Gas Shut Off Valve

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I am the process of rebuilding a few gas shut off valves. The old ones I took apart have a steel washer, a spring, and a fiber washer in them. I purchased a rebuild kit, and all it contains is a nut, lockwasher, seal, and some lube. Were these other parts not original, (washers and spring), and added previously by someone else, or is it that not all the parts are available in the kit. If the spring was not original, what held the turning part of the valve tight in the taper to prevent leaks? See in the picture at the red circled the parts that I am referring to..... Thanks for any and all help, Jim

[Russ/40]

Jim, where's that big hole in your bench top go? Is that where all the long lost parts enter into another dimension?

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Actually, that's a hole I made to mount my router under to bring the bit above the table, but you would really be surprised how handy it is. It gets used a lot, from driving out stubborn roller pins to hooking a pair of hold down pliers to.

Any thoughts on my gas shut off problem........

[1931 flamingo]

Can you re-use the spring (looks like a wave washer to me)?? Nothing to lose by re-using. Wonder what's inside a re-pop??
Paul in CT

[Ian in Mississauga]

Spring is original. Part A-9194 according to the"Parts Price List".

[Russ/40]

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Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

Any thoughts on my gas shut off problem........

Took mine apart, and there was no spring. Mine had a graphited cotton seal then a thick ( as thick as the seal ) felt washer, two steel washers, and then the cap, handle, lock washer and brass nut.

[Bassman/NZ]

I tried a kit and it was hopeless, so I bit the bullet and bought a whole new valve.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Just did my valve..... I had the parts in my friends carb cleaner machine overnight doing its sloshing thing. Polished both contact points with fine scotch bright pads and assembled. Re-used the steel washer, and the spring as these are not available. I wonder why? I'll put it on the car next week, let's hope it works. Too bad there is no way to test them before they go on the car....

[Pilotdave]

Jim, I know nothing about rebuilding the shutoff valves, but do have a suggestion about testing them before installing in the car. Why not rig up a 5 gallon bucket with a threaded female part to mimic the threads in the bottom of the gas tank, thread in the rebuilt valve and fill the pail with water. If it holds, you're good to go - yes?

[Russ/40]

I just don't see what benefit there is to having the spring. With the components that were in mine, the seal is made by compression tightening the cap. Much as a water pump seals. The spring actually puts force toward pulling the taper out of the housing. Am I not seeing something?

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Russ, check post #5, the spring is original, and it pushes the valve into the tapered body to form part of the seal. The lead or composite seal would not have to work as hard. I cannot see how it would work, not leak, without the spring.

As for, "The spring actually puts force toward pulling the taper out of the housing", the spring goes in under the cap and pushes in, not under the valve to push it out. Jim

[Joop]

You need to have some pressure on the valve by using air pressure. Chuck up the valve to your air compressor and put it in water.

[Bill Steiner]

I agree with Bassman, I think a new valve is the best way to go. Bill

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

Russ, check post #5, the spring is original, and it pushes the valve into the tapered body to form part of the seal. The lead or composite seal would not have to work as hard. I cannot see how it would work, not leak, without the spring.

As for, "The spring actually puts force toward pulling the taper out of the housing", the spring goes in under the cap and pushes in, not under the valve to push it out. Jim

My eyes have been opened! Dugh

[Gord. B by the bay]

Jim get a tube of extra fine valve grinding compound and lap it in well the lapping of th core and body stops the leak. Gord. B by the Bay

[Russell in Tulsa]

Jim, A column of water approx. 29" tall exerts a pressure of one pound at the bottom. How tall is the "A" tank to the carb? I don't know as I haven't measured it. How simple to get a length of pipe, any diameter by the way, and put a fitting on the bottom that accepts the fuel shut off valve and use gasoline for a test, not water , because the viscosity of water and gas are so different.
The valve would hold on a water test but fail miserably on a gas test. A quick and cheap test rig that could be secured to a stud in the workshop or workbench leg and left for the next time you wanted it. Tell your club members you have the ultimate gas valve test rig and surprise them how simple and cheap it is. Build one and let us know the results.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Gord. B by the bay

Jim get a tube of extra fine valve grinding compound and lap it in well the lapping of th core and body stops the leak. Gord. B by the Bay

I used white tooth paste. The valve parts are polished and minty clean!

[Ron in Quincy]

Berts in Denver have new valves listed for the shut off if your valve is badly worn. Tou need to measure yours as there are two different sizes.

I use a mild valve grinding compound and hone the body and valve for a good positive seat of the valve. In view my shutoffs are early 28 I had no other choice.

The spring and thrust washer are original; I did use the kit Berts sells when rebuilding my shutoffs.

Ron