1931 Pickup Journal

[31pickup650]

Howdy. This is my grandpa's 1931 Model A pickup:



It was sitting in his driveway for quite a while and he wasn't using it. Now that I have a place of my own, the truck joined me here in Ohio (I am originally from California). I shipped it out here with Intercity Lines and would recommend them. They did a great job. Here it is coming off the truck:



It ran a couple years ago, but didn't by the time we shipped it out here so I had to push it into my garage. For barely weighing a ton, it sure felt heavy!



I figured out it wasn't getting any spark and replaced the wire leading from the terminal box to the generator. The coating had worn off and it was grounding itself. After that, it would chug, but wouldn't run when I tried starting it. I cleaned out the carburetor and that did the trick. It still a bit rough. The idle is not the best, but it seems to be running really lean. When i pull the choke in a little bit when its running and warm, it smooths right out. The plugs were all covered in carbon and one had some oil on it. I am replacing those and the gasket between the carburetor and the manifold since that is currently missing and probably causing the lean air/fuel mixture.

I gave it a quick test drive up the driveway:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n79ezto8jv...%20pm.mp4?dl=0

I might need some help getting the carburetor settings right. I don't have much experience tuning those.

[Gary WA]

Very nice to acquire a great family vehicle! Clean it up and enjoy it. Lots of help here if needed or your area for club members go to www.mafca.com and look under chapters in your state.

[Brentwood Bob]

You did the truck a big favor by getting it to run again, now let it return the favor.
Bob

[james hitchcock]

Very nice.

[ddweave]

I can't tell for sure from the photos. Does your truck have an all-metal top, or is it fabric in the middle? I ask because I have also have a '31 wide bed pickup - with a soft top.

[Pmsqrd]

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Consider restoring only the mechanicals and wiring. Leave the exterior just the way it is. The patina looks great.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by ddweave

...I have a '31 wide bed pickup - with a soft top.

Henry made them a dozen(or more) different ways. Mine has the steel top, but has the narrow bed.

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by ddweave

I can't tell for sure from the photos. Does your truck have an all-metal top, or is it fabric in the middle? I ask because I have also have a '31 wide bed pickup - with a soft top.

It has a hard top.

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Pmsqrd

Consider restoring only the mechanicals and wiring. Leave the exterior just the way it is. The patina looks great.

That is my current plan. Clean off a bit of the dirt on windows and such, but not much more than that.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Nice truck and it is nice that it is staying in the family.

Good to see it back on the road, again.

[Fullraceflathead]

Nice looking Truck. Nice to have it in the Family and it looks complete.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

31pickup650,

What is your name?

You should put a picture of your truck on your avatar.
I finally got around to doing it myself.

to do so:
click on "private messages".
Then over on the left, click on "edit avatar".

Regard, Neil

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

31pickup650,

What is your name?

You should put a picture of your truck on your avatar.
I finally got around to doing it myself.

to do so:
click on "private messages".
Then over on the left, click on "edit avatar".

Regard, Neil

My name is Noah. I updated my avatar, so now I have a "face."

[31pickup650]

I installed the carburetor to intake manifold gasket and new spark plugs today. This is what the plugs looked like:



I cleaned them off a couple days ago, but decided to replace them to see if that helped at all. Between the new plugs and the gasket, I think it is definitely running smoother. Not as smooth as I'd like, but smoother. I took a video of it idling. It sounds like I am getting a misfire maybe every once in a while. Any ideas? Here's a link to a quick video:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2jptj7fnqm..._7368.MOV?dl=0

I also replaced the fan belt while I was at it. As you can see, it was definitely worn out and I didn't want to risk taking even a quick drive and having it break.



Next steps will be to install the seat belts I ordered and to get the spare engine up on a stand so I can try to get it to turn over.

[mshmodela]

Noah,

What kind of plugs are those? TT10s?

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Noah,

What kind of plugs are those? TT10s?

Yep.

[mshmodela]

If you're head is original (compression) I found those to be too cold of a plug. If you drive on longer trips they'll likely do fine....

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6458


I've tried W18 and W16Y...

Also, FWIW, Summit Racing has both for about the best prices..

