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11-09-2020, 03:03 PM | #1 |
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1936 starter switch mounting
Does any have a diagram of the location and mounting of the floor starter switch
for 1936 cabriolet. I appreciate it. Thank you, Blast. |
11-09-2020, 06:42 PM | #2 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
The starter switch is mounted on the top of the frame rail near the steering box with two 1/4 x 28 bolts and nuts. The button comes up through a hole in the floor board between the clutch and brake pedals. Regards, Kevin.
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11-09-2020, 07:05 PM | #3 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
Here are some images showing the starter switch mounting holes on top of the frame. Ignore the hydraulic master brake cylinder!!!
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11-10-2020, 09:42 AM | #4 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
Not very clear but best I have.
__________________
Wayne |
11-10-2020, 11:58 AM | #5 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
Factory 36 Ford photo shows start switch on top of frame.
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11-10-2020, 01:46 PM | #6 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
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For you photos that made it that much easier to locate and install the switch. Sorry I have to ask but what wires go to the bottom of the switch. Any diagrams would help. Thanks, Blast. |
11-10-2020, 01:57 PM | #7 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
I’m assuming that the ground Cable of the battery to the chassis which would be the positive side of the battery. Then the negative side battery cable to the switch terminal and one terminal of the switch cable to the starter. Where does the coil wire go.
I’m not sure if I’m right please explain, Thanks, Blast |
11-10-2020, 03:57 PM | #8 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
The coil wire attaches to the ignition switch on the steering column. From that switch it goes to one side of the ballast resistor located on the firewall. From the ballast resistor it goes along with other wires through the firewall and goes down the left side of the engine to the coil. The other wires include those for the generator and are all located inside the spark plug wires tube. I hope this helps.
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11-10-2020, 04:49 PM | #9 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
Thank you Gary, the problem I have is I don’t have any harness in the car and was hoping I can start the car without it. If a temporary put the coil wire to the battery would that be sufficient to have spark.
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11-10-2020, 10:26 PM | #10 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
If your coil is original mounted on the distributor then it has to have the matching ford ballast resistor in line/series to the battery. The coil runs on about 4 volts, not straight 6 volts from the battery. If you run it on 6 volts then the coil could be damaged or overheated and the distributor points damaged. Get yourself a Ford V8 1936 drivers handbook or the V8 club 1935 -36 restoration book and study up on the wiring diagram. Regards, Kevin.
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11-10-2020, 10:34 PM | #11 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
I did a few months of work some years ago getting a ‘35 convertible sedan back to closer to original.
The body had been put on a ‘40 chassis. We left the hydraulic brakes but put the floor starter in. We knew it sits on top of the frame but since ‘37 and later frames have no starter holes, they have a push button starter. I had trouble finding the exact place to drill them. The bare frames from ‘35 through ‘40 are the same exact for the starter switch holes and brake tubing mounting places. We left the dash mounted push button starter to run the electric fuel pump when the car has been parked long enough for the carb to go dry. It also had a ,37 engine. I rebuilt an LB engine to make it look more like it has a ‘35 engine in it. And yes, running a wire from the battery to the coil to start the engine is ok, but that is bypassing the resistor. Won’t hurt to run it a while that way. |
11-11-2020, 03:58 AM | #12 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
The start button would never run a fuel pump. It's a momentary connection to the starter to start. The ignition or power switch might. But that will never start a car till later. On a 36 there is a large lead from the battery to the stomp, then a lead to the starter. That is it. Power to everything else is controlled by the ignition switch.
The 36 stomp starter does not have coil solenoids. The old ones can be fixed. It's a on/off switch. It cares very little about the pole you connect it to really but. Clean it up and go with it. The stomp starter is as old as the model A's. Solenoids replaced stomps. Frame has the holes built in and match the floor. . Last edited by Tinker; 11-11-2020 at 04:36 AM. |
11-11-2020, 04:14 AM | #13 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
You can run it that way to see how it runs. Over time it'll most likely give you issues. i'd suggest getting a harness. It's cheaper to buy what you need then invent a way around it. Nothing wrong with going with a later solenoid. Just buy the right harness for what you want. Sacramento ford has great original harnesses. Just figure out what you want. Know what condition your condition is.
It's easy to wire a flathead to test run it. But if you are going to use it as driver. Wire it as designed. Leave all the other strange suggestions alone. Last edited by Tinker; 11-11-2020 at 04:31 AM. |
11-11-2020, 10:02 AM | #14 | |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
Quote:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ings_links.htm |
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11-11-2020, 11:49 AM | #15 |
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Re: 1936 starter switch mounting
Thanks fellas I think I can take it from here.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond. That’s why we are here on this forum. To help one another continue in this hobby. I appreciate the knowledge of our seniors and those who have learned from them. I want to take a moment to thank our Veterans today who have fought and those who gave the ultimate sacrifice to keep our freedom. I want to say thank you. Last edited by Blastfromthepast; 11-11-2020 at 11:58 AM. |
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