Prep for first startup

[Floats]

Hi Guys,
I am getting ready to start my A after an engine rebuild.
My question. Once some oil is poured down the dizzy hole, how long does it take for it to make it's way to the bearings and how long will it stay there before leaking out into the sump.
I realise the quick answer is 'how long is a piece of string?'

Should I take my time, put some oil down the dizzy, replace the dizzy, put the rest of the oil down the filler tube, quick last check and then startup? Thus about 10 minutes or so after oiling the dizzy hole OR am I over thinking this?

I have been advised to turn the oil pump with an electric drill in order to get positive oil pressure befores startup. Is this really necessary?

Thanks
Chris

[DJ S]

You're over thinking it in my opinion. I pour a quart of oil down the distributor hole and the rest down the oil breather tube. Then I just start it up.

[Floats]

Tks dj,

[StoolBus]

You will also need a celebratory beverage to commemorate your hard work.


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[C26Pinelake]

Did you rebuild it or have it professionally rebuilt ? If professional, follow their instructions. Wayne

[Larry Jenkins]

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Originally Posted by StoolBus

You will also need a celebratory beverage to commemorate your hard work.


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We like "adult beverages" better..

[tbirdtbird]

As above.

"I have been advised to turn the oil pump with an electric drill in order to get positive oil pressure before startup."
This works on more modern vehicles but cannot be done on a Model A

[1crosscut]

If you want to make sure that there is oil flow before starting it leave the key off and crank it for 5 seconds two or three times and then turn on the fuel and key and start it up. A video of the 1st start is also nice.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

NO BIG DEAL, I'd just leave the plugs out, a couple of squirts of oil in each cylinder, spin it over several times, pop in the plugs & start it.
Bill W.

[Floats]

Thanks again Guys,
Thanks Tbird I also figured out that you could not turn the oil pump on an A.
Water pump now leaking between the casing and the rear bush, so there is no rush with the celebratory beverage as yet.
I am going to order a new leakless one and hope to get it before Christmas.

I bought an E Type wiper motor on E-bay a few weeks before Chrismas last year. It arrived in the counrty within a week, then took more than a month to clear customs plus another week to be delivered.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town

[a guy]

Please take time to brake in the engine before driving. My A "Shop" suggested and I followed a slow break in - Run one 1 Minute, shut off until engine cools, restart and double time, let cool and continue doubling time. Do this until you reach 30 minutes. Next step take to the road slow and easy with speed variation. Don't push over 35 miles per hour. Run 15 minutes and back to garage to cool down. Next trip you will be all set with a broken in engine with years of trouble free enjoyment. Good Luck!!

[Brentwood Bob]

You will need to check the head bolts after first run. It took numerous retightenings until the bolts stayed tight on my head gasket replacement.
The intake and exhaust bolts will need to be periodically checked from now on, just don't overtighten them, just snug.

[tbirdtbird]

an unusual break-in procedure.
Initially you are trying to seat the cam and lifters. The rings will take much longer.
An often recommended break-in is 1200 rpm (1/2 max rpm) for 30 min. We stop at 10 min briefly for a re-torque and again when we shut down at 30 min.
This method has worked for decades. Use whatever procedure you like

[Floats]

Thanks Gents,
New water pump on order, the original one has a crack in the casing, hence the leak.
Your advice and tips are much appreciated.