[1955cj5]

I like it,and I like your plan to more or less leave it as is...they are only original once....

I haven't even dusted mine after it came out of the barn...interior clean-up, and mechanical repairs, mostly brakes so far.......

Randy

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

If you're head is original (compression) I found those to be too cold of a plug. If you drive on longer trips they'll likely do fine....

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6458


I've tried W18 and W16Y...

Also, FWIW, Summit Racing has both for about the best prices..

Thanks. I will give maybe a step or two hotter a try later on if these get fouled up or I can't get it running smoother. I work only about 10 minutes from Summit. A bit TOO convenient if you ask me...

[1931 flamingo]

Try putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. I usually dump 3-4 ounces in when I add gas, usually about 6 gals just to bring it above 1/2. Won't hurt anything and may help free up a sticky valve(s). FWIW
Paul in CT

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Try putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. I usually dump 3-4 ounces in when I add gas, usually about 6 gals just to bring it above 1/2. Won't hurt anything and may help free up a sticky valve(s). FWIW
Paul in CT

Does it sound like there might be a sticky valve? When I fill it up, I'll put some in. Seems like it can only help from what I understand. Thanks.

[31pickup650]

Well, I gave it another go today:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ixo5xsg8ka...%20PM.mp4?dl=0

It still isn't running all that smoothly and will die after going from being under load to being in neutral. Second gear doesn't sound great. I am not sure what it should sound like. I know there will be more noise because of the straight cut gears. I tried pulling the pin to check timing, but couldn't feel it get into the little dot on the gear to indicate top dead center. Any tips on that and on anything else to get it to run better? It seems to backfire quite a bit and just in general is running pretty rough. Thanks guys!

[1955cj5]

I used a combination of the pin and looking in the #1 spark plug hole and watching the piston reach TDC....if you feel the pin slide in...it's pretty subtle...and see the piston at the top of the bore you are good to go...also you can just put your thumb over the spark plug hole and feel for pressure, and then confirm it visually..

For me timing was as much art as science...I set the timing on mine about four separate times and I think the next time it'll be near perfect!

http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

[31pickup650]

I got the spare engine up onto the stand today. My grandpa had it rebuilt in the '60s and sat in his garage without a head on it since then. I pulled the oil pan to take a loot to see if I could see why it wasn't turning over by hand with the crank. Here are a couple pics:







There seems to be a decent bit of dust in the little bit of oil thats there. What do you guys suggest to do from here? Take everything apart, clean it all, and then reassemble? Try to lube it up and get it to spin? Thanks.

[Floats]

Hi Noah,
I dont want to offend you, but you have mentioned the choke however not a word about the GAV function.
Are you aware that by turning the choke lever you can adjust the mixture? Full clockwise will be lean, most cars will not run in this position but will be happy at about half to one turn counter clockwise.
Please don't take offence if you were aware of this little gadget.
Regards
Chris

[31pickup650]

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Originally Posted by Floats

Hi Noah,
I dont want to offend you, but you have mentioned the choke however not a word about the GAV function.
Are you aware that by turning the choke lever you can adjust the mixture? Full clockwise will be lean, most cars will not run in this position but will be happy at about half to one turn counter clockwise.
Please don't take offence if you were aware of this little gadget.
Regards
Chris

Yes, I am aware. No offense taken . Turning the knob doesn't seem to make a difference. I have a Model B carb and from what I can see, mine doesn't actually turn anything at the carb when you turn the knob in the cab. I have tried turning the place where the choke connects to the carburetor and it doesn't budge. Not sure if there is something wrong there or if the Model B carburetor is slightly different than the A.

[Floats]

Yep, I have no knowledge of the B at all and I think It might very well be different.
I found it strange the you never mentioned turning the nob before, but I realise now.
Have a great weekend.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Floats

Yep, I have no knowledge of the B at all and I think It might very well be different.
I found it strange the you never mentioned turning the nob before, but I realise now.
Have a great weekend.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town

Thanks for the help. Hopefully someone with knowledge of the B carburetor can help. That way I know if it is supposed to be turning and just isn't or if it simply doesn't turn.

