Aluminum hubs - why do I care

[Heard]

In looking at some of the disc brake kits, I notice some of them have aluminum hubs. Why do I care about this? Is there some advantage to an aluminum hub I'm not aware of? Obviously, it would be lighter, but so what?

[Marv]

Originally Posted by Heard

In looking at some of the disc brake kits, I notice some of them have aluminum hubs. Why do I care about this? Is there some advantage to an aluminum hub I'm not aware of? Obviously, it would be lighter, but so what?

Being lighter would they stop quicker and take less power to get them moving, and possibly increase gas mileage just a hair.

[Heard]

Maybe....but I'm not sure they would be about $150 better. Possibly....I just don't know. That is what I'm trying to find out. If there is some compelling reason to spring for the extra $150, fine, but if it is just so I can say they are 'billet' (love those buzz words) aluminum, I don't think so.

[TJ]

The advantage to an aluminum hub is you can change the rotor easier. Most discs have the rotor and hub as one piece ,so when the rotor goes so does the hub. With the aluminum hub the rotor bolts to the hub and can be changed easier. They are lighter weight also, but on an old Ford that does not make that much difference. Generally the kits with the aluminum hubs are more costly to buy. I prefer the standard kits that use over the counter rotors. If you have a problem on the road they are easily replaced at your local parts store. As much as we drive these old cars you would be hard pressed to wear out a standard type rotor.

[1963turnerjohn]

The alloy hubs remove weight from the suspension. ( unsprung mass ) . On sport cars and road race cars this is advantageous - on 40/50s American cruisers - certainly not required. I would prefer cast iron or steel hubs.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Heard...Since you asked, I see no substantial benefit AT ALL for an aluminum hub. Softer than steel, and I just can't get a warm-n'-fuzzy over using aluminum for THAT type of a service part.

I love that little car you're doing. It really has an "old and traditional" vibe about it. MY opinion (for what little that is worth)...please don't put disc brakes on that little jewel. Invest in new, FRONT Bendix backing plates and replacement drums from MT Products with 2" shoes and that thing WILL stop. Refresh the existing Lockheed brakes in the back...it'll all work TOGETHER. Contact Jim Pullen (19Fordy) and ask him how well his MT brakes have worked on his '40 coupe. New 2" Bendix brakes on the front of that thing will lock those wheels up just as well as any discs. I had to vent. Love that car! Do it justice. DD

[Heard]

All of this makes sense to me. Thanks for the input. Sounds like a bunch of marketing hype for this application.

[V8COOPMAN]

Heard...Click this link...nice stuff that BOLTS-on. DD

http://www.mtcarproducts.com/productsgrid.html

[1963turnerjohn]

V8COOPMAN 's advise is right on the money !

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Heard

In looking at some of the disc brake kits, I notice some of them have aluminum hubs. Why do I care about this? Is there some advantage to an aluminum hub I'm not aware of? Obviously, it would be lighter, but so what?

Biggest advantage is UNSPRUNG weight.
Obviously not an advantage in your application.
No reason for disc brakes in your application either but
you are going to put them on because you like them. It's all priorities.

[Uncle Bob]

One other consideration for some of the aluminum hubs out there is offset. Typically you can "save" somewhere around 5/8" each side. For some that's important to get the "right" look on wheel placement within the fender. Or if there's a custom wheel choice you might need the clearance. The vendor should know if that's one of the features of what they are selling.

[sanborn]

It all depends on "what you want". I used the Wildwood setup because of the billet hub, the additional backset and because I have used Wildwood products on our race cars for years----they produce a good product but more expensive.

[34billct]

Remember it's the rubber on the road that stops the car, all brakes will (should) lock all four wheels, mechanical. hydraulic. drum or disk.

[scrapiron]

Another reason, I'm sure, from a suppliers standpoint, is that alloy is easily machined. Also no patterns and casting to bother with.

[Heard]

Originally Posted by scrapiron

Another reason, I'm sure, from a suppliers standpoint, is that alloy is easily machined. Also no patterns and casting to bother with.

And they are charging more for it. Hadn't thought of this angle.

Hey, thanks everyone. Great input and it answered my questions. BTW, I have decided to stick with drums instead of disc.

[TJ]

As an alternative you can use the brakes from the 53-56 F-100 pickups. They will bolt to the 37-48 spindles and work best with the 42-48 spindles. All you need to do is make an inner bearing and seal change.

[PeterC]

While you are thinking above the $$value - why disc? I have hydraulic set up with stock drums on my 35 and it stops on a dime – just curious

Originally Posted by Heard

Maybe....but I'm not sure they would be about $150 better. Possibly....I just don't know. That is what I'm trying to find out. If there is some compelling reason to spring for the extra $150, fine, but if it is just so I can say they are 'billet' (love those buzz words) aluminum, I don't think so.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

One other consideration for some of the aluminum hubs out there is offset. Typically you can "save" somewhere around 5/8" each side. For some that's important to get the "right" look on wheel placement within the fender. Or if there's a custom wheel choice you might need the clearance. The vendor should know if that's one of the features of what they are selling.

Uncle Bob you say the offset is 5/8,Im assuming the wheel is moved inward towards the center of the car.If that's true that's what I need.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Another benefit with aluminum hubs is that it dissipates the heat much better.

[Karl Wolf]

Cast iron holds a wheel bearing race more securely...
My opinion.

Karl