1936 Ford V8 Service/Restoration Thread

[Ketronj281989]

I have always found the early Ford V8’s fascinating. Now at the age of 31 I have finally obtained my very own to service and enjoy. Back in June of this year 2020 an opportunity approached regarding a 1936 Ford Tudor Touring Deluxe. An elderly gentleman was selling the car and had only owned it for two years. Digging deeper regarding the car’s history I discovered it was put up on blocks in a garage back in 1984.

The car sat in that garage undisturbed until 2018. The elderly gentleman pulled the car from storage and had a mechanic replace the gas tank and install a post war fuel pump and carb. Fuel system working again, he only drove the car twice. Put back in the garage shortly after the fuel service in 2018, the car sat once again until my purchasing just recently this summer 2020.

This old Ford was the very first early V8 I had ever seen in person. I did not know about the Early Ford V8 Club of America. I did not know about the Ford Barn. I didn’t know a single soul who had ever owned a 1930’s Ford V8. Going off the information from the old man, I was led to believe this 1936 Ford Touring sedan was an all original deluxe survivor car. At this moment, let us just say the old man was maybe partially right.

I have been digging into the car and studying more about these early V8’s, especially the 1935/1936-year cars. I have the club book and 15 other books/brochures/service books detailing 1935/1936 as well as 1932-1940 V8’s. I have been committing several hours 6 days a week to reading and studying about this car. I want to know the 1935/1936-year cars inside and out. Now three months into the car and my Ford books, things are starting to look incorrect regarding mechanical and cosmetic items on the car.

There are items I am still scratching my head on when it comes to authenticity and the identity of what this car was off the line new in 1936. I wanted to document my servicing and research thru a general topic here on the forum for those who are interested as well as those seeking more information on the 1936 year Ford car. There will be plenty of questions along the way; I am brand new with Ford V8’s. This is my first pre-war car and my first mechanical experience with a pre-war car.

On the side I have been reading and studying up regarding the 1936-year Ford, all of it’s features as well as general motoring applications regarding 1930’s cars and the technology used during that time regarding mechanical items and definitions. I grew up in the 1990’s, so this pre-war car stuff is brand new to me. I am ready and willing to learn. I am the type of person that hits the ground running, so let us get started!

I will be including a YouTube video series to document the servicing of the car for those interested.


YouTube Exterior video (Disclaimer: thru much research, I now know the car is not 90-100 percent original!:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2r3butdXZY&t=111s

[Ketronj281989]

My first order of business post purchasing will be the mechanical servicing of the car. I drove the car on 6 occasions before putting it in the garage for winter servicing. All 6 of these occasions were 5 to 10 min. trips around the block. This is all the car would do before sputtering, overheating, and grinding gears. Now with that said, I have been driving a standard transmission since I was 15. This transmission seems different from a modern one; I have noticed I have to shift the transmission in this Ford slowly to allow for the synchronizer to engage. Prior to hopping into the car for the first time, I already knew reverse and 1st are not synchronized. I have since discovered am having a general transmission problem, more on that later!

Several major finding while the car was driven around the block:
- Temp. gauge fluid rose to top of sight glass within 10 minutes of running and driving
- Car would sputter, lose power upon acceleration
- Car had trouble shifting between gears, mainly 1st and 2nd
- 3rd gear was only obtained on two occasions, seemed to work fine
- Down shift from 3rd to 2nd on those two occasions seemed to work fine

I was ultra-excited to have my very own pre-war car, especially a Ford V8. I was very eager to drive it on the road. These small “outings” quickly made me realize I was going to have to perform some major service work on the car.

[Lawson Cox]

Nice looking 36. I see nothing wrong with the car other than the accessory grill guard. That is not a Ford authorized accessory, but I sort of like them myself. Welcome to the barn.

[Ketronj281989]

The tires must be decades old and are clearly unsafe to use today. Gum dipped Firestone deluxe, each tire is stamped “made in New Zealand”! The white walls on each are checkered. The spare has never been used before and has a nice bulge on one side. Guess the tube inside is possibly going bad? I would guess these tires are at least 30 years old or even older.

Nice to see the accessory stainless steel wheel bands on all 5 wheels!!

A harbor freight interior upholstery tool made from plastic is the finest tool to pull the hubcaps, no marring at all!! This was recommended here on this forum! Thanks to those who recommended this tool.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Nice looking 36. I see nothing wrong with the car other than the accessory grill guard. That is not a Ford authorized accessory, but I sort of like them myself. Welcome to the barn.

