The Ford Barn

stude333 · 05-09-2020, 06:51 PM

any guidance on removing these rubber bearing with center shaft and outer 1/16 steel shell. the old are frozen in place. on one side I managed to remove the center shaft and drill out all the rubber and guts and am only left with the 1/16 thick outer shell. which is rusted in. on the other side I have been pounding on the end of the center shaft with a 5lb mallet for a couple hours it isnt budging. I also saturated everything in kroil on both sides. I thought of getting small increment drills to drill out the one with shell only. a real chore with a half inch drill by hand. please throw any help my way Thanks
Frankie

JSeery · 05-09-2020, 06:54 PM

Once the centers are out you can remove the outer shell by using a hacksaw blade to carefully cut through the wall and then driving it out. As you are seeing, they are not easy to remove without special tools.

Kube · 05-09-2020, 06:58 PM

Long ago, I'd taken a short center punch, 1/4" diameter and carved out the end to a "half moon". Once you'd pounded out the center, this carved out punch can be set between the metal skin and perch. I use a 2# hammer... the newly carved punch will "split" that thin sheel and peel it away from the perch. Once you have removed it, I'd suggest you run a .750" reamer through there just to be certain there are no burrs, etc. remaining.
Not a fun job but with a little patience and the proper tools, not really all that bad either.

Kube · 05-09-2020, 06:59 PM

JSeery types a lot faster than me

His method (post #2) is also a good one - tried and true.

stude333 · 05-09-2020, 07:01 PM

good tips so far guys i am encouraged....keep em coming
Thanks

JSeery · 05-09-2020, 07:27 PM

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Sounds drastic to me, but I've heard of people blowing the centers out with a torch!

Kube · 05-09-2020, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

Sounds drastic to me, but I've heard of people blowing the centers out with a torch!

Arggghhh!

Probably the same guys that grind down the outer shell of the new pin so if goes in easier.

Kerk · 05-10-2020, 07:11 AM

When it is out-- I then clean up the rusty hole with a piece of emery cloth wound around a piece of round stock with a slit in it to polish up the rusty hole then also polish the outside of the new replacement Pin and use the K R Wilson tool to press the new one in. Hope this helps. kerk

51woodie · 05-10-2020, 07:24 AM

The exhaust cutter bit for a “zip gun” will do the job the same as Kube described, as long as you have clearance for the tool.

Bored&Stroked · 05-10-2020, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

Sounds drastic to me, but I've heard of people blowing the centers out with a torch!

It depends on what you're doing. I've used use a regular MAP gas torch to get the old cloth material to burn out. Once I've managed to burn most of it, then the center shaft can more easily be knocked out. Then I try to use the half-moon punch type of deal to split the thin skin and get it to start to peel away from the housing. Sometimes it comes out without too much trouble, other times it seems to be dang near welded to the perch housing.

Then I always finish up with a big 3/4" drill bit and a big drill - and at a very slow speed go through the hole (not taking material out of the perch forging, but cleaning up the bore). These methods have always worked for me.

skidmarks · 05-10-2020, 09:00 AM

Adjustable reamer is safer then a drill bit and easier to control

DavidG · 05-10-2020, 12:25 PM

If there was rubber inside that means that they were replaced at least once previously as the originals were asbestos cloth lined and the rubber-lined ones were aftermarket. That suggests that careful attention should be paid to making sure there are no burrs in the bore once you remove the steel shell.

cas3 · 05-10-2020, 09:58 PM

i blow em out with an oxyacetylene torch after the stud and rubber or whatever is gone. works very well if you are good with a torch. the thin shell heats up so fast that the steel behind it has no chance of even leaving the slightest mark on it . gotta go fast, get all the way thru so you dont have to pre heat again, 2 seconds you're done. i learned from the old junk yard guy how to cut the sides off a nut without wrecking the threads when removing rear axle u bolts. keep the tip clean, keep moving, wonderful tool when you get good at it

stude333 · 05-10-2020, 10:04 PM

I had onewith rubber and one with the cloth and grooved shaft. the latter was much harder to remove. but the tips above were my savior. I ended up using a heavy slide hammer on the asbestos one and applying acetylene torch to the hangar body for about 5 minutes. one good whack from the slide hammer and it cam right out! this was after a couple hours of pounding with a 5 lb mallet no avail. then i used my sawzall w/ hacksaw blade to segment the shells and several small chisles & kroil. then finished with a 3/4 drill. Thanks guys...perfecto!!!

