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Old 03-05-2013, 12:42 PM   #1
barnfind08
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Default 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

I want to learn something new today. have been trying to figure it out myself but have come to the realization i need your help. How do you turn on the domelamp on a 3W. The switch on the bottom of the dash on the left is for the dash lights. There is no switch on the B pillars like sedans. so how do i turn it on? Do you need a lamp with a switch integral to the lamp? thanks for your help.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:10 PM   #2
2tudors
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

I think there is a switch on the pillar.
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:05 PM   #3
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

Ford also had the dome light with a rocker switch built in.32 3W had them.I would think the 33-34 3W also.
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:18 PM   #4
DavidG
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

All North American '33-'34 coupes (3 and 5 window) had switches built into the outer rim of the lamp housing and no remote switch.

Sheldon,

With respect, '32 deluxe coupes shared the same dome lamp as the rest of the '32 closed cars (except the sport coupe which had no dome lamp and the other deluxe closed cars which had an oval dome) and a 'B' pillar-mounted remote switch.

Last edited by DavidG; 03-05-2013 at 07:58 PM. Reason: additional refinement
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:15 PM   #5
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

.Thanks for the correction David.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:02 PM   #6
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

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3wd switch is on the light itself like a 32, all the other bodies have the switch on the pillar next to the passenger door
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:49 PM   #7
David J
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

See if you have one like this in your stash . It's 33 but is the same . The rounded end of the rod points out and this is the actuating lever . The round plastic? part the contacts sit in is missing in the pic as I am using it as a pattern for a new one . The contacts get loose in it .
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:12 PM   #8
barnfind08
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

So david is the switch toggle the piece between the 3 screws? I had some dome lamps with switches and obviously some lamps for sedans. The dome lamps I have are ford but the switches are not like yours. Yours seem right. Thanks Fred
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:42 PM   #9
David J
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

Yes . The contacts are in the plastic part { missing in pics } that fits inside the little drum . The rod presses into this through the slot in the rim . The rotation of this makes-breaks contact = a crude switch . The little stuff is what had to be removed to get it out .
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:02 PM   #10
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

David,

I believe that there's another type possibly from a second supplier with a switch body that is more or less a cube. The toggle is a nickel plated die casting with little serrations on the outside edge. The housing, including the slot for the toggle looks identical to that in your photos. Similar to your example, the weak link in the switch is one side of it which is made of bakelite or something similar which over time swells causing a loss of switch function.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:09 PM   #11
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

FYI regarding switch location on '32 deluxe coupe (3-window).
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:33 PM   #12
David J
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Default Re: 33-34 3W domelamp quiz

The toggle on this type is a machined steel rod and has some type of black finish on it . Almost looks to be just black from heat treating - like many small parts on older guns . Definately not paint . This particular one is from a 33 5w from CA . The reason this is out is the light only worked when it felt like it . As I found out there is no simple fix . The bakelite thing was loose and not making contact all the time .
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David,

I believe that there's another type possibly from a second supplier with a switch body that is more or less a cube. The toggle is a nickel plated die casting with little serrations on the outside edge. The housing, including the slot for the toggle looks identical to that in your photos. Similar to your example, the weak link in the switch is one side of it which is made of bakelite or something similar which over time swells causing a loss of switch function.
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