Lawson, thank you for this information. I have been wondering about the grille guard. I took off the guard several weeks ago and have removed it for good.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

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The previous owner told me the car used to run in parades and car shows back in the early 1980s and before. He did not own the car back then though. Digging in the trunk I located three boxes of small parts. Two of the boxes had an old address (likely the owner before this old man) dated 1980 and 1982. Several old sales receipts for reproduction Ford V8 spring shackles, cotter pins, and bearings were dated 1980. The glove box contained quite a few items from the 1980s. One of those items included a map dated from the early 1980s. The previous owner didn’t know much regarding the car’s history. He purchased it at an estate auction back in 2018, owned prior by a deceased friend who had it for several years prior to passing.

[petehoovie]

[QUOTE=Ketronj281989;1940120]I have always found the early Ford V8’s fascinating. Now at the age of 31 I have finally obtained my very own to service and enjoy. This old Ford was the very first early V8 I had ever seen in person./QUOTE]

[JSeery]

A good way to check the engine temperature is with an IR gun. Check it at the output of the water pump where it connects to the radiator hose (assuming water pumps located in the front of the heads).

[Brendan]

Hi! I like your car, i have a 36 Pickup, when I first got it I new a little about it I have messed with later Flatheads but not a early one. I have learned a lot hear on the Barn. and from reading and working on it. i like watching your videos on you tube. when your working on your car, one thing i can say is take your time, and don't be in a big hurry

[alanwoodieman]

I did a 36 Ford four door that was a one family owned car-the original owner was a Ford dealership owner which was the current owners great grand father. Ms Ida as we named the car was a wealth of originality but too far gone to just clean and drive.

[mercman from oz]

Hi there from Down-under. Welcome to Ford Barn and the Early Ford V8 Club of America. I am sure that you will get all the problems sorted out with a bunch of experts on Ford Barn to steer you in the right direction. At 31 years of age, you are the next generation that we need to keep these old Ford V8's on the road and continue enjoying and promoting them for generations to came. Regards Mercman <><

[cajunfirehawk]

Welcome to the barn, I have a 36 slantback but no where as nice as yours.

[Graham Freeman]

Welcome to Fordbarn from New Zealand.
You mention the tyres (tires) are stamped made in New Zealand.
Firestone in NZ made a big range of vintage tyres here before selling the moulds to the USA. This i would guess from memory was around 20-25 years ago so your tyres are going to be at least that age.
I have a set of 17" here that were one of the last sets made. I have had them in dark storage since then and am going to use them on my cabriolet.

[uncle buck]

Congratulations, Looks like you got yourself a nice car! Ricks Antique Auto Parts.... I remember buying some of my first parts there in about 1980 also.

[BOJP]

I will be following your progress. I too recently bought a 36 4 door touring sedan. It runs great and is all original. I believe I am the 4th owner. I had a 38 Chevy Master for years and sold it over 10 years ago and have been looking for years to replace it. I am considering a couple of changes to my car as well. One would be converting to 12 volt from 6. The other is from the original mechanical brakes to Hydraulic. I understand the pros and cons of changeover of the 6 t 12 volt ( I mainly like the idea of recharging the battery and lights being better). However the expense of changing over the brake system to hydraulic seems like it could be cost prohibited. I am wondering if there is a kit out there that is made to accomplish the task or would I need to invest in a lot of parts and possible have to change the wheels. Since I would be adding a master cylinder, would it be better to split the system, which is what I did on my 38 Chevy with two master cylinders, so the car would have both front and back independent stopping power. Perhaps there is a shop in the Northern California area near Sacramento that does this kind of work.

[Terranova]

Ketronj, you need to link your videos here.
Everyone needs to watch his videos. His manner and delivery are great. For someone so new to the material, he’s really done his home work.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Ketronj that is one NEAT '36 Ford! I like it!!

Congratulations, you did well. You'll have a lot of fun with the car and meet some pretty nice folks along the way

[TJ]

Originally Posted by BOJP

I will be following your progress. I too recently bought a 36 4 door touring sedan. It runs great and is all original. I believe I am the 4th owner. I had a 38 Chevy Master for years and sold it over 10 years ago and have been looking for years to replace it. I am considering a couple of changes to my car as well. One would be converting to 12 volt from 6. The other is from the original mechanical brakes to Hydraulic. I understand the pros and cons of changeover of the 6 t 12 volt ( I mainly like the idea of recharging the battery and lights being better). However the expense of changing over the brake system to hydraulic seems like it could be cost prohibited. I am wondering if there is a kit out there that is made to accomplish the task or would I need to invest in a lot of parts and possible have to change the wheels. Since I would be adding a master cylinder, would it be better to split the system, which is what I did on my 38 Chevy with two master cylinders, so the car would have both front and back independent stopping power. Perhaps there is a shop in the Northern California area near Sacramento that does this kind of work.

