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06-30-2015, 01:30 PM | #1 |
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Headlight Dilemma
I have an interesting problem with my headlights and horn. If the car has been sitting a while (completely turned off) neither the headlights or horn will work. To make them work, I have to start the car and then both the horn and lights work. I can then shut the car off and the lights and horn will continue to work properly. After sitting for a while, maybe a few hours, the problem returns. We have checked the wiring and all seems to be OK. The puzzling part is that there is 6 volts at the battery terminal on the generator when the failure occurs. Has anyone ever seen anything like this?
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06-30-2015, 02:04 PM | #2 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
When the lights are on and not working is there still 6V at the
BAT terminal on the generator? Bob |
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06-30-2015, 02:08 PM | #3 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
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06-30-2015, 02:42 PM | #4 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
The connection in the bale is dry needs the boost of the added generator or engine vibration to make contact.
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06-30-2015, 02:58 PM | #5 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
6 volts at the cutout on the generator is correct, but voltage doesn't mean much if the connections aren't clean and tight enough to carry at least 10 amps. Be sure the nuts and wire terminals inside the terminal box are clean and tight.
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06-30-2015, 03:29 PM | #6 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
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06-30-2015, 03:53 PM | #7 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
when the lights are not working check to see what your missing power or ground.. then trace the circuit out with this schematic to fiind the problem... it is very simple to do
with my power probe it's even easier Last edited by Mitch//pa; 06-30-2015 at 04:15 PM. |
06-30-2015, 04:00 PM | #8 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
When the lights are not working, I have 6 volts at the cutout, 6 volts at the terminal in the light switch. The lights are grounded. Nothing seems to have changed from when the lights don't work to when the lights work. My brother is an electrical engineer and he is stumped. Very confusing.
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06-30-2015, 06:57 PM | #9 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
Also check the nuts on the rear of the ammeter. It must be a common power source for both the lights and horn to fail together. When it fails, see if you still have 6 volts at the cutout while pushing the horn button.
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06-30-2015, 07:18 PM | #10 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
Thanks, Tom. Will check tomorrow and report back
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06-30-2015, 08:18 PM | #11 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
In support of what Tom posted, might I suggest instead of using a test light or a meter you use a HIGH RESISTANCE test light such as a 6 volt Headlight bulb.
This will eliminate high resistance connections giving you false "Positive" readings. Go to the various points mentioned earlier and test with the high resistance test lamp and you might get VERY different results. |
06-30-2015, 09:08 PM | #12 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
Do you have one of those CHEEP, TROUBLESOME fuse holders at the starter switch, they're known to make FUNKY connections at times!!
WHY doesn't some SUPPLIER step up & supply a REALLY good one, or a REALLY good, easy to install CIRCUIT breaker to mount there?? Those SILLY fuse holders have been around FOREVER & are often the cause of electrical FAILURES!!! Bill W.
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07-01-2015, 05:12 AM | #13 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
No fuse holder
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07-01-2015, 07:57 AM | #14 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
Made a test light. Found that the connection at the cut-out was corroded. Cleaned up the connection and the lights work. Thanks to everyone for the tips.
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07-01-2015, 08:28 AM | #15 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
great ,,,told ya it was easy
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07-01-2015, 09:19 AM | #16 |
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Re: Headlight Dilemma
Sometimes we make a BIG DEAL out of a SIMPLE problem. It always seems WORSE & more MYSTERIOUS, when it's on YOUR OWN CAR!!-----"MY CAR'S NOT SUPPOSED TO BREAK"
Chief taught me to be "NOSEY"----First, just "LOOK"AROUND"---Look at things that get the MOST wear/tear/abuse/corrosion/etc. Lots of times, you'll SEE the problem----Use COMMON SENSE---Like, if it's runnin' BAD, it's NOT because the rear end is LOW on 600W Bill W.
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