How do you?....... (Mech. Brakes)

[Terry, NJ]

Still getting my coupe back together! It's somewhat more difficult with brake rods to contend with. I straightened a bend or two now the rear brakes are dragging (they were free when I removed the rear) on the drivers side and partially engaged on the pass side. I tried backing them off by turning the adjuster CCW.
It didn't do a thing! After much difficulty, I got the drum off. I can't imagine the E-brake closing any more. And I can't retract the service shoes by adjustment.
Am I correct about CCW being the right direction to back off the brakes? Why were they free before and tight now?
Terry

[Mitch//pa]

Make sure your axles are supported
If they are hanging it will pull on the brake rods... just a thought

Yes CCW is correct to back them off

[Big hammer]

If your not feeling a click when turning, try tapping very lightly on the adjuster and turn 1/8 of a turn. Lefty loosely - righty tighty in this case :-)
Tapping on the very end of the adjuster not on the side!

[Terry, NJ]

Thanks guys! But how do I back them off? I turned it several clicks and it doesn't want to back off any more and I have a really high brake pedal. I can not get the drum back on.

[Mitch//pa]

Try disconnecting the brake rods if you have not already... both of them

[Tom Wesenberg]

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What was done to the brakes or rear end that it needed to come apart?

If no new shoes or drums, then I can't imagine why they won't go back on. As Mitch said, start by removing the brake rods and see what happens. Are you sure both of the brake shoes are tight to the adjuster?

[Big hammer]

Did you turn ccw looking from the back side of the backing plate or ccw from the wheel side

[Terry, NJ]

OK, I put the rear back into the car. I noticed that I really had to pull on the levers and rods to make them line up. This seemed odd to me as it was not the case when I removed them. OH well, I put a new 7/8 pedal bar and bushings, maybe that accounts for it. And I straightened the left (drivers) side rod as it had gotten bent in disassembly. The left wheel dragged but turned, not good, but not too bad. The right wheel was virtually locked. I could barely turn it and only by gripping it with both hands and lifting, using the spokes. So I tried backing the shoes off by turning the adjuster CCW. I was facing the rear of the backing plate when I did it. No luck! The adjuster wasn't doing it! Finally I got the drum off!. Everything seemed ok, (who really knows, it's my first one) and the shoes had lots of life. So I went to put the drum back on and it was no go! I then took Mitch's advice and disconnected the rods. The levers sprang back into position, almost full travel and the wheels suddenly came to life. So I pulled the lever back to where the holes matched and again, the wheel was locked! OOK! It's the rod adjustment! I lenghtened the rod 3/4" and the wheel is still dragging , though not as much. So, What's the story. It seems like a rod adjustment is in order , but there are 5 of them9 2 service brakes, 2 emergency brakes and the pedal rod. Not to mention the front brakes. Any suggestions? And what did I do throw it off so much? Would new pedal bushings and a new pedal rod throw it off that much? TIA
Terry

[Mitch//pa]

Start form scratch as mentioned here... every step:::: the brake pedal strep is very important....To save a lot of typing i copied and pasted my friend Purdy's post. This works for me

QUOTE Purdy:::
Here is what works for me ,,even if there is wear in the system. Disconnect all of the service brake rods at the clevis end. Adjust the brake pedal rod so that the brake switch plunger is 1/16 inch from the inside back of the center cross member with the brake pedal at the top of its travel. This is where the pedal rod plunger contacts the brake light switch on the 30-31 models. In extreme cases, to give more threads at the clevises it may be necessary to adjust the pedal rod all the way back to the center crossmember without the 1/16 gap. Because there will nearly always be some wear in rear wheel bearings and axle housing bearing races, I first adjust the rear brakes. With any wear, rear brake adjustments made with the rear wheels off the ground will be TOO tight with the wheels on the ground. With the tires properly inflated for easy roll, I adjust the rear brakes with the tires on the shop floor. You only want very slight drag if any or the brakes will quickly overheat. Unless something is too tight, wheel bearings, brakes or the tires are low, a man should be able to slightly push the car back and forth by hand while making adjustments at the rear wedges to determine brake drag. You don't want much drag. After the rear brake adjustments at the rear wedges have been made Move to the front. With jack stands under the front axle, adjust the front brakes at the wedges untill the brakes lock and back off as needed .You can check brake action by spinning the wheel and moving the brake lever by hand before connecting the brake rods. After the front wedges are adjusted, its time to move on to the brake rod connections . If you want good brakes, BELIEVE me, forget about any exact measurement here !!!!!!! The brake rods need to all be adjusted at the clevis ends so that the clevis pins will just enter the pin holes with ALL slack removed. This setup will have the pedal at the top of its travel and ready to put the lining to the drum. There is no need to concern yourself about whether the rear brakes engage first, its built in. I guarantee that if the brakes are right or even have some wear this setup will give very good brakes. anything less will not. In testing and as new parts wear in, adjustments will need to be monitored I usually make panic stops in sand or dirt to guage skid marks and adjust as needed.

[Terry, NJ]

Mitch! Purdy knows his stuff! No doubt about it! However, in looking at the rods just now, I think I may have them hooked up wrong. What I need is a good picture of the front of the backing plate with the rods to see if i have them wrong. I think I may have put the service brake rod on the emergency brake and vice versa. I've been looking for an illustration in my Ford A books, but haven't found one yet. I should have taken a picture of it! My other two cars are hydro.
Terry

[Mitch//pa]

The ebrake lever has the return spring wrapped around it behind the backing plate..

It also sits behind the service brake lever

[Tom Wesenberg]

Does this help?

[Terry, NJ]

Thanks Tom!

[Mitch//pa]

In Toms pic the e-brake lever is on the left