If you are an Early Ford V-8 Club member check your roster for members who live in Sacramento or near by. They would know of people who can help with the brakes. if not a member the $35 to join and get the V-8 Times magazine is well worth the price. www.earlyfordv8.org.

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by JSeery

A good way to check the engine temperature is with an IR gun. Check it at the output of the water pump where it connects to the radiator hose (assuming water pumps located in the front of the heads).

JSeery,

I appreciate this tip. I have a IR gun and have used it to test the temp at each output as well as top and bottom of radiator. A temp gun works great when troubleshooting!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by Brendan

Hi! I like your car, i have a 36 Pickup, when I first got it I new a little about it I have messed with later Flatheads but not a early one. I have learned a lot hear on the Barn. and from reading and working on it. i like watching your videos on you tube. when your working on your car, one thing i can say is take your time, and don't be in a big hurry

Brendan,

Thanks for your comments. The 36 pickup truck is a nice one! The Ford Barn and early V8 club forum have been a great resource for information and guidance. As I learn more I hope to eventually contribute as you all have kindly been doing. Glad you are enjoying the YouTube videos. I feel the videos provide as a great resource for those whom may have a 1936 car. I appreciate the advice, I will be sure to take my time on this one!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

I did a 36 Ford four door that was a one family owned car-the original owner was a Ford dealership owner which was the current owners great grand father. Ms Ida as we named the car was a wealth of originality but too far gone to just clean and drive.

What a neat story. Thanks for sharing. I greatly appreciate the picture of your original engine bay. I have since concluded thanks to the help of many that my engine bay has seen quite a bit of work over the years and far from original.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

Hi there from Down-under. Welcome to Ford Barn and the Early Ford V8 Club of America. I am sure that you will get all the problems sorted out with a bunch of experts on Ford Barn to steer you in the right direction. At 31 years of age, you are the next generation that we need to keep these old Ford V8's on the road and continue enjoying and promoting them for generations to came. Regards Mercman <><

Mercman,

Thanks for your posting and message regarding running board trim. Please feel free to point out any items that may be suspect on the car. I have already found many that I will slowly post about as this thread continues. Appreciate the comments regarding my age and next generation!

Thanks,

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by cajunfirehawk

Welcome to the barn, I have a 36 slantback but no where as nice as yours.

Thanks Todd.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by Graham Freeman

Welcome to Fordbarn from New Zealand.
You mention the tyres (tires) are stamped made in New Zealand.
Firestone in NZ made a big range of vintage tyres here before selling the moulds to the USA. This i would guess from memory was around 20-25 years ago so your tyres are going to be at least that age.
I have a set of 17" here that were one of the last sets made. I have had them in dark storage since then and am going to use them on my cabriolet.

Graham Freeman,

Thanks for this information. I was scratching my head regarding. Had never seen such a combination before. This car received a minor restoration back in the 1980's before it was put in storage. I could seen these tires likely new on the car back then. They will of course need replaced before I hit the road. Its a shame as these NZ Firestone's have seen little action, they are all in really nice shape with little tread wear. The spare has never been touched.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by uncle buck

Congratulations, Looks like you got yourself a nice car! Ricks Antique Auto Parts.... I remember buying some of my first parts there in about 1980 also.

Thanks uncle buck. Great movie by the way!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

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Originally Posted by Terranova

Ketronj, you need to link your videos here.
Everyone needs to watch his videos. His manner and delivery are great. For someone so new to the material, he’s really done his home work.

Terranova,

Thank you for your comments. I will slowly link all of my YouTube videos to this thread as I continue to discuss the restoration/service of this car.

Many more video's to come, stay tuned!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Ketronj that is one NEAT '36 Ford! I like it!!

Congratulations, you did well. You'll have a lot of fun with the car and meet some pretty nice folks along the way

Thank you Jeff.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

With the known history of the car now behind us, I wanted to first share several exterior/interior photo's before we dig into the mechanical side.

