headers for 50's style hot rod 32 roadster

[dad's deuce roadster]

The engine build for our 32 rod continues. I am interested in any information concerning an appropriate set of headers and also best ideas for the full exhaust. The engine is a 8BA.

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by dad's deuce roadster

The engine build for our 32 rod continues. I am interested in any information concerning an appropriate set of headers and also best ideas for the full exhaust. The engine is a 8BA.

How about Reds Headers.
Phil NZ

[RalphM]

Or Fentons.

[dad's deuce roadster]

Thanks both, I'll look into them.

[Krylon32]

I've used Speedways Y type headers on a couple 32's with stock style steering boxes and am using Fenton's on my latest deuce roadster with Vega steering. Also used Sanderson's on a few customer cars.

[john worden]

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You will need to decide if you want headers to route within the frame rails or exit the engine compartment over the frame rails with by-pass tubing routing down and under the frame and then through mufflers. Will you run without a hood, half hood or full hood? Cut hood to clear headers?
Pictured headers are by Sanderson with by-pass built but not fitted.
The choices are many.

Flatties don't produce an obnoxious exhaust note but rather a unique sound.
I like the exhaust running through unbaffled glass packed mufflers that tone it down a bit without killing the unique sound.
Flaunt the flattie I say!

[Tim Ayers]

Google Fentons in the '32 with stock steering. IIRC, I don't believe they fit.

[Bored&Stroked]

The most common style of headers (within the frame rails and under the car) are the 'Belond Style' of headers - which Red's has. Red's makes a good product, but in my mind you'll want to customize them and make them better. Everybody seems to have copied the Belond headers from the 50's - with no turn-downs, no flanges, etc -- which makes no sense in my mind.

One thing that I always do is modify these style of headers and add 2-bolt flanges to the ends of them - so that I can easily attach/bolt on the pipes that go to the mufflers. Also, I usually add 90 degree "turn downs" onto the ends of the headers - such that I can easily route the exhaust under the frame rails (and to the sides or out the back). So, given that I'm going to modify them, I don't order them coated and I do all the TIG welding and routing of the exhaust system before I even think about coatings. You'll find that if you invest some time into making it easy to take them on/off (same with the complete exhaust system in general), you'll be very glad you did later on!

Don't make the mistake of trying to use a 'slip fit' set of extension pipes that slide over the as-delivered headers (with u-bolts to clamp them on) - as if you even manage to clamp the slip-fits tight enough to not leak (which is a problem unto itself), you'll play Hell ever getting them to "slip back off".

Ask me how I know these ugly things! LOL>

[Charlie ny]

I used the cheapo Speedway center dump headers. I did not split the wishbone on my
'32 p/up and with a little creativity made them work. I'm using a '48 truck steering box.
I really like the look of the center dumps....all business.

FYI I placed the battery, '53 Olds long boy ,in the front of the bed so no issues there.
Home brew head pipes and Toyota p'up mufflers
Charlie ny

[solidaxle]

You need to consider what steering box you are going to use. The Fentons that I have do not clear the stock "32" box.

[tubman]

I bought a set of cheap stainless center dump headers for use on my engine stand. IIRC, they were just over $100. The headers are great, but they came with metric mounting hardware! After replacing all of the bolts they fit fine. (I did have to use socket head bolts in a couple of tight places, but other than that, I like 'em.)

[Tim Ayers]

For those with tight bolt head clearance issues, they sell reduced size head header bolts. I have to use one on the headers Zac Suhr fabbed up for my roadster. No way would a full sized headed bolt work without dimpling the tube; which I did not what to do.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

For those with tight bolt head clearance issues, they sell reduced size head header bolts. I have to use one on the headers Zac Suhr fabbed up for my roadster. No way would a full sized headed bolt work without dimpling the tube; which I did not what to do.

Right. However, the local hardware store had socket heads, but no header bolts. Plus, it's an engine test stand.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tubman

Right. However, the local hardware store had socket heads, but no header bolts. Plus, it's an engine test stand.

Yeah, my comment was more of general FYI... Sometimes you find out fitments/clearance issues once in the car.

[tubman]

The special header bolts are better. They are flange head, while socket heads are not.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tubman

The special header bolts are better. They are flange head, while socket heads are not.

Correct. Flange is the almost the same size of a normal size head... In this case, I need it for the 5/8" bolt above the steering box.