non adjustable valves

[V4F]

figured out

[dpson]

Model A's came with non-adjustable lifters, so unless they've been added, the only way to adjust the valve clearance is to pull the head, remove the valve(s) and grind the end of the valve stem (if too little clearance). New valves with longer stems are required if the clearance is too great and the stems need to be ground to meet spec. It's a cumbersome and time consuming process and to be done right requires the use of a valve stem grinder tool.

[mike657894]

replace them. new valves or old ones out of adjustment?

[V4F]

the motor was rebuilt by a know company . I cant believe they would install non adjustable valves . but seems so ……… thanks .. steve

[J Franklin]

Are the tappets the adjustable type? What is the symptom you are trying to correct?

[John]

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Most of the time the valves can be adjusted in the Model A if adjustable tappets are in place by rotating the crankshaft until the adjustable tappet is at its highest point. With tappet wrenches, there is usually enough height on the tappet. I have used a dial indicator and a feeler gauge to make the job a bit easier. With the valve on the seat, I read the clearance with the feeler gauge and compare it to the specifications. Then by rotating the crankshaft I raise the valve and tappet to the highest point, set the dial indicator on the valve head, and then adjust up or down the amount needed and verified by the dial indicator to set the clearance. This process reduces the up and down cycles for adjustment.
I do admit that with some reground camshafts, the maximum tappet height may be much lower than with a camshaft that hasn't been ground. When that happens, you are forced to resort to grinding the stem or grinding the valve face and seat to provide the correct valve clearance.

Good luck,

John

[V4F]

it has lifters that are adjustable . lifters have flat sides for a wrench & the tappets are interference fit with nut for wrench on top . the problem is they do not come out of block enough to get a wrench on them . pic of style of lifter attached ………… thanks

[PalAl]

This may be helpfull

[Nosetime]

Believe it or not, It's not too bad doing it blind. Check clearance, rotate to get access to the nut, adjust and return to position- check clearance again. After a couple cycles, you get real good at estimating the amount of turns to get the desired change. Your results may vary!

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by V4F

the problem is they do not come out of block enough to get a wrench on them . pic of style of lifter attached ………… thanks

How do you suppose they adjusted them when the engine was rebuilt?

[V4F]

im not sure how they adjusted them at rebuild . pix attached

[Nosetime]

Old timer V8 flathead guy told me some would grind away guide to reveal nut, but I did it the way I explained. I started with disassembled engine, so a fair amount of trial and error. If you just need to adjust... again, it will not be that bad. One last tip. Mine was a reground H&H cam, even rotated there was less than the full nut exposed on a couple. I ground down a well fitting old open end thin enough to turn the nut.

[V4F]

yes mine are cut , but a little late for this motor . just confusing as to how short the seem ……………. thanks

[redmodelt]

Take the spark plugs out. Get a chart or instructions for adjusting valves. For example, bring the first valve you are going to adjust down till the lifter is on the heel of the cam and take measurement, rotate the engine till the lifter is fully up on the toe. Adjust the needed amount to get gap, rotate the engine till on heel for same valve, recheck and repeat as needed. Then go onto next valve.



or read post Number 7 (the rest will help too);


https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthrea...alve+adjusting


Knowing the threads per-inch it can be figured out how many thousands the adjuster on the lifter will move up or down for each rotation or part rotation. That is how I do mine on engines with un-cut lifter bosses. You will still need to do as in my first suggestion, but may need less rotations of the engine to get there.

If the engine is new without many miles and you really want to check, that's great. If it was set up by the builder then depending on the miles should not really need anything yet.
Yes it is time consuming and a pain in the rear, but should not be needed very often for general maintenance unless the valves are ground or other issues related to valve train.

[rocket1]

Banger,I know what your problem is because I had the same problem trying to adjust my tappet clearance,They were the double nut type and the lifters are machined for a wrench the problem is the lifter does not come out of the bore high enough to get a grip on it so you could lock down the jam nut.I pulled the head,big job! I think next time I will try to compress the spring,push the valve up so I can raise the lifter higher out of the bore to reach and hold the lifter while i make the adjustment,might not work,but worth a try.

[100IH]

So, for the sake of meaningful discussions, you do have adjustable lifters. Now you have to learn how to measure the gap when the lobes are down and then raise the valves, one at a time to the highest point so adjustment can be made knowing that one flat equals .007. "

[Kurt in NJ]

for the lifters to be that low how small is the base circle of the cam

[V4F]

kurt , I believe you are correct . thanks


all is good . thank you all …………. steve

[johnneilson]

Steve,
typically when a reground cam is used with the short lifters like this, the bosses are machined down shorter to allow for the lifter to be exposed when up on the lobe.
I know that doesn't help right now.
So, to cheat fate with the head on, find a very large "C" style spring compressor that can reach over the head and catch the spring retainer. Be careful to not bent valve against the head too hard, it should allow you to lift the lifter up and catch the flats.

Enjoy, John
PS. done this before once, lernt my lesson

[V4F]

I think we have a plan , but will keep that in mind . I think I do have big enough ………
thanks