[31pickup650]

I took the Model A for its first test drive today. It went roughly how I expected it. I replaced all the seals inside the carburetor and the manifold gasket. It definitely seemed to help. It didn't stall when I went from revving the engine to not putting any throttle in. While driving, it backfired pretty badly under load. The radiator boiled over after about a mile when I turned around. There was a lot of dirt that came out so I guess another flush or two might be in order. Would the timing being out be enough to cause it to backfire that badly? I tried checking it myself, but I couldn't feel the pin going in on the cam gear. I am going to have a friend turn the engine while I feel for it. As for the radiator, I am planning on doing the flush with vinegar, based on what I've read, and then using distilled water with Water Wetter once it's all clean. It also still seems to be running a bit lean. A quick pull on the choke seems to help when it is about to stall. When I had the carburetor apart, I checked to see if turning the choke control valve makes any adjustment on the carb. The place that it attaches to on the carb doesn't twist at all. I guess this is the way it is on the Model B carb? Thanks.

[Brentwood Bob]

try using a stubby phillups head screw driver to feel for the timing gear detent.
On your list of things to check I would see if your intake and exhaust manifold are leaking. also the gasket between the carb and the intake.
Bob

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

try using a stubby phillups head screw driver to feel for the timing gear detent.
On your list of things to check I would see if your intake and exhaust manifold are leaking. also the gasket between the carb and the intake.
Bob

Bob, I just replaced those gaskets so hopefully the new ones aren't leaking. I will try the screw driver trick. Thanks!

[1955cj5]

I'm able to turn the engine by hand using the fan belt...that way you can feel for the detent and turn the engine....it is not much of a hole...very shallow..

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

I'm able to turn the engine by hand using the fan belt...that way you can feel for the detent and turn the engine....it is not much of a hole...very shallow..

Yeah, it's just hard to really focus on feeling it while turning. I can turn it not problem.

[Quigley1930]

Take the plugs out and get someone to turn the crank. Take the cap off the dist. and when the rotor gets near the #1 contact is when you want to be ready to feel the indent. That is if it's anywhere near timed correctly

If you find the indent find Purdy Swofts method of timing.

Sewall Tyler

[Quigley1930]

Should have included Tom Wesenberg's method of timing also. He has pictures

Sewall

[31pickup650]

I got the timing set correctly with the help from another forum member. In the process, I learned that the needle that controls the air/fuel mixture was seized up. It was stuck in the leanest setting which would explain why the engine was still running lean after replacing gaskets and checking for air leaks. The engine runs a lot smoother now and I will be taking it for a test drive this weekend. The concern I have now is that the radiator is still clogged up even after flushing it. I will investigate that more this week before test driving it.


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[31pickup650]

I got to go for another test drive tonight. It was successful! I drove for a couple of miles and was cruising along at about 40-45 mph. It was definitely a lot of fun. I do have one a question about shifting. I was coasting down a long hill in neutral to play it safe with the engine on this first time out and then wanted to get into third gear. I could't get it to go in. It was just grinding. I tried rev matching, but maybe didn't give it enough revs. Any tips? Thanks.

https://youtu.be/UnLQyrT_RhM

[Tom Wesenberg]

Coasting is unsafe and illegal. You'll need some more practice to find the right engine speed for shifting. You need to rev the engine (usually more than you think) with your foot off the clutch, then push the clutch in and shift to third. If you try to go from neutral with the engine at idle at 40 MPH, then you need to rev the engine to about 2000 RPM.

Remember, as soon as you push the clutch in, the tranny input shaft will start slowing down, so it's better to slightly over rev the engine instead of under rev it.

[mshmodela]

Noah, if you wish, I could come out and see how you're shifting etc...I might be able to show you a few pointers..

[31pickup650]

I wasn't aware that is illegal. I had no problems downshifting at slower speeds, I just was afraid to rev the engine that high. I do a lot of rev matching and heel toe downshifting in my other car for autocross and track days. I have a tach on that one though! Thanks for the help guys.


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[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Noah, if you wish, I could come out and see how you're shifting etc...I might be able to show you a few pointers..

Yeah we could maybe meet up to even just talk model a stuff.


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[Clem Clement]

Love your truck. What is its name?
I'm with the others: do the safety work and drive it as it is. Grampa will be happy seeing it on the road again.

