1935 Tudor Springs

[CA Victoria]

Lots if info out there for our EFV8s. What I was wondering if there is a definitive method of evaluating springs? Seems like the effectiveness of a spring is based on the temper of the steel.
I’ve heard of NOS springs being installed and the car “standing up” to factory position.

Is there a body to ground measurement or spring measurement?
Or how are they evaluated...
While on the subject of springs is there any experience with re arching via re tempering?

Thank you in advance.

[Fe26]

Hi Tim,
There used to be a definitive method, we had measurement and data books listing various manufacturers and the springs they used and the setting specs. Those books would all be gone now.
The effectiveness of a spring is based on many things, the temper is the least important as the tempering heat range is quite narrow.
I think a body to ground measurement would be unreliable.

My advice would be to take your springs to a Spring maker or an Industrial or General Blacksmith who has a setting machine. They judge the reset by, eye, experience and luck.

I have experience in this work. A big furnace is needed along with a setting machine or jig, a big oil quenching bath, a Tempering furnace and the knowledge and skill to make it all work.
There is a method to reset a spring cold, but this is heavy laborious work, jarring to the hands and noisy on the ears. It's a thankless task and one to avoid.
Good luck.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

Lots if info out there for our EFV8s. What I was wondering if there is a definitive method of evaluating springs? Seems like the effectiveness of a spring is based on the temper of the steel.
I’ve heard of NOS springs being installed and the car “standing up” to factory position.

Is there a body to ground measurement or spring measurement?
Or how are they evaluated...
While on the subject of springs is there any experience with re arching via re tempering?

Thank you in advance.

tim, Year and body style?

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Kube

tim, Year and body style?

1935 Tudor Sedan, I'm betting. I might know the car.

[Ol' Ron]

If your concerned with ride quality, another factor is the shackle angle. This has ab effect on the weight the spring sees during the movement of the axle. When the shackle is vertical the intire weight of the car including the axle is affecting the spring action, even the smallest movement of the axle. The Shock absorber is then the item of ride quality. I use the mid 70's/80;s Chevel 70/30 shocks. Unfortunately the vertical shackles donot prevent body sway and a track bar is necessary. . Light spring weights are prefered and a roll bar is included ib this system.
Ford started using this from th late 30's up, starting in the Lincolns.

[CA Victoria]

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Seth- Yes you do.
It has been a fun adventure. Having Brassworks re core the radiator. Once I get it back on the road I will focus on springs, brakes, and the Columbia.

1935 Tudor Sedan

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

Seth- Yes you do.
It has been a fun adventure. Having Brassworks re core the radiator. Once I get it back on the road I will focus on springs, brakes, and the Columbia.

1935 Tudor Sedan

You're going to have that car in impeccable shape. If we lived close by I'd stop in and see the progress. I can imagine you have a nice shop space to accomplish your work.

[CA Victoria]

Hopefully one day, i will be able to drive out and visit.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

Lots if info out there for our EFV8s. What I was wondering if there is a definitive method of evaluating springs? Seems like the effectiveness of a spring is based on the temper of the steel.
I’ve heard of NOS springs being installed and the car “standing up” to factory position.

Is there a body to ground measurement or spring measurement?
Or how are they evaluated...
While on the subject of springs is there any experience with re arching via re tempering?

Thank you in advance.

Tim, Yes, there are specifications of the engineered ride height. I don't have all of them for a '35. However, to the TOP of the roof, you should have 68".
I'll keep looking as I know I have specs to the fender openings.
The cars were designed to sit quite level.
I do know from all of the '39 + '40 Fords I've restored, the factory spec is darn "right on the money" when my cars are completed.
I always install NOS springs.

As a side note of sorts, re-arcing is poop. I'm speaking specifically about "cold work" done by many spring shops. It's the poor man's way to bring a car back to spec - kind of / sort of. Problems with this method? The shops can't replicate the factory specs on the springs by simply hammering it in a press.
Proper re-arcing requires at minimum - heat treating. Post #2 goes a bit in to depth about spring manufacturing.
I always get a laugh when guys ask what width a spring should be.
Um, what width under what load?
My advice? Find NOS springs. They're out there. Typically around $175 each.

By the way, when I'd purchased my '36 roadster a couple of years ago, I'd soon thereafter swapped the springs with NOS. All four corners lifted approximately a full 2".
Now the car appears like it was designed to appear.
Plus, with all other chassis components replaced and / or rebuilt PROPERLY, the designed ride and handling characteristics are returned.

[CA Victoria]

Thanks Kube.
Good info.
I had ruled out the cold re arching but wasn't sure about the old forging method. I have been reading more about it and even with shipping cost NOS springs are a better value. I’m sure that after 85 years they aren’t what they should be.
I will keep looking for NOS springs.
Thank you,