Steering Support on a 30 Roadster

[spinelll]

I've been the laughing stock at my club for the past few months because I've been unable to install that additional steering column bracket. On a '30 roadster, the dash rail does not come out simply by removing the 3 bolts on the dash and the 2 small screws on each end of the dash.


So today, a buddy with sedan came over to help me and guess what? Now he's a laughing stock too.


Then another buddy stopped by and said that on my car, you have to remove the windshield, the lower stanchions and that lead spacer before the dash rail can be removed. Also, on a 30 roadster, the bolts that are used for the bracket are not supported by caged nuts as they are on a 31.

Does all of that sound right? Do I have to replace the lead spacers?

Leo

[MAG]

Just installed the Steering Support on my '30 Roadster and the nuts were caged. Did not remove the windshield or the filler panel under it. Installed in just minutes.

[Keith True]

If somebody used rubber washers behind each screwhole they will keep things attached like a barnacle.

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by MAG

Just installed the Steering Support on my '30 Roadster and the nuts were caged. Did not remove the windshield or the filler panel under it. Installed in just minutes.

Were all the 30 roadsters caged in that spot? Would early or late matter?
I supposed I could loosen one bolt and try it. What's the worst case? If it

doesn't tighten up I'm back to removing the whole shebang anyway, no?


Leo

[spinelll]

Ok, so the good news is that the nuts are caged.

But when I positioned the bracket flush up against the underside of the dash rail, there's a huge cap between the bracket and the steering column (See attached). That can't be right. If I attach the bottom clamp to that bracket, I'm gonna drive the original (lower) bracket right into the gas tank.

This can't be that difficult.

Leo

[Keith True]

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It's not difficult.You just have to get a little creative.Body may have settled,may have been set a little low when /if restores,little tweak in the frame,could be a dozen things.I had to shim mine down about 1/4.On my friends car we had to shim one side,the support wanted to ride over to one side.It was either tear the car down to the frame to put it back to factory specs,or make up a shim.We went for the shims.

[Keith True]

When I say shim it,I mean between the late design column support and the cowl rail.To drop it down to meet the column tube properly.If you take the time to shim it right you will have a nice even gap all the way around the original clamp on the tank,without the column touching anywhere.

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by Keith True

When I say shim it,I mean between the late design column support and the cowl rail.To drop it down to meet the column tube properly.If you take the time to shim it right you will have a nice even gap all the way around the original clamp on the tank,without the column touching anywhere.

I appreciate your input.


Shim with what material? That's at least a 3/4" gap. If I try to make that up under the rail I'm gonna hit the lower lip. What if I bolt the bracket to the rail as is and make up the difference on the column? Even that's gonna be nasty. I'm talking about 3/4" of hard rubber or more likely, multiple strips of rubber (Truck tube?).



And here I thought I was looking at a 10 minute job.



Leo

[Synchro909]

Can you close the gap by loosening the bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis? Don't forget to retighten them!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd use an oak board for the shim.

[RandyinUtah]

Do what Synchro says. I had the same situation with my 30 Roadster and it worked out just right without the shims. in

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Can you close the gap by loosening the bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis? Don't forget to retighten them!

Thank you Synchro


If I did that and forced the column up towards the dash, wouldn't that place upwards pressure on the existing bracket and thus the gas tank?


Leo

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'd use an oak board for the shim.

Thanks Tom


The area under the dash is not actually flat, right? It has a radius to it. Are you suggesting, for example, that I shave down a some 1X1 oak stock and try to match the radius?


Leo

[Russ/40]

There are a number of threads you can find by the search function that gives detail examples how others have done it. Like most modifications you need to get creative.

Start over.
First I would take a file or sanding disk to smooth the surface of the new column drop. The repos are ugly. Do it now, or you will hate the look of it forever.
Second, keep in mind there is a little slop in the holes of the frame so some column positioning is possible without adding stresses to the installation.
Third, you will need to shim the attachment to the cross rail.
Fourth, plan to position the column with 1/4 inch space between it and the original support bracket.
This will give a nice clean appearance to the overall installation. When you have finished the new bracket installation, you can put spacers between the original mount and it's bottom half of the bracket, so the column supported by the new bracket will float in the original bracket without touching anywhere. All contact and support will be carried by the new bracket.
Fifth, loosen the steering box at the frame, just enough to be able to move the steering column. Let the column drop enough to install the new bracket with rubber gasket on the column. Push the column up to within 1/4 inch of the originaltank bracket. Now observe the new bracket position relative to the cross rail and determine how much shim is necessary between the new bracket and the cross rail.

Accomplish this and come back for the last part. Making the shim and establish bolt attachment.

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by spinelll

Thank you Synchro


If I did that and forced the column up towards the dash, wouldn't that place upwards pressure on the existing bracket and thus the gas tank?


Leo

If you have an early tank, the support bracket is about 3/8" longer than the later ones. The bracket that attaches to the dash rail replaced the tank-mounted support in late 1930.

http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/gastan...31gas_tank.pdf (See Fig. 10).

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Can you close the gap by loosening the bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis? Don't forget to retighten them!

Is it the two nuts astride the pitman arm?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by spinelll

Is it the two nuts astride the pitman arm?

Yup, the ones that go through the chassis near the pitman arm. If you can't get enough "wriggle room" that way, I've seen the holes elongated. Like I said, don't forget to do them up again.

[Kencmcg]

Since this is to be a permenant change, you could also cut the original off close enough to the tank so as to miss the column altogether.

[History]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'd use an oak board for the shim.

This is what I used, worked great and it will flew to match the curve of the dash rail.

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by Kencmcg

Since this is to be a permenant change, you could also cut the original off close enough to the tank so as to miss the column altogether.

Many have fuel seepage around the original tank mounted bracket. You really don't want sparks anywhere near there!