Exterior pictures attached of how I received the car back in June of this year. At time of purchase and first few videos I made, I had the interpretation the car was an original Deluxe survivor car. This is what the previous owner had told me. I now know this is not the case.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

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[petehoovie]

[Ketronj281989]

Thanks to the help of new found friends and fellow collectors, several exterior items are out of place on this car.

-As previously mentioned by Lawson Cox, the grille guard was not a Ford authorized accessory.

-Don Rodgers including several members on the club forum indicated the 1936 greyhound was not a Ford authorized accessory domestically in 1936. It was in Canada for Deluxe cars. Careful study of my greyhound shows the poor craftsmanship in casting and mounting on hood. Likely a reproduction from a later date.

-Mercman pointed out a great item, the stainless steel trim on the running boards. As Mercman indicated and pointed out, the trim strips are too short/reproductions. The originals would have overhang past the rubber material on each end.

This car's serial number is matching on both transmission housing and front driver side frame rail. Serial number puts production at April 1936. This could still be considered an early version for the 1936 model 68 car. As a result:

There is only one windshield wiper.

Early standards and deluxe's shared what would later become the "deluxe" spare tire cover with stainless trim ring. Both standard and deluxe used the "deluxe" spare tire trim set up during early production.

The seller told me the pin stripe was "touched up". The pin stripe is missing on the radiator grille (more on this item later). The seller did not know the radiator grille had pinstripe which leads me to believe he obtained the car this way.

Locking gas cap is incorrect.

1936 exterior door handles of this design were issued on standard models starting March 1936. Deluxe models had curved handles.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Upon looking over the car at the elderly gentleman's house, I was stunned how nice and well preserved the interior of the car was.

While well preserved, there were several items that had been "serviced" decades ago. I was not aware at the time of purchase as I knew very little about early V8 cars. In my mind though it was just the type of interior I was looking for, old and looked like it has been with the car for a very long time.

Pictures attached of the car interior as it was upon purchase.

YouTube Interior video (Disclaimer: thru much research, I now know the car is not 90-100 percent original!:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNBAVuo4eJs&t=31s


Jon

[Ketronj281989]

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[Ketronj281989]

Utilizing intense study and help from new found V8 friends there are several interior items that stand out as "rather interesting".

-The brown banjo deluxe wheel is indeed an original wheel from what I can tell. It is incorrect for this car. Brown 1936 deluxe wheel's were offered starting May of 1936 on all deluxe cars to match the new mid production brown dash interior. Before that the deluxe wheel in early production was grey.

-Front seat floor mat appears very very old, I would say at least 60+ years old. It would appear as an aftermarket item.

-I am not able to tell if the seats were ever re-upholstered. The mo-hair currently present is ancient or at least looks and feels to say the least.

-Door/window handle/crank appear different from what the 1935-1936 club books shows regarding early production 1936 model year.

-Plated dome light switch

-Dual overhead visors

-Accessory hot air heater, radio, and early 1936 mirror clock are correct and likely have been with the car for a very long time if not since it was purchased new in 1936. Currently not able to verify this claim though.

-Ignition appears to be the original with matching original keys!!

-Black painted steering column.

-Three digit trip odometer

-No deluxe window garnish

-No rear window shade


All of these items point to a new discovery, can you guess?

[Ketronj281989]

THE FACTS SEEM TO INDICATE WHAT I REALLY HAVE IS A STANDARD!

New research and discoveries have led to the carÂ’s real identity. What I truly have is a standard car that was made into a deluxe. If I were to bet, this transition took place back when the car was last active during its parade/car show days pre 1980's. Most all work on the car is weathered, most all bolts and screws are mismatched. These items are indications someone has been into this car more than once.


SERVICE/RESTORATION END GOAL: TAKE THE CAR BACK TO IT'S ORIGINAL FACTORY SET UP.

I wanted to provide a mission statement shown above before proceeding further. New developments with the car have lead me to take the car back to a stock configuration or back to stock as much as possible.

I feel I will be doing the car a great service by reinstating it's long lost identity!

Jon

[koates]

Hi Jon, nice car and you can drive and enjoy it as it is. Most of these cars had small changes and replacement items fitted over the years and that is a part of their history. Some of these changes are more reliable than the original parts such as the cast iron cylinder heads replacing the original aluminium on your engine. Also fitted is a later glass bowl fuel pump and later oil filler cap instead of the air scoop type. Some fuel lines and wiring are not correct. Generator cut out should be cad plated and not painted black. A good chance that your mirror clock is a reproduction. But as I said you dont have to make everything perfect. The grille guard I would have left fitted because it might save your grille from damage one day. I do like greyhounds so I would keep it on. Going on your interior photos , the seats at least look too good to be original whereas the headlining looks original to me. These are in no way a criticism of your car at all..Just maintain and drive it. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

I also meant to mention that your carb should be a stromberg 97 on a 36 Ford. Yours is a later 94 type. Regards, Kevin.

