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12-02-2010, 05:16 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Geelong Australia
Posts: 119
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ring and pinion pitting
Dismantled our rearend ,found all bearings and races pitted ,ordered a new set of bearings, but ring and pinion also has some pitting ,how much is too much? i will try to get some pics or should i just get a new R&P set?,,
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12-02-2010, 08:11 AM | #2 |
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Location: Eastern Tennessee
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
The pits really isn't the problem as they will just hold oil. What you need to be looking for is tooth wear, and areas where the case hardening has been worn through. This means the metal will be softer and will begin to wear rapidly. BTW, pits are generally caused by lack of quality lubrication and/or water in the lube. This condition promotes "tooth decay".
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12-02-2010, 08:36 AM | #3 |
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Location: Van, Texas
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
Hi Brent. Serious "tooth decay" ultimately requires plastic teeth.
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12-02-2010, 12:18 PM | #4 |
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Location: Aptos, CA
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
If the teeth are still square on top you should be fine. Pits are like said before just places for more oil to hang out. In an A you'll be just fine for a very long time. I ran a severely pitted 3:78 in a Hot Rod model T with a 292 in front of it. It never made noise, and I broke the trans. Ford R&P are very tough even in less than perfect shape. A Hypoid set up though has to be very clean.
Tim |
12-02-2010, 12:59 PM | #5 |
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
The extent of the pitting and loss of hardfacing is the issue. Good photos are needed for a trustworthy answer to your question.
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12-02-2010, 03:14 PM | #6 |
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
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12-02-2010, 03:39 PM | #7 |
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
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12-02-2010, 07:50 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee, California
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
When I did my rear, it was very badly pitted. Thanks to a Fordbarner, I was able to get a good used gear set for a very reasonable price.
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12-02-2010, 07:54 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Aptos, CA
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
If you are replacing them look for a good used Ford set. They are match lapped from the factory and will be the smoothest and quietest.
Tim |
12-03-2010, 02:29 PM | #10 | |
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Location: Eastern Tennessee
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
Quote:
Roddy, I think if I were in your shoes, I would replace and then either order a 3.54 or 3.27 ratio. Both ratios do just fine in even the heaviest of Model A's. . |
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12-03-2010, 10:10 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Aptos, CA
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
If you look on the ring and pinions of a factory Ford set you will see an engraved mark or marks on both the ring and pinion. They are "signed" by the craftsman who assembled them. I have found this on the original sets I've pulled out of Banjos. I will look through my stack and see if I can take a picture of the engraved mark on one. This is a heated debate for many of us. I will always seek out a Ford set and will use them over a mix&match set every time. Some guys don't care, they do work. But if you can get an original matched set you're ahead. If you are changing ratios Bret is right on the money about a 3:27 or 3:54 it'll make a world of difference.
Tim |
12-03-2010, 10:19 PM | #12 |
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Location: Geelong Australia
Posts: 119
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Re: ring and pinion pitting
thanks for all the replies,,the 3.54 would be the best from what you have said ,taking this diff thing slow ,so it would be good to get it right ,
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