The Ford Barn

700rpm · 07-10-2015, 08:49 PM

I don't have any history on this engine, but overall it looks pretty good. The center and front mains look OK, as do the rods. But the rear looks a little dodgy, especially the cap. What do you engine experts think? Can this babbitt be saved?

If not, given that the rest of the mains and rods babbitt looks good, what is an option here?

Kohnke Rebabbitting · 07-10-2015, 09:19 PM

How many shims do you have left at all 3 mains?

The babbitt has been replaced.

The rear cap has been running off center, which is not good.

What is the end play?

The rear main will leak if the shaft doesn't touch all the way around the bearing.

It would have to be hand scraped by some one that knowes what he is doing to see if it could be saved with what you have to work with.

To be safe, I would get new bearings.

Herm.

700rpm · 07-10-2015, 10:31 PM

Thanks Herm. I was hoping I'd hear from you. There was only one shim on the PS of the center main. No shims on the front main. The rear main had been removed before I got the engine, so I don't know anything about that. Babbitt on the rear looks like it has been melted or otherwise rearranged. I haven't miked anything and I haven't checked the end play. The crankshaft was loosened by the previous owner. I'm working on this more or less as a "put it back together and see if it runs" project. It isn't out of any car I own. I'm just playing with it. I could have it rebabbitted for about $500 by Bill Barlow, but I'm not sure I want to put a lot of money in a rebuild. It has non-adjustable tappets and probably needs at least one valve seat at #8. Money demand keeps growing, as happens on these things. On the other hand, I don't want to slop it together either. That's just not how I do things. If it needs a total rebuild, I'll look at the piggy bank and see if I can do that.

jetmek · 07-10-2015, 10:43 PM

looks pretty whipped...don't cheap out youll just hafta do the job twice

Kevin in NJ · 07-11-2015, 09:07 AM

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Some thoughts of going cheap and keeping that babbitt.

First check the crank center to the flywheel center and straightness. If it is out much then you are screwed. I believe up to .002" is what some guys are happy with, but if you check it and it is out a lot then it will just be problems and beat the rear main. If it is close enough then move to the next step. Otherwise, you are stuck with redoing the cranks and that means new babbitt.

Spend some time and money on getting the moving parts balanced. Have the crank and flywheel balanced. Get the rods equal weight at each end and the pistons close in weight.

The babbitt is not great, but it is in one piece. It could last a while or fail tomorrow. If you have the crank balanced and get the valves happier it will likely run decent for a while. This would not be super costly and get you on the road.

By balancing the roatating parts and getting the valves right you minimize the forces on the babbitt.

Anyway, just a thought.

07-10-2015, 09:19 PM	#2
Kohnke Rebabbitting Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524 Posts: 1,457	Re: Can this babbitt be saved? How many shims do you have left at all 3 mains? The babbitt has been replaced. The rear cap has been running off center, which is not good. What is the end play? The rear main will leak if the shaft doesn't touch all the way around the bearing. It would have to be hand scraped by some one that knowes what he is doing to see if it could be saved with what you have to work with. To be safe, I would get new bearings. Herm.

07-10-2015, 10:31 PM	#3
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,906	Re: Can this babbitt be saved? Thanks Herm. I was hoping I'd hear from you. There was only one shim on the PS of the center main. No shims on the front main. The rear main had been removed before I got the engine, so I don't know anything about that. Babbitt on the rear looks like it has been melted or otherwise rearranged. I haven't miked anything and I haven't checked the end play. The crankshaft was loosened by the previous owner. I'm working on this more or less as a "put it back together and see if it runs" project. It isn't out of any car I own. I'm just playing with it. I could have it rebabbitted for about $500 by Bill Barlow, but I'm not sure I want to put a lot of money in a rebuild. It has non-adjustable tappets and probably needs at least one valve seat at #8. Money demand keeps growing, as happens on these things. On the other hand, I don't want to slop it together either. That's just not how I do things. If it needs a total rebuild, I'll look at the piggy bank and see if I can do that. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

07-10-2015, 10:43 PM	#4
jetmek Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: albany Posts: 466	Re: Can this babbitt be saved? looks pretty whipped...don't cheap out youll just hafta do the job twice __________________ engine and component overhauls my specialty! Website- www.godevilgarage.com

07-11-2015, 09:07 AM	#5
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: Can this babbitt be saved? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Some thoughts of going cheap and keeping that babbitt. First check the crank center to the flywheel center and straightness. If it is out much then you are screwed. I believe up to .002" is what some guys are happy with, but if you check it and it is out a lot then it will just be problems and beat the rear main. If it is close enough then move to the next step. Otherwise, you are stuck with redoing the cranks and that means new babbitt. Spend some time and money on getting the moving parts balanced. Have the crank and flywheel balanced. Get the rods equal weight at each end and the pistons close in weight. The babbitt is not great, but it is in one piece. It could last a while or fail tomorrow. If you have the crank balanced and get the valves happier it will likely run decent for a while. This would not be super costly and get you on the road. By balancing the roatating parts and getting the valves right you minimize the forces on the babbitt. Anyway, just a thought.