[Ketronj281989]

Kevin,

Thank you for your response and comments. I am all about constructive criticism and learning. Please share as much as you would like. It is nice to know the history of this Ford. Quite a few items have been added to the car or at least serviced a long time ago. The work is rather sloppy and appears to have been rushed. Many mis-matched screws and quick fixes that I don't too much care for. We will make it right!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Cosmetics out of the way for now, I wanted to move into servicing the car. Starting at the front, the engine bay appears to have several items of interest that have been replaced.

I understand these old flatheads are prone to overheating. Someone added an makeshift overflow tank long ago. I remember asking the seller about this item, he thought is was original to the car.

Upon the seller pulling the car from storage several year ago, his mechanic installed:

Post war Ford fuel pump
Post war Ford carburetor
Replaced the original copper plated steel fuel lines with rubber
Replaced spark plugs and plug wires

The fan belt was very old. As pointed out, the generator and cut out relay both have seen black paint some time prior.

The heads were replaced with cast iron a long time ago. I have heard many issues with aluminum heads. I am happy with the cast iron replacements for now.

Generator cutout wire appears replaced.

Post 1937 distributor was installed by previous owner's mechanic when the car was pulled from storage several years ago.

[Ketronj281989]

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Nice to see the remnants of the factory accessory Ford Hot Air Heater!


Jon

[BOJP]

Thank you

[Ketronj281989]

A major task I thought relatively important to tackle while at the front end of the car was the electrical lighting system. Nothing light related worked on the car, headlights-parking lights-instrument lights-dome light-taillights.

Video below was made prior to the discovery this car was originally a standard that was later made into a deluxe via a collector 30+ years ago. A decision has been made to take this car back to it's origin, a standard. Key evidence and facts point to the car's origin that it was indeed a standard car ordered/purchased by first owner in 1936.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yG7IE80VIQA&t=329s

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

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It is obvious someone has been into the electrical before I purchased the car. Several portions of the main harness appear to be part of the original though.

Jon

[al's28/33]

Welcome to the Barn there are lots of advisors here. I have received tons of help myself. If you intend to keep the car for the long haul then try to focus on one issue at a time to keep it safe and road-worthy. Electrical wiring and reliable brakes are top-o-the-list!!!!
Both of my classics were hacked up by previous owners but it has taken lots of searching to confirm 99.99999999 % of each vehicle are now "period correct" You'll find that searching for parts (no matter how small) becomes an obsession in itself.
Best of Luck.... keep posting pics of your progress.
Alan

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone! Jon, I rewired my '35 Fordor Touring in 2018 and it was a real simple job. Got all my bits from Michael Driskell. You'll get rubber coated wire with cloth covering and correct bullet tips with diagrams. He can recommend the necessaries like frame clips too. I highly recommend doing it yourself. (I had my car on a lift, which helped a lot.)

Your car is a Touring Sedan, which is the name for trunk backed cars that Ford used. ALL Touring Sedans were outfitted with DeLuxe livery. Some of the many characteristics are chrome windshield surround, dual tail-lights. Also your model came with the running board trim as it still shows.

[36crazy]

Love your car and will be following along as another mid thirties guy with a 1936 ford 2 door hump back sedan myself. Mine is also my first pre war ford and am trying to learn as I go along. Also care to sell the grill guard?

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by al's28/33

Welcome to the Barn there are lots of advisors here. I have received tons of help myself. If you intend to keep the car for the long haul then try to focus on one issue at a time to keep it safe and road-worthy. Electrical wiring and reliable brakes are top-o-the-list!!!!
Both of my classics were hacked up by previous owners but it has taken lots of searching to confirm 99.99999999 % of each vehicle are now "period correct" You'll find that searching for parts (no matter how small) becomes an obsession in itself.
Best of Luck.... keep posting pics of your progress.
Alan

Thanks Alan for your advice!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Hi Everyone! Jon, I rewired my '35 Fordor Touring in 2018 and it was a real simple job. Got all my bits from Michael Driskell. You'll get rubber coated wire with cloth covering and correct bullet tips with diagrams. He can recommend the necessaries like frame clips too. I highly recommend doing it yourself. (I had my car on a lift, which helped a lot.)

