Inner wheel bearing race on front spins in hub on 28 Tudor

[ahirt]

I have an inner race on front hub that needs to be pressed in, but once installed rotates freely in hub. I know for outer race you can buy an oversize race and have hub turned but I have not seen an over sized race for inner bearing. I have used loctite on inner race and it seems to be holding at least temporarily but I don't think that is proper answer.

Has anyone encountered this problem?

[Ron in Quincy]

Your condition indicates the previous race was also spinning. I have run into this condition some time ago.

My solution was to stake the race area, try to keep the stakes so the race, when installed ,will be centered; use some red lock-tight when installing the new race.

Others may have a different solution, but this worked for me.

Ron

[mike657894]

staking sounds like a good idea. if it were a large machine part. that are very expensive. it would be welded then turned back to stock size. i would tr staking and then if that doesnt work out contact local machine shops.

[MikeK]

You need an internal straight knurl tool, looks like this:

Run it lightly only on the final bearing race contact area.

[larrys40]

My first choice is to replace the hub and drum with a good unit, as the inner race sometimes spins as well. I always have drums hubs at least for front, but I have done a fix a couple of times for guys on a best effort basis .

Here's my take.... The hub got that way either from over tightening or running too loose , and the hub got enlarged out over time with that. There are 4 staked pressed in areas on the outer hub if you look at them. Since the hub is wallered out so to speak there's no guarantee there's any center anyway... So I thought one day lets just reverse the process.
I did that by putting the snout of the hub on the edge of the bench and giving each if the four an even wack with my large brass hammer. Not too much but enough to do the job, using the same force on all four flat depressed areas of the hub snout. Just make sure you give the blow on the side of the hub with each facing flat facing upward.
You will find the hub is pushed back in and the race will be tight. If anything it will be very tight. My recommendation for all steel drums is they are banded so if is not it should be.
Once banded it needs to be turned to get true. I've found once I've done this the drum has actually been close to true and took a minimal cut.
I would only attempt this with a drum that is so good at .035 or less you have some meat to work with. And also the guys are usually On the economical end till they can afford cast irons and a full brake job.

As I said I've had good success with it, and feel that either knurling or using an oversize race you are still dealing with a hub that is bent out if shape and not true anyway... So what seemed a fix that was worth a shot has done well for the handful if times I've done it

Again, my first choice is to use a suitable replacement hub/drum assembly
Larry Shepard

[Mitch//pa]

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Dimple it up real good with a pointy punch and use green locktite which is for bearing races.

[Dollar Bill]

Yours is not an uncommon problem. As mentioned, I have staked the spindle with a center punch/hammer to increase interference with bearing and apply high temp bearing mount for extra measure.

[Patrick L.]

Everyone scoffed at prick punching a hub when I first mentioned it. It is an old Ford fix from the 50s when they had issued with their new vehicles. It works fine, I was one that scoffed when a factory rep told me to do it.

Place two rows of punch marks equally around the hub, 6 to 8 in each row, then drive/tap in the cup.


That said, a good used hub should be readily available.

[Tim B.]

Another option is to pull the old race and measure the inside diameter of the hub where the race sits with some calipers and call Bert's to see if their oversized race kit will work. Tim

[Pete]

It never ceases to amaze me at the f***ing Mickey Mouse methods people will use to patch up a model A.
A front hub is one of the most critical parts on any car.
Punching or knurling can reduce the ammount of grip area on the
cup by up to 50%. No ammount of aerospace glue is going to help either.

This "patch up" attitude is why I avoid driving close to any antique car on the road.

[Dave in MN]

Well we know where Pete stands and I guess I am near his corner. If the worn hub were on my car, it would be slated for replacement before I put it back together after discovering it. When I set out on a long trip where I will be hundreds if not thousands of miles from home, I would find myself worrying about a breakdown and not enjoy the trip. I am not saying the proposed repairs described above will fail...I'm just not sure they won't. JMO.
Good Day!

ps; I have easy and quick access to replacement hubs so that fact enters into my opinion. I also am factoring the need to remove a brake drum from the worn hub and mounting and truing it to the replacement hub.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Dimple it up real good with a pointy punch and use green locktite which is for bearing races.

Yep, they've been fixed this way for as long as I remember and I've never heard of one failing.

Even the bearing store 5 miles away recommends the same repair for loose bearings, and I've been doing it since the 60's with complete success.

[Dennis Pereira]

I like a little adventure I think Dimple it up and drive slowly for a test . But I'm not at that point yet . Just thinking as a teen it would take a couple of days sometimes to go a 100 miles repairing on the drive .

[Garychinook]

Pete is on it. For the time and energy to R/R just put a new hub on and live life worry free. Geez.

Gary

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW: One (1) Repair Opinion:

I find that with so many "different" Model A owners reporting "different" past successful Model A repair experiences, not only for hubs, but "different" repair experiences on so many "different" Model A items, lots of their success depends upon:


1. The "different" actual condition of the Model A item to be repaired.


2. The "different" preparation, tools, and actual "different" detailed work provided for the Model A repair.

3. The "different" materials used to repair the Model A item.

Then from the "different" past successful experiences, one receives "different" opinions varying from Model A owner to Model A owner.


I find it very possible that every "different" opinion recommended for how to repair any Model A item could very well be based on a person's true and sincere past successful experience.

If so, just keep using and recommending the Model A repair that works best for you ....... it really can help everyone in more ways than one.