11-09-2020, 06:13 PM | #1 |
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distributor
well thought it was carb. Nope lots of fuel. No spark when a plug connected right to new coil. Gonna get into point. is there half a chance of doing in situ or must dist be removed?
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11-09-2020, 06:18 PM | #2 |
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Re: distributor
What engine??
R |
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11-09-2020, 06:26 PM | #3 |
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Re: distributor
46 flat 239
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11-09-2020, 06:33 PM | #4 |
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Re: distributor
On a 46 ford he distributor needs to be removed from the engine for service or repair.
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11-10-2020, 06:25 AM | #5 |
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Re: distributor
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11-10-2020, 11:07 AM | #6 |
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Re: distributor
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11-11-2020, 07:26 AM | #7 |
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Re: distributor
Funnin ya
1 point blue and seized on pin. the other welded together. I'm gonna guess a points issue. That should fix a ton. Even coils getting too warm me thinks |
11-11-2020, 09:55 AM | #8 |
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Re: distributor
That might indicate too much current (amps) in the circuit. I would check the resistance (ohms) of the coil and any ballast resistors in the ignition circuit.
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11-11-2020, 10:12 AM | #9 |
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Re: distributor
You didn't happen to leave the ignition on while the engine was not running did you? If the points were closed at the time, something in the circuit will fry, as you essentially have a sustained short circuit.
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11-11-2020, 10:20 AM | #10 |
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Re: distributor
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11-11-2020, 10:25 AM | #11 |
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Re: distributor
Mytwofords. I tried to respond to your PM, but seems I can't for some reason. If you want, PM me your email address and contact info, and I will send you what info I have on distributor parts and rebuild.
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11-11-2020, 06:37 PM | #12 |
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Re: distributor
the screw in center of key at bottom turns in and out yet does squat??????
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11-12-2020, 10:50 AM | #13 |
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Re: distributor
There is a screw in the back end of the distributer shaft on my '46, 59A as well, and I couldn't remove it. I believe that is was an original design that was dropped. The threads at the top of the opening were "staked" after the screw was installed, so it is almost impossible to remove the screw. My thought is that a wick was installed and oiled, the screw was put in, then the threads were staked so the screw couldn't come out. There is a small hole near the outer end of the shaft, where the bearing runs, and I'm thinking that the hole connects to the area where the wick is inserted. The idea was to lube the outer bearing.
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11-12-2020, 12:08 PM | #14 | |
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Re: distributor
Quote:
I have never seen that particular configuration, but it appears to be a precursor of the button adapter to the later short cam.
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11-13-2020, 04:03 PM | #15 |
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Re: distributor
I'm GUESSING that at the end of this "VACUUM BRAKE" (scratch head) the peaces I took out look like dense felt. Do I just cut an old boot liner oil er and shove er in???
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11-13-2020, 04:18 PM | #16 |
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Re: distributor
No. The passage for the vacuum brake is on the back face of the distributor body, where the rubber O seal is. I'm surprised you got the screw out. I gave up on mine and soaked the bronze bushings in oil before I installed them, then put a light coat of hi-temp grease on the shaft where the the bushings ride.
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11-13-2020, 06:06 PM | #17 |
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Re: distributor
I think he's referring to the piece of leather that fits into the end of the piston in the vacuum brake cylinder. It is leather. A few years ago, I was restoring some older Mallory distributors that used a similar vacuum brake. After some searching, i was able to find some leather that was a full 1/4" think to make replacements for these. I think I still have some around. PM me me if interested.
(BtW, the Ford distributors used the same vacuum brake as the Mallory's.) |
11-13-2020, 07:37 PM | #18 |
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Re: distributor
I guess I didn't understand, thinking that the original question was about the screw in the back of the shaft, I think.
Twofords. Are you referring to the leather that is on the piston in the bottom left of this photo? |
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