[1930artdeco]

Hi Noah,

Sounds like you got the carb figured out and she runs well. To take full advantage of the B carb at some point you will need to either bore out an A intake or get a B manifold. The B carb has a larger throat than an A carb. If I remember correctly it is the one with the vacuum port at the back of the manifold. There are two different ones and one will line up with the A choke rod and one won't. You have a great truck and I am glad you are keeping it in the family.

Mike

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

Love your truck. What is its name?
I'm with the others: do the safety work and drive it as it is. Grampa will be happy seeing it on the road again.

Thanks. Truck doesn't have a name, we all just refer to it "The Model A." He and my mom, aunts, and uncles are all very pleased. I am going to have to find the pictures of them in the truck as kids.


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[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by 31pickup650

That is my current plan. Clean off a bit of the dirt on windows and such, but not much more than that.

I, personally, would scrub it up REALLY, REALLY, REALLY good, EVERY INCH of it, with T.S.P. & water & scrub brushes. It will still have PLENTY of PATINA
Bill W.

[Fred K-OR]

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Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Hi Noah,

Sounds like you got the carb figured out and she runs well. To take full advantage of the B carb at some point you will need to either bore out an A intake or get a B manifold. The B carb has a larger throat than an A carb. If I remember correctly it is the one with the vacuum port at the back of the manifold. There are two different ones and one will line up with the A choke rod and one won't. You have a great truck and I am glad you are keeping it in the family.

Mike

I had a B carb on my huckster. I found it did use more gas than my coupe. I did not have the larger throat bored out of the intake port so maybe that is why did not give good mileage. I finally took it off and put on one of my rebuilt A carbs and now the huckster runs great.

I think the stats say just using the B carb it adds a HP or so while if you bore out your intake port, you can get additional HP's.

Good luck with your pickup. BTW did you change the oil before you started running it around? May want to do that because the oil may contain a lot of stuff that doesn't do your engine much good.

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

I had a B carb on my huckster. I found it did use more gas than my coupe. I did not have the larger throat bored out of the intake port so maybe that is why did not give good mileage. I finally took it off and put on one of my rebuilt A carbs and now the huckster runs great.

I think the stats say just using the B carb it adds a HP or so while if you bore out your intake port, you can get additional HP's.

Good luck with your pickup. BTW did you change the oil before you started running it around? May want to do that because the oil may contain a lot of stuff that doesn't do your engine much good.

I think you're right. A shop had some dyno numbers with the various combinations, but the B carb didn't look like it really have any gains. I changed the oil before running it. The oil pan and rear main seals are leaking pretty badly so I will drop the pan and really clean it out and change the oil again this winter.


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[Quigley1930]

I remember Daddy turning the engine off and coasting every chance he had to save gas during the war.

Sewall

[31pickup650]

I figured out that the bulbs are blown and that's why I lost the headlights during the last drive.




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[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 31pickup650

I figured out that the bulbs are blown and that's why I lost the headlights during the last drive.




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You either reached the advertised 1000 hour use, or more likely had a voltage spike from a bad connection, if you use an unregulated generator. If you use an alternator, it's recommended to make sure the alternator is already kinked in and charging before you turn on the lights.

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You either reached the advertised 1000 hour use, or more likely had a voltage spike from a bad connection, if you use an unregulated generator. If you use an alternator, it's recommended to make sure the alternator is already kinked in and charging before you turn on the lights.

I am not sure if I have an unregulated generator or not. Should I replace the bulbs and see how it goes or is there a good way to test the connections to see if there is a bad connection? They worked fine for a while and then blew when I was taking it for its first real test drive with the lights on. Sounds like it could be a spike because of that and what you said. Thanks.


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[31pickup650]

Another topic, I have been trying to flush out the radiator and it comes out looking like this:



I have distilled vinegar in there now and already did that flush once. I got it nice and hot yesterday with the vinegar in there and will maybe get another shot at driving today. Would you recommended continuing to flush or just pulling the radiator to take it somewhere to get cleaned? I haven't flow tested it yet.


