frozen '39 Tranny

[Clem Clement]

I'm messing with a 37 tranny with '39 gears that spent some time in the drink. I emerged it in 6 gallons of apple vinegar with great results on the surface rust. Where the gears meshed, not such good luck. I'm guessing the front and rear bearing are frozen in big time. It had a little time in a bit of Evapo-rust. No help. I may try emersion is that stuff. My bet is that this hunk of iron is only good for a anchor
Other ideas?

[mrtexas]

You have to leave evaporust at least overnight. Try Rust911, you can mix it up stronger and get the job done faster.

[Lawrie]

I have just saved the case only from a rusted hulk,
I oxy cut all the gears and shafts from it,
Lawrie

[PeteVS]

Cast iron cases are great when exposed to water. Hardened steel (the gears and all the other internal parts) rust like crazy. I took apart a trans that had water in it and the gear teeth looked like a kid's teeth after drinking Coke for two years and not brushing. Same thing applies to differentials.

[Offy 220]

I had a '39 toploader sitting behind my garage since the mid '80s'. An older rodder gave it to me and I never did anything with it. Last summer I decided to take it apart and it was completely full of rusty water and sludge! I drained what water and rust I could and removed the shift cover and poured in 5 gallons of molassis. I let it sit for about two weeks and I was able to get it apart with a long brass punch. Sad to say it had a 25t cluster LZ gear set but only the '78' case was useable.

[Marv]

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Try washing it out with soapy water and let it dry. Then fill it with a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid preferably type F and Acetone and let it set a week, and I think you will be able to get it apart without breaking anything.

[Clem Clement]

Thanks All. I'll try the acetone/atf mix

[tubman]

I second "mrtexas"'s advice. I posted the same thing on the other thread. I would try it before anything else because of it's non-destructive nature.

[Big-Foot]

If all else fails, flush all the oils out of it with lacquer thinner and let air dry. Then take it outside (very important) and fill it up with Muriatic Acid. The acid has never touched or etched steel in my experience but will attack (with surprizing vengence) any rust and corrosion. Leave for anywhere from 6 hours to a full day. Then flush with water and then WD40 to hold the flash-rusting at bay. Your transmission should be free at this point.
Note - Muriatic acid will attack any aluminum present immediately and will vaporize it. It will send up a cloud of gas that is not healthy to breath and also will attack any other steel or iron in the immediate area.
Below are pictures of what it did for a rusted tight spare tire carrier in only 20 minutes.