Your car is a Touring Sedan, which is the name for trunk backed cars that Ford used. ALL Touring Sedans were outfitted with DeLuxe livery. Some of the many characteristics are chrome windshield surround, dual tail-lights. Also your model came with the running board trim as it still shows.

Hi Jeff,

Thank you for your response! I will be re-wiring the car with a period correct cloth loom harness just as the original was. I am looking forward to doing so.

All touring sedans circa 1935 were outfitted with only deluxe livery. Starting 1936, offering of the touring sedan could be ordered as a standard or deluxe. The running board trim on my car is incorrect and a shorter reproduction type part. Deep study and investigation into my car shows it was originally received in 1936 as a standard and later made into a deluxe via prior owner. Judging from several reproduction parts manufactured in the 1980's found on the car, this car was likely retrofitted as an imitation deluxe right around the same time period.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Originally Posted by 36crazy

Love your car and will be following along as another mid thirties guy with a 1936 ford 2 door hump back sedan myself. Mine is also my first pre war ford and am trying to learn as I go along. Also care to sell the grill guard?

Great to hear! Any help I can provide please feel free to contact me via "private message" here on the forum. I am afraid the grille guard has already been sold prior to seeing your posting here.

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Troubleshooting started; I quickly discovered the fuse on the firewall was blown. The 1936-year electrical lighting system utilized a single fuse. This fuse tied all lights to the battery. A blown fuse indicated a short had developed somewhere in the lighting circuit. The incorporated factory fuse circuit was an important one for safety of the car. I have decided a stock set up will be installed on the car. A brand-new period correct harness will be needed, more on this item later.

Further troubleshooting indicated my short issued could be related to the lighting switch that sat inside a protective metal case below the steering column. It was discovered wires inside the protective case were frayed and several were bare wire touching each other. Not good. The switch contact points were also very dirty with heave grease which leaked from further up at the steering gear box.

I tested each head light bulb as well as parking bulb. The passenger side headlamp bulb was an ultra old Tungsol 2330. Could it be the original? Likely not, although it is period correct! All front end bulbs tested great on my 6 volt power supply! Both headlamp assemblies were disassembled for cleaning and tracing of wiring to the light switch. The original ignition resistor still in place but disconnected, a post 1936 resistor was added to this circuit. The foreign resistor is likely a 1937 component as the distributor is from the same 1937 year or later pre-war. Both resistor and distributor are incorrect for this car and will be replaced with authentic 1936 factory components. The head lamp buckets and reflectors are original to this car will be utilized. The original headlamp bucket glass still intact and 1936 originals!!

YOUTUBE VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OkGiSxH44g

[Ketronj281989]

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Notice the 1937 resistor on the left side of picture. It currently by-passes the original 1936 shown in original mounting place next to fuse on firewall. This will of course need to be changed back to a stock set up soon!

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

For those interested in a further dissection/explanation of the lighting switch and troubleshooting; video update below:

YOUTUBE VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCUJrngin8I

Near end of video we talk about troubleshooting the rear taillights.


Jon

[Ketronj281989]

Further dissection: I was most interested in finding the serial number on the transmission housing. More so interested if the number matched what was on the frame. Guess what, they do!!! Serial number: *18-2892373* Pretty rare to find a matching frame/transmission these days. I want to say the engine is original to this car as well. It has all of the 1936 features. I am 99% certain the engine is original to this car just as the frame and transmission are. We have proof on the frame and trans!! The engine was likely rebuild and re-painted sometime post WWII as new findings indicate, more on that later!

Removing the floor was a job. Several findings indicate the rubber floor mat not original to the car. IT IS a very old replacement though. Thanks to my friend Michael whom pointed out the floor pans were replaced long ago. Sheet metal appears to be welded over the original pan or replaced all together. The driver side floor has rust corrosion that will likely need attention down the road. Metal battery cover appears to be the factory original. Both foot pedals appear to be from a later Ford, circa 1938. Toe boards may be the original, grommets are rotten. I find the foam sound damping an interesting take on top of the trans. This will have to be replaced or corrected to what the factory had originally. Transmission may have had a service performed years ago, or the engine pulled and painted. Both do not match in color. Universal joint cover and speedo cable look to be in good condition. Gasket will need replaced, leaking bad! Pulled the inspection plate on the trans to inspect the clutch assembly.

YOUTUBE VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCISbnxCkzk

Jon

[Ketronj281989]

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Jon