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[31pickup650]

I have been doing some work on the truck recently. I replaced the tires that had a date code from 1943 with some fresh Goodyears:

[31pickup650]

I replaced the spark plugs with some hotter ones. I went with Champion W16Y I bought on
After taking it for a spin, I still had bad overheating problems. I pulled the radiator to swap the spare I have that is in better shape. I am going to take it to a radiator shop to make sure its completely clean before installing it. There was a thick brown sludge that came out of the one I removed.





"New" is on the right.

[Brentwood Bob]

Flush the block before you reinstall a radiator. the vinegar loosened up alot of stuff you never want in the radiator. If you are going to run straight water add soluble oil (napa carries it) to lube the waterpump, and maybe napa cool to retard rust.
There is another school of thought to use antifreeze.
Bob

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

Flush the block before you reinstall a radiator. the vinegar loosened up alot of stuff you never want in the radiator. If you are going to run straight water add soluble oil (napa carries it) to lube the waterpump, and maybe napa cool to retard rust.
There is another school of thought to use antifreeze.
Bob

What's the best way to flush the block? I have to imagine it's as bad in there as it was in the radiator. I was going to run distilled water with Redline Water Wetter.


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[Brentwood Bob]

I rigged up some pvc fittings to clamp to the outlet so I could run water from a hose into the block and also have an air line coupler so i could push the water out the block inlet. I used a long piece of radiator hose on the inlet(drivers side of the block) to run it into a pan under the car. I then would strain the captured discharge and filter it thru a funnel with an old t shirt to see what was coming out.
I also reversed the setup to try and flush out the head and got more stuff that way.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 31pickup650

What's the best way to flush the block? I have to imagine it's as bad in there as it was in the radiator. I was going to run distilled water with Redline Water Wetter.


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Here's a thread on flushing the engine and radiator. See my pictures in #25. That's the only way I'd backflush.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ator+sump+pump

[Dollar Bill]

Rube Goldberg back flushing contraption. Interesting to note difference in results after adding air to back flushing procedure. I had flushed this engine for several hours just using water and water looked fairly clean. Third photo shows results after first blow with air pressure.

[Tom Wesenberg]

What Bill shows in the pan is also what my sump pump drove out of the block and radiator times 3. That's why I would recommend a filter in the top hose, at least for several miles until you are sure you have trapped the junk before it plugs the tubes.

[john charlton]

Before you go further you really really need to drop the oil pan and clean it out . I think you will be astounded at what you have been pumping around the engine . Also clean out the valve chest ,debris in there can block the 3 holes which supply the main bearings with oil . I know the oil looked lovely clear and golden when you checked it but all the goop,water,acids etc etc were settled out just around the oil pump pickup . Check "You Tube " there is a post on what a oil pan looked like after a long standing engine was fired up .

John in damp mild Suffolk County England .

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by john charlton

Before you go further you really really need to drop the oil pan and clean it out . I think you will be astounded at what you have been pumping around the engine . Also clean out the valve chest ,debris in there can block the 3 holes which supply the main bearings with oil . I know the oil looked lovely clear and golden when you checked it but all the goop,water,acids etc etc were settled out just around the oil pump pickup . Check "You Tube " there is a post on what a oil pan looked like after a long standing engine was fired up .

John in damp mild Suffolk County England .

John, I changed the oil and need to replace the pan gasket and will be cleaning the pan when I do that. I have seen that video and it is crazy!






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[31pickup650]

I gave a quick flush with just a hose and bucket while I work on another contraption. Got a lot of murky water and debris. Ran the hose through the upper hose until the water ran clear. Then continued for a couple more minutes. This is some of the debris:




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[john charlton]

It is good you changed the oil but only if you drop the pan now . Most likely you used a modern multi grade which does contain a detergent element . This detergent will break down all the carbon deposits inside the engine and in effect clean the engine internals . The down side is that this crud is now in suspension in your oil ,not good .When you drop the pan you will need to pop out the dipper tray . Various tricks to do this ,the barners will tell you how !!!

