that we have fabricated new wood for to use an an example, -and I want to point out some things for you to take note of. I am going to assume you & your husband have just removed both exterior sheetmetal panels that are the foundation for the top material. If you did not remove those, please refer to my pictures below so you can see how those should be placed onto the roof rail, back rail, and strainers. These are a huge strengthening panel. Next, notice how your Belt Rail has become detached from the quarter panel sheetmetal. This is likely due to flexing of the body (-a sign of weak wood). If you look at the pictures I have posted, you will see how the quarter panel and rear panel sheetmetal is tacked to the corner and back belt rail assemblies. Also notice how the finger joint on your rear corner rail is compromised. I am also going to guess that the Quarter Hinge Pillar wood is compromised also if you had to use toothpicks to repair screw holes. Generally in those areas if there is a problem with the threads in the wood, we drill a hole large enough to accept a 1.00" hardwood dowel and glue the dowel into the pillar wood. In your situation, I doubt that would be a viable repair. I wish you luck with your project however I feel like you are in a very unfortunate situation where most of the wood appears to need replacing. . . |
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11-28-2020, 01:33 PM | #23 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
any sort of epoxy will only work as a temp band aid on that wood.
fix it right so it lasts another 75 years. |
11-28-2020, 02:00 PM | #24 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
There is much that you can't tell from those photos, but even still I see numerous deteriorated areas, not just one. I see a finger joint separated with large gaps. And I again revert to the wood rot rule that what you can't see is more extensive than what you can see.
The boatbuilders test is to take a paring knife and poke around with vigor. Anyplace the blade sinks is trash. That exercise may reveal the extent of damaged wood to you. Scarfing, epoxy (with or without polyester or carbon fiber), and sistering all have merit where the repair achieves the needed structural strength and is cheaper than ripping it all out and starting anew. Only you can make that judgement, but gather as much info on the extent of the needed repair vs the desired outcome before you decide. Whew, this discussion makes me glad almost all of my body wood was healthy, about all we replaced were the mounting blocks and a few roof ribs. Last edited by Mister Moose; 11-28-2020 at 06:35 PM. |
11-29-2020, 10:25 AM | #25 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
another thought on strengthening wood is using hanger bolts.
excellent for pulling two solid pieces of wood together, while using the epoxy elixirs............ |
01-30-2021, 05:40 PM | #26 |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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01-30-2021, 06:12 PM | #27 | |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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02-01-2021, 12:18 PM | #28 | |
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Re: Repair of Soft Wood
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I definitely wish you the best. Unfortunately, my first-hand experiences with a constantly twisting and flexxing Fordor body being driven 'counters' the recommendations of an engineer who is working with a structure that does not twist or flex like a vehicle does when they are driven. However, with that said, maybe if you make your Fordor a static fixture much like a house is, then your successes may be great using that product. |
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