05-09-2020, 06:51 PM	#1
stude333 Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Bernardino Posts: 50	1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal any guidance on removing these rubber bearing with center shaft and outer 1/16 steel shell. the old are frozen in place. on one side I managed to remove the center shaft and drill out all the rubber and guts and am only left with the 1/16 thick outer shell. which is rusted in. on the other side I have been pounding on the end of the center shaft with a 5lb mallet for a couple hours it isnt budging. I also saturated everything in kroil on both sides. I thought of getting small increment drills to drill out the one with shell only. a real chore with a half inch drill by hand. please throw any help my way Thanks Frankie Last edited by stude333; 05-09-2020 at 06:59 PM. Reason: title messed up sorry

05-09-2020, 06:58 PM	#3
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 8,993	Re: [FONT="Arial Black"]1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal[/FONT] Long ago, I'd taken a short center punch, 1/4" diameter and carved out the end to a "half moon". Once you'd pounded out the center, this carved out punch can be set between the metal skin and perch. I use a 2# hammer... the newly carved punch will "split" that thin sheel and peel it away from the perch. Once you have removed it, I'd suggest you run a .750" reamer through there just to be certain there are no burrs, etc. remaining. Not a fun job but with a little patience and the proper tools, not really all that bad either. __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

05-09-2020, 06:59 PM	#4
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 8,993	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal JSeery types a lot faster than me His method (post #2) is also a good one - tried and true. __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

05-09-2020, 07:01 PM	#5
stude333 Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Bernardino Posts: 50	Re: [FONT="Arial Black"]1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal[/FONT] good tips so far guys i am encouraged....keep em coming Thanks

05-09-2020, 07:27 PM	#6
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Sounds drastic to me, but I've heard of people blowing the centers out with a torch!

05-09-2020, 06:54 PM	#2
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: [FONT="Arial Black"]1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal[/FONT] Once the centers are out you can remove the outer shell by using a hacksaw blade to carefully cut through the wall and then driving it out. As you are seeing, they are not easy to remove without special tools.

05-10-2020, 07:11 AM	#8
Kerk Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 642	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal When it is out-- I then clean up the rusty hole with a piece of emery cloth wound around a piece of round stock with a slit in it to polish up the rusty hole then also polish the outside of the new replacement Pin and use the K R Wilson tool to press the new one in. Hope this helps. kerk

05-10-2020, 07:24 AM	#9
51woodie Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Chelmsford, ON Canada Posts: 528	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal The exhaust cutter bit for a “zip gun” will do the job the same as Kube described, as long as you have clearance for the tool.

05-10-2020, 09:00 AM	#11
skidmarks Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: newark, delaware Posts: 3,735	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal Adjustable reamer is safer then a drill bit and easier to control

05-10-2020, 12:25 PM	#12
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal If there was rubber inside that means that they were replaced at least once previously as the originals were asbestos cloth lined and the rubber-lined ones were aftermarket. That suggests that careful attention should be paid to making sure there are no burrs in the bore once you remove the steel shell.

05-10-2020, 09:58 PM	#13
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,571	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal i blow em out with an oxyacetylene torch after the stud and rubber or whatever is gone. works very well if you are good with a torch. the thin shell heats up so fast that the steel behind it has no chance of even leaving the slightest mark on it . gotta go fast, get all the way thru so you dont have to pre heat again, 2 seconds you're done. i learned from the old junk yard guy how to cut the sides off a nut without wrecking the threads when removing rear axle u bolts. keep the tip clean, keep moving, wonderful tool when you get good at it

05-10-2020, 10:04 PM	#14
stude333 Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Bernardino Posts: 50	Re: 1935 rear wishbone shackle bearing removal I had onewith rubber and one with the cloth and grooved shaft. the latter was much harder to remove. but the tips above were my savior. I ended up using a heavy slide hammer on the asbestos one and applying acetylene torch to the hangar body for about 5 minutes. one good whack from the slide hammer and it cam right out! this was after a couple hours of pounding with a 5 lb mallet no avail. then i used my sawzall w/ hacksaw blade to segment the shells and several small chisles & kroil. then finished with a 3/4 drill. Thanks guys...perfecto!!!