10-01-2012, 12:54 AM | #1 |
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Shocks
Now that I have the Tachometer problem fixed its time to move on to the next project. Has anyone here used Snyders tube shock kit? Is it hard to install and how is the ride? I presently have no shocks at all...thanks
dusty |
10-01-2012, 07:52 AM | #2 |
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Re: Shocks
Dusty you can get a great set of rebuilt shocks for about the prices you pay for the tube ones and they look great and ride good Call John Holland up near Akron Ohio and talk to him. Phone call isnt a lot.1 330 483 3896
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10-02-2012, 09:32 PM | #3 |
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Re: Shocks
I haven't used Snyder's, but I do have modern tubular shocks in mine. I have Ken Davis's kit and am very happy with it. http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html Keep in mind, you will get a notably stiffer ride with tubular shocks.
Like you, I ran for a while with no shocks...what a nightmare. I would have liked to put in original style shocks, but would have needed to buy, not just the shocks, but all the linkages.
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10-02-2012, 10:36 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Shocks
Quote:
$325.00 for the Snyder's shocks and they are hydraulic. Would the hydraulic be better than the gas? also how hard where they to install? Also do you know if Kens shocks are gas or hydraulic, man the price is right. thanks dusyt |
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10-02-2012, 10:44 PM | #5 |
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Re: Shocks
Ken Davis tube shocks are what I use. I think they are great, and won't break the bank. See link in post #3
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10-02-2012, 11:31 PM | #6 |
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Re: Shocks
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10-03-2012, 07:53 AM | #7 |
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Re: Shocks
I had the problem too. I'm working with 46/48 backing plates so I fitted a piece 2"X2"X 1/4" angle iron as a lower shock bracket. You will have to grind a radius with a full size 7" angle grinder about 3/4" into the piece. This radius accomodates the curve of the axle housing which allows for more "meat" around the bolts and allows you to tip the bracket 3 deg to forward so the top doesn't chafe the body of the shock. Locate and drill the 2 7/16 mounting holes(The two rear axle bolts) and a 5/8 bolt hole to mount the shock on the opposite flange. That is the main part to be fabricated. Go to your favorite bolt supplier and get 4 1 1/2 X 7/16 grade 8 bolts and 2 3"X 5/8 and 2 3 1/2 x 5/8 bolts, 6 5/8 nuts. ( I like tractor supply) When all that is done you can go to Auto Zone and get a pair of Monroe Gas-matic # 59017 shocks (I could not find hydraulics) You will need to drill a 5/8 hole in the back of the rear crossmember, at the top corner, Use the 5/8 X 3 1/2 with a nut on each side of the frame. I tack welded a nut on the bracket for the bottom bolt (3" X 5/8) Bolt the shocks on and away you go. I should also say that this system was in use on my coupe. I just copied it for my Town Sedan, Total cost for two rear shocks, About $50.
Terry Last edited by Terry, NJ; 10-03-2012 at 08:18 AM. |
10-03-2012, 08:36 AM | #8 |
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Re: Shocks
Hi Guys,
I have a question. Does anyone know the shocks of this company? http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp Are they better than the rest of Repro scrap because you can not even adjust? The price would be correct if the quality is right. Greetings Barney |
10-03-2012, 09:21 AM | #9 |
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Re: Shocks
How are your springs?
With no shocks and good springs then the car should feel like it will not hold the road much above 30 MPH. If the springs are dead then it will not bounce much and hold the road better. The front springs tend to be more of a problem than the rear. With the front you can kind of gauge the wear by the axle's position in relation to the front splash apron. From the factory photos you will find the front axle sits such that you will see about 1/2 the axle from the front with 1/2 hidden by the splash apron. More often you will find the axle very well hidden behind the front apron. What I have found is people with no shocks and the front axle settled way up behind the front apron do not seem to have issues with the car wanting to bounce off the road above 30 MPH. On the other hand, if the front axle is showing below the apron then the car is a nightmare to drive above 30 MPH. The bouncing off the road is personal experience with the cars in my family. The other cars are from all the local cars that I ask the people questions at the car shows, there are lots of cars with settled front springs to ask this question. When you look at the edges of your springs do you see orange rust dust? Orange rust is always a good clue of a loose part or lack of lubrication. If you see orange rust dust around the spring perch mount then you know you have a loose spring perch. For the spring that means the leaves are dry and will not work very good. |
10-03-2012, 09:51 AM | #10 |
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Re: Shocks
I have the Ken Davis on my pickup very happy with them,would not change,mine are several years old,I undrstand his newer version may have softer shocks ones on my pickup are or were red
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10-03-2012, 02:30 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Shocks
Quote:
I would scratch those KD shocks and see what color they were originally! My Monroes were yellow and I painted them black, maybe you can find a number on them some where. Probably Monroe or Gabriel. Terry |
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10-03-2012, 02:35 PM | #12 |
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Re: Shocks
The ones he sells now are blue. But I painted mine black.
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10-03-2012, 02:55 PM | #13 |
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Re: Shocks
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10-03-2012, 05:54 PM | #14 |
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Re: Shocks
The rear shocks in the Snyder kit work well on my roadster and they are a good installation. The fronts I don't use because of a hard ride. I replaced them with rebuilt originals and the total ride is much better.
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10-03-2012, 11:51 PM | #15 |
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Re: Shocks
Hi there,
I would like to ask again: Does anyone know this company? http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp The company is located in Oregon. Someone's coming from there? Member "shuttlebuggy" and I would like to know more about this company. Maybe someone has already experienced. Thanks and best regards, Barney |
10-04-2012, 12:05 AM | #16 |
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Re: Shocks
2 years ago I had them rebuild my set of originals and have been extremely pleased with the results. I would recommend them.
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10-04-2012, 02:05 AM | #17 |
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Re: Shocks
I talk to Ken tonight and he seems to be a very knowledgeable guy, I order a set of his shocks. I just don't think I can go wrong with the price, can't wait to get them on and give the ole girl a try before the snows flies.
thanks to all that helped dusty |
10-05-2012, 07:18 AM | #18 |
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Re: Shocks
I think they were red,will need to do scratch to be positive,probably his first generation,but most that ride or drive truck thinks its great little stiff for wife but she had knee replacement Monday maybe she can ride in it again but still is a model a
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10-05-2012, 07:24 AM | #19 | |
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Re: Shocks
Quote:
IMHO, you would be better off buying properly rebuilt originals. |
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10-05-2012, 04:33 PM | #20 |
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Re: Shocks
One recommendation I forgot to mention earlier.
When putting Ken's shocks in the rear, I found that the original nuts that secure the bolts through the backing plates on my '30 Coupe have a built-in spacer to fit into a tapered recess. The nuts that came with Ken's kit didn't, and the new bolts are a different thread, so you can't reuse the old nuts (If I remember correctly - originals: fine-thread, new ones: coarse-thread). I made some small spacers to compensate. I would strongly recommend that you take the time to get longer bolts the same thread as the originals, drill a cotter pin hole through them, and reused the original nuts. That being said, I'm very happy with Ken's shock kit and would definitely do it again. Ken (no relation...)
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