John in still no weather today Suffolk County England /

[31pickup650]

Originally Posted by john charlton

It is good you changed the oil but only if you drop the pan now . Most likely you used a modern multi grade which does contain a detergent element . This detergent will break down all the carbon deposits inside the engine and in effect clean the engine internals . The down side is that this crud is now in suspension in your oil ,not good .When you drop the pan you will need to pop out the dipper tray . Various tricks to do this ,the barners will tell you how !!!

John in still no weather today Suffolk County England /

John, I used used 30 weight non-detergent oil for that reason. I plan to do the pan pretty soon. It will be before I start driving it again and after getting the fuel and radiator all sorted.

[john charlton]

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You did good !!! . Years ago my late mother in law killed her beloved pre war sedan by putting the then new Shell "X 100" oil in her engine (the garage man did it) I had told her not to put this oil in as disaster would follow ,turned the oil into black soup and wiped out the beaings . I never had the heart to say "I told you so " !!!

John in same weather Suffolk County England

[31pickup650]

While being at home a lot more now, I started doing some work on the truck for the first time since 2016 to get it running better.

I started off last month getting a new battery and draining the gas from 2016 and cleaning out the carb. Surprisingly, the car started up fairly quickly. I fixed some of the leaks on the new rad hoses from when I added the temp probe pipe.

Driving it up and down the road a few times showed some issues with stumbling under load. I gave it a pretty thorough Seaform treatment and replaced the wire from the ignition coil (the sheathing was split) and that seemed to clear up some the stumbling.

There was quite a bit of oil on the plugs and in the cylinders and I did a compression test to see how things were. Things were not good: 46/44/36/44 PSI.... I've continued driving it around, but the engine is definitely on its last legs. It is super slow going trudging up hills. The radiator I got cleaned out definitely works well. The temperature gauge stays around 170-180 driving around in 80 degree weather.

[31Cabriolet68-C]

Super truck...
What a fine way to keep the family tradition alive.
It's great that you have been reading the Barn posts about taking a car out of deep storage, but one part seems not to have been mentioned, so I have a question:
Did you check your fan blade?
It can't be emphasized enough...
When they let go, they can be killers.
Safety is essential, cracks can be virtually microscopic, and "rust never sleeps", so, if you haven't yet, then I'd urge you to replace that original fan blade next time you place an order with one of the Model A parts vendors...
Check out the other threads on this topic... They ought to scare the bejesus out of you!!!! TallyHo
JB

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by 31pickup650

While being at home a lot more now, I started doing some work on the truck for the first time since 2016 to get it running better.

I started off last month getting a new battery and draining the gas from 2016 and cleaning out the carb. Surprisingly, the car started up fairly quickly. I fixed some of the leaks on the new rad hoses from when I added the temp probe pipe.

Driving it up and down the road a few times showed some issues with stumbling under load. I gave it a pretty thorough Seaform treatment and replaced the wire from the ignition coil (the sheathing was split) and that seemed to clear up some the stumbling.

There was quite a bit of oil on the plugs and in the cylinders and I did a compression test to see how things were. Things were not good: 46/44/36/44 PSI.... I've continued driving it around, but the engine is definitely on its last legs. It is super slow going trudging up hills. The radiator I got cleaned out definitely works well. The temperature gauge stays around 170-180 driving around in 80 degree weather.

Thanks for posting , have not seen this string before since it was before I joined FB in 2018.



You are going through most of what I went through with my Dad's truck. It is definitely a learning experience, and you have gotten good advice from the other members.


As far as your carb, a cause of having to choke, stumbling, die at stop can also be a worn throttle plate shaft/bushing. Air sucks through the loose fitting shaft/bushing. Causes a lean mixture. Sometimes overlooked when being rebuilt.


Good luck and keep posting. These strings are always a great read.


When its back together a few closer pics and pics of the interior please.

[31pickup650]

After a hiatus from working on the truck, I got it up on some jack stands and started looking at the brakes and front axle. There was a ton of play in the kingpins and also pretty poor wear on the brake drums. I took all that off and cut out the studs out. I’ll be rebuilding the brakes and putting on some new cast iron drums and new shoes.

Cutting out the studs with a hole saw:



The drum surface with lots of grooves and wear:



I’ve got new bushings pressed in the spindle, but there’s a part that sticks out now. I guess I need to cut them flush? It’s square on the